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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have a 91 Vr4 I recently acquired after my mint '96 SL was stolen and totaled :).
The interior and body are in great shape and I have acquired various parts to replace and get her back on the road.
Cylinder 2 has a spun bearing, so my friend and I got a 94 forged crank from an NA and we were gonna put it in with a new set of bearings.
I was going to get the crank machined when another friend got a 95 SL that was in rough shape back running and driving.
The tranny is roasted (doesnt shift into 3rd at all lol) so he offered to sell me the engine for $450.

So now I have this dilemma.

Do I buy the SL motor and swap it in?

I am thinking that while i have the Na motor in the VR4 I can build the TT motor because I'm just tired of not driving a 3000gt around lmao
I'm aware the 10.1 NA motor needs to have the oil pan modified in order to accept lines for the turbskis, it will also need the larger TT injectors.

what other issues will i run into swapping the na motor into the vr4?
will there be an issue with my car being a 91 and the motor being a 95?
is the harness the same?
will the stock 91 ECU run the engine properly?
is the oil pump and water pump housings the same?
would it be easier to do the crank and bearings?
 

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SDSU Alumnus
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So many questions and so many variables lol... I will take the first stab, and someone else can fill in the rest and/or make corrections.

Both routes will have their hurdles, but the original plan will ultimately be the best for both the short and long-term.

IF you go with the '95, then you will want to transfer your CAS+mount to the rear head/intake cam (not difficult). You will also need to figure out the PS pump, tensioner, and pulley situation between the two since your car uses a V-belt. I believe the same goes for the A/C compressor mounting bracket if that is being retained. The pan should be obvious along with OFH for front oil feed + oil cooler lines. IIRC, there is also the engine mount bracket (front?) that may need to be swapped (if so, easy again). Original N/A TB shaft seals will likely not hold boost for crap, so that may need to be swapped or addressed however you see fit. I know that I am missing a few more...

The original plan is fairly straight forward, although I would do more cleaning and replacement of parts in addition to just the aforementioned two items...
 

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Regardless of what direction you go... My main concern reading all that is what do you plan to do with the oil cooler and turbos that are full of metal now?

Throwing a crank in a blown up motor is just wasting a crank... It's going to blow up again as soon as you start pumping metal through your new bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Regardless of what direction you go... My main concern reading all that is what do you plan to do with the oil cooler and turbos that are full of metal now?

Throwing a crank in a blown up motor is just wasting a crank... It's going to blow up again as soon as you start pumping metal through your new bearings.
this is y i second guess what i am told and am asking this question

is there anything else i should replace and any common things i should watch out for? perhaps a thread for this?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well here is an update. Swap was easy. Tested the compression pushing 210 psi on all cylinders.
Bought a gasket set and had to transfer literally everything from the turbo block to the NA block, even the oil filter housing is different. I used the 2nd gen accessories and my working 1st gen ac compressor. Swapped tranny flywheel clutch. plugged up all that emissions trash and Swapped the 1st gen crank sensor on the head.
had to modify the oil pan for the oil returns, just self tapped and gasket sealed the oem oil returns. running off the wastegate till i figure out how tf to use a SAFC, AFCR with my 450cc injectors
 

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Well here is an update. Swap was easy. Tested the compression pushing 210 psi on all cylinders.
Bought a gasket set and had to transfer literally everything from the turbo block to the NA block, even the oil filter housing is different. I used the 2nd gen accessories and my working 1st gen ac compressor. Swapped tranny flywheel clutch. plugged up all that emissions trash and Swapped the 1st gen crank sensor on the head.
had to modify the oil pan for the oil returns, just self tapped and gasket sealed the oem oil returns. running off the wastegate till i figure out how tf to use a SAFC, AFCR with my 450cc injectors
Using a SAFC is pretty easy once you have it hooked up. There are a few huge threads on tuning using it that are worth reading. I would also read the actual manual so you know how to use the controller. I too was intimidated to do my own tuning using it but its quite simple - IF - if you have a wideband O2 and datalogging setup. There is really no way to tune without that.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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Well here is an update. Swap was easy. Tested the compression pushing 210 psi on all cylinders.
Bought a gasket set and had to transfer literally everything from the turbo block to the NA block, even the oil filter housing is different. I used the 2nd gen accessories and my working 1st gen ac compressor. Swapped tranny flywheel clutch. plugged up all that emissions trash and Swapped the 1st gen crank sensor on the head.
had to modify the oil pan for the oil returns, just self tapped and gasket sealed the oem oil returns. running off the wastegate till i figure out how tf to use a SAFC, AFCR with my 450cc injectors
Nice work!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Using a SAFC is pretty easy once you have it hooked up. There are a few huge threads on tuning using it that are worth reading. I would also read the actual manual so you know how to use the controller. I too was intimidated to do my own tuning using it but its quite simple - IF - if you have a wideband O2 and datalogging setup. There is really no way to tune without that.
yea I think I'm going to trade them and $300 for a chrome ECU from my buddy here soon anyways haha
 
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