Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner

81 - 99 of 99 Posts

·
Registered
1991 VR4
Joined
·
1,090 Posts
No thermostat means the car would run cooler not overheat... you will just be flowing coolant the entire time rather than after the thermostat opens.

As i think was mentioned before its not that coolant necessarily provides better cooling properties (maybe marginally), but its that it has a lower freezing point and higher boiling point along with some other additives. Plenty of people run distilled water in their cars even if only temporarily.

If your coolant isn't flowing at all that suggests an issue with water pump. As long as you dont have any concerns with letting the car idle for a couple minutes (verify oil level, etc), then idle it with the coolant cap off and watch for circulation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #84
No thermostat means the car would run cooler not overheat... you will just be flowing coolant the entire time rather than after the thermostat opens.

As i think was mentioned before its not that coolant necessarily provides better cooling properties (maybe marginally), but its that it has a lower freezing point and higher boiling point along with some other additives. Plenty of people run distilled water in their cars even if only temporarily.

If your coolant isn't flowing at all that suggests an issue with water pump. As long as you dont have any concerns with letting the car idle for a couple minutes (verify oil level, etc), then idle it with the coolant cap off and watch for circulation.
Well I just put in a brand new thermostat so hopefully that doesn’t ruin it but will do, I’m going to add some coolant and see where it takes me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #85
No thermostat means the car would run cooler not overheat... you will just be flowing coolant the entire time rather than after the thermostat opens.

As i think was mentioned before its not that coolant necessarily provides better cooling properties (maybe marginally), but its that it has a lower freezing point and higher boiling point along with some other additives. Plenty of people run distilled water in their cars even if only temporarily.

If your coolant isn't flowing at all that suggests an issue with water pump. As long as you dont have any concerns with letting the car idle for a couple minutes (verify oil level, etc), then idle it with the coolant cap off and watch for circulation.
It’s flowing! So the coolant and radiator are good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
No thermostat means the car would run cooler not overheat... you will just be flowing coolant the entire time rather than after the thermostat opens.

As i think was mentioned before its not that coolant necessarily provides better cooling properties (maybe marginally), but its that it has a lower freezing point and higher boiling point along with some other additives. Plenty of people run distilled water in their cars even if only temporarily.

If your coolant isn't flowing at all that suggests an issue with water pump. As long as you dont have any concerns with letting the car idle for a couple minutes (verify oil level, etc), then idle it with the coolant cap off and watch for circulation.
I’m going to send you a video tonight or tomorrow of me revving it a little bit. I just revved it like 2 times right now to like 3k rpm and you could hear that noise but sounds just a little different. But it’s defiantly coming from the same spot near the belts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,257 Posts
With the car COLD, remove the radiator cap and start the car. You should see coolant flowing. This is also how you would "burp" the system.
You could run it briefly without coolant. ( 30 seconds). Also, I like the idea of the stethoscope from harbor freight. The noise seemed pretty loud through the exhaust. With a noise that loud you should be able to tell where it is coming from with the stethoscope. It will probably blow your ears out when you touch the right component. I would try near the water pump, intercooler piping, the oil pan, near the front and rear turbos. Now it sounds like a rotating component is torn up and swinging what is left around and binding a bit. Does not sound like it is in the lower engine. Put the scope on your valve covers as well. Maybe remove your valve cover cap to see if the noise changes. BTW, you can stick your ear on the end of a long screwdriver to do the poor man's stethoscope.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
I was filling it with water when it went down and it went down pretty quick that’s how I knew it was flowing
 

·
Registered
1991 VR4
Joined
·
1,090 Posts
I was filling it with water when it went down and it went down pretty quick that’s how I knew it was flowing
You need to do that a few times to make sure you get all the air out of the system. It needs to bleed/burp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
So today I fixed the idle and the noise went away with it which I’m thankful for so it sounds a lot better now, all I hear is the lights at idle, but I have a feeling it’ll probably come back when I rev it a little, I’ll confirm later. I ran into another problem sadly, it seemed that the coolant(distilled water only for now) wasn’t flowing. The car didn’t get to temp yet, is that why? Does it only start flowing when The car gets to the right temp? I turned it off before it did because I feared it would overheat assuming that it wasn’t flowing, and I only have water in it So I don’t want to run to for you long, the radiator seemed really but not like a burning hot maybe the radiator is clogged?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,257 Posts
So today I fixed the idle and the noise went away with it which I’m thankful for so it sounds a lot better now, all I hear is the lights at idle, but I have a feeling it’ll probably come back when I rev it a little, I’ll confirm later. I ran into another problem sadly, it seemed that the coolant(distilled water only for now) wasn’t flowing. The car didn’t get to temp yet, is that why? Does it only start flowing when The car gets to the right temp? I turned it off before it did because I feared it would overheat assuming that it wasn’t flowing, and I only have water in it So I don’t want to run to for you long, the radiator seemed really but not like a burning hot maybe the radiator is clogged?
The coolant does not flow until it gets hot enough to open the thermostat. Engines are more efficient when they run warm, so you don't want to start cooling right away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #98
So I let my car idle to temp for pretty much the first time today and I noticed quite a few things. Before cranking the car like with the key in and and on the on position, My A/C turned on with the radiator fan. After I start the car the fans turn off and the A/C keeps going. Is this normal? And I Read that one of the fans should be on if you’re A/C is going. Also when the car got to temperature I was looking down in the coolant to see if it would start circulating and it did but after another minute or two in idle It raised back up and starting filling the overflow my heater also wasn’t working. Keep in mind I have a brand new water pump, I either think it’s the radiator or a blown head but there was no smoke from my exhaust! So idk 😐 anyone??
 

·
Registered
1991 VR4
Joined
·
1,090 Posts
You can always rent a coolant system pressure tester from auto zone. Pump up the whole system to ~15-20 psi, let it sit, and make sure you don't lose any pressure. If the heater wasn't blowing warm air you might have air pockets and/or coolant is not reaching the core. Are you sure its not bypassed or something weird?

Also if you were pushing coolant into the overflow tank without overheating, your radiator cap could be shot. It happens when the seal deteroriates or the sping gets weak. Happened to me. Can always get a new cap, i am just running a duralast one.
 
81 - 99 of 99 Posts
Top