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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey

I have a 91 VR4, stock clutch, 24,500 miles.

Yes. really. (long story short - bought the car last year 2,057 original miles) Anyways..

I just moved to DC and my car is stored underground mostly. I don't drive it everyday anymore. Maybe once or twice a week. So I got in today started it up. Everything was normal, but the clutch pedal felt kinda light (different, but anyways). I put it in gear and let the clutch out and started to roll forward.

Ok so this is were it got strange... The car seemed to be stuck in gear. Even though I would push the clutch in it wouldn't come out of gear. Since I wasn't going but like 5 mph as I braked the car was gonna stall, because I wouldn't force it to come out of gear. So I turned the car off. Then it came out of gear when I put the clutch in. I waited, started it back up, and everything was fine?!

Is this a sign of bad things to come? I have noticed that my clutch doesn't hold on launchs as good as it used to, but thats to be expected - it is almost 12 years old. Has anyone else experienced something like this?

Any feedback would be helpful.

Thanks,
Jon
 

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Sounds like something is wrong with your hydrolic system, I would have your master and slave cylinder checked out, is either one leaking? Is there enough fluid? The master cylinder usually leaks on the inside, the slave cylinder usually just leakes everywhere. Could just be some air in the line, I would have your hydrolic system bleed to start with, and look at your hydrolic system for leaks or complications.

I started having the same problems at you, ie- I pushed in the clutch pedal, and the clutch itself wouldn't disengage. A couple months later, new slave cylinder, master cylinder, and fresh fluid, all is well, and clutch feels like new again. If you find one is bad, I would highly recommend just replacing both. Usually if one is bad, the other is very soon to follow. (In my case, the master cylinder lasted about 2-3 weeks after my slave cylinder gave out)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The car doesn't leak any fluids that I have noticed (and I check all the time.)

How much did that service cost you?
 

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same thing happened to mine about a month ago. replaced master, slave, and the clutch disk. This is something that you can do yourself. did you check the clutch pedal for a leak on the floor? If you need any help, let me know. I live in Fredericksburg Va. I think i'll probably see you at the gathering on sat.
 

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you can get the slave for about $43 and the master for about $68 or so. easy to install and remove. Just rmrber to bleed the system afterwords.
 

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I'm in need of a master and slave cylinder myself, where is the best aka: cheapest place I can find one and how hard are they to put in as long as you're mechanically inclined and have tools?
 

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well I don't know what your local auto parts stores are but mine are autozone and Criellys and the slave cylinder is about $42 and the master is about $65 or so. They aren't hard to chande just a few connections. The hardest part will be the changing the slave cylinder which is located on the top side of the trans. You will need to remove the battery and the washer bottle to get at it. It is no big deal really.
 

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I was looking on the stealth316.com page and found the directions on changing the clutch hose and bleeding the clutch but couldn't find the info on changing nthe master and slave. You wouldn't happen to know where I find this info would you?
 

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i didn't have a problem when I did it. I just removed all the fluid and took off the master and changed them. I figured that it would be like changing one on my old pickup. I just refilled it and bleed the system a couple of times and went with it. No problems so far.
 

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i found some info that might help you a bit. good luck Brody

(Note - to remove the booster and the Clutch Master Cylinder, the bolts holding them down are inside the car, under the dashboard).

Remove the Brake Master Cylinder by removing the two hydraulic lines and the two bolts holding it in.
Unbolt the Brake Booster (big ass black round thing).
Go under the dashboard, look behind the pedals, and remove the brake shaft from the brake pedal.
Pull the Brake Booster off to the side to allow good access to the Clutch Master Cylinder.
Remove the hydraulic lines from the Clutch Master Cylinder.
Unbolt the Clutch Master Cylinder.
Look under the dashboard and remove the shaft from the clutch pedal.
Remove the Clutch Master Cylinder.
(*reverse steps 1 - 8 to re-install the Clutch Master Cylinder*)
Remove the intake hose and the top half of the airbox.
Remove the battery.
Unbolt and pull the battery tray and the washer fluid reservoir off to the side.
Unbolt the hydraulic lines to the slave cylinder.
Remove the slave cylinder.
Replace it once it's rebuilt.
Now bleed the Clutch.
The bleeder valve is located near the slave cylinder. It has a black rubber cap on it (click here for the SpeedBleeder replacement part - Ed.). Remove the cap, and use a 10mm wrench to loosen and tighten it. You'll need to bleed the clutch once you've got it all back together. Then reverse all the steps to put the battery tray and stuff back in. You're all done!

Take care to not get any brake fluid on any of the paint, as it will cause permanent damage.

You dont need to bleed your brakes if you are VERY careful with the Brake Master Cylinder. Don't let the fluid in the cylinder get below the reservoir line and you will have only minimal air in the lines, not enough to really make a difference at all. Bleeding the brakes is a PITA. (No it isn't - click here - Ed.)

If you have a crow's foot wrench, you can do it without removing the brake booster. There is one hydraulic line that you can't reach with a normal wrench and the brake booster in place, so you either remove the booster and do it or you use a crow's foot.

I would not get a Clutch Slave Cylinder rebuild kit unless it is made by Beck Arnley. I bought 3 different rebuild kits: Raybestos, Bendix, and Beck Arnley. The Raybestos kit had only rubber gaskets that *almost* fit right, but allowed fluid to leak all over my shoe, while the Bendix kit was a joke because the piston was half the size that it should be. All in all I removed, rebuilt and replaced my Clutch Master Cylinder 5 times trying to make these kits work. The Beck Arnley kit was for my slave cylinder and it was beautiful. I was unable to find a Beck Arnley kit for my Master Cylinder and I ended up buying a new one. I paid $58 for mine without any discount. Don't go to the dealer, instead find a local parts store that specializes in hard-to-find parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wanted to post the outcome here

Well it finally gave out...

The clutch was working like usual up until 2 days ago. When it started not going into gear when I started the car like it had before, but this time it didn't get better.

So I started with the basics - New Fluid. I checked and the level was low. So I bled out the old nasty-ness and put in new fluid. As I began to suspect, what was in the car was still the original fluid - so it was time for it to be refreshed.

Now the car works fine. Clutch feels better (different) than it did before. But more importantly it works!! :D

Anyways, I am gonna keep an eye on it the next couple of days. Make sure it isnt leaking out what I just put in. If so, then I guess I got other stuff to worry about.

THANKS to Jeff / Stealth316. He needs one of the Budwieser commercials that you hear on the radio "Real American Hero's" ;) :D

Couldn't have done this without him.

Thanks
- Jon
 
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