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Spartan for Life!
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When Eric at 3SX run his NA down the 1/4, he removes the VR4 brakes as it slows him down. Not much, but warrents changing back to NA. VR4 brakes OK for road course/autocross. With that in mind, I cant emagin what these (Abrims M1 Tank) brakes are going to do to your time. Or when trying to make a hard fast turn.
Bigger can be better, but lighter is faster. Not at all impressed.
Guess we should probably tell Phillip and a bunch of other people running Stoptechs they should probably switch too... Guess we should get all those Formula 1 and other top level road race cars to put smaller brakes on too, since they will be faster! Why didn't they think of this years ago?!?!

And I'd be willing to bet the Brembo calipers weigh a little less then the factory TT calipers. Amazingly not everyone cares just about drag racing...
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
you could put vr4 front on the rear but I dont know how your abs would work and you would deffinitly need a prop valve since the front have an area of 2720.62 and the rears are 1140.092 you would also require more brake pedel movement or a larger master cylander. One more small thing you would have to deal with is the ebrake. here is a static bias calculator (no prop valve calculated) if you want to play with it. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/
 

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vice prez: TPW
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Guess we should probably tell Phillip and a bunch of other people running Stoptechs they should probably switch too... Guess we should get all those Formula 1 and other top level road race cars to put smaller brakes on too, since they will be faster! Why didn't they think of this years ago?!?!

And I'd be willing to bet the Brembo calipers weigh a little less then the factory TT calipers. Amazingly not everyone cares just about drag racing...
Don still has a point.

That was actually how I got my 1st gen TT brakes on my '95. A guy who was focusing on drag racing wanted the options to run smaller wheels and more tire. So we traded brakes.

-John
 

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once you get in a higher hp car you will see that there is a limit to what the VR4 brakes can take I have cracked numerious rotors and melted pads, boiled brake fluid. I also dont think that our stock brakes are that great I have driven some cars with amazing brakes and vr4s just arnt there. even on my joy rides in the country I can get a new set of rotors to change colors. 160>30 puts alot of stress. I can see your argument against BBK but I think that your not looking at the advantages its the same argument I have against building an NA (im probably not looking at the advantages). but next NG we can try a 100 to 0 challenge and see where we are even though im > factory weight

My NA is for racing and is a light weight toy. But, Not a stranger at all to cars with power and weight. I do believe those brakes will stop you like dropping an anchore. And most important do it over and over and over again with out fade or fail. I just thought the brake package might be way too heavy and have affects on the car at high speed in the corners. I am a fan of large brakes, But a fan of the racing brakes from Willwood as they can be bolted to aluminum hats. I run Willwood racing rotors on the V12 Jag. LoL Made my own hats. And the Jag weighs in at 4949with no fuel and no driver. Jag brakes are all Gerling (air craft) Callipers. 4 piston up fronts and 2 piston rears. But, those pistons ar 2" diam. LOL. My Jag sport has official Champian Sports car club of America certs that verify a 201 MPH top speed. Long beach champ 5 years running. That was before I bought it. I was tired of cooking the rear Porsline single discs. Grrrr. They were junk. So went Willwood. Heres a couple shot of the rear as it sets today.







 

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The dark shall be with us
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you could put vr4 front on the rear but I dont know how your abs would work and you would deffinitly need a prop valve since the front have an area of 2720.62 and the rears are 1140.092 you would also require more brake pedel movement or a larger master cylander. One more small thing you would have to deal with is the ebrake. here is a static bias calculator (no prop valve calculated) if you want to play with it. Bias Calculator
i'm thinking the master cylinder should be same since they are going by left to right instead of front to rear. maybe a set of bbk rear rotor from brembo or stop tech would work with front calipers. i'm sure we might need to have prop valve to balance the brakes but i'm thinking this would be much cheaper than buying a bbk for front and rear.


doing brake job on that jag must be a bitch. that thing is so heavy that they put two struts per side lol .
 

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Coil overs are costly for 4. but your ride can be so finely adjusted by mixxing and matching sets.. Pads are easy, just pins. But, the rotors had better damn last. They strait up suck to get out. In fact, that is why I had the uniut out of the car. Rotors are easier out here than under there. So a detail was in order as long as it ws out.
 

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My NA is for racing and is a light weight toy. But, Not a stranger at all to cars with power and weight. I do believe those brakes will stop you like dropping an anchore. And most important do it over and over and over again with out fade or fail. I just thought the brake package might be way too heavy and have affects on the car at high speed in the corners. I am a fan of large brakes, But a fan of the racing brakes from Willwood as they can be bolted to aluminum hats. I run Willwood racing rotors on the V12 Jag. LoL Made my own hats. And the Jag weighs in at 4949with no fuel and no driver. Jag brakes are all Gerling (air craft) Callipers. 4 piston up fronts and 2 piston rears. But, those pistons ar 2" diam. LOL. My Jag sport has official Champian Sports car club of America certs that verify a 201 MPH top speed. Long beach champ 5 years running. That was before I bought it. I was tired of cooking the rear Porsline single discs. Grrrr. They were junk. So went Willwood. Heres a couple shot of the rear as it sets today.







Pretty cool that the calipers and rotors are sprung weight.
 

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I love my Jag. The only problem is the rear gearing is set up for the Autobon. LOL.
This one has 64,000 miles.
 

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Color: Arrest Me Red
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Did you put your rims and calipers on to see if they would clear the rims?
 

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Any luck with this? It seems like a killer idea.
 

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SOHC you in the FACE
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interested to see the weight of those 2 rotors for comparison. That said, who cares if the calipers weigh a little differently when the rotor looks twice as heavy and ROTATES.
That looks like adding 100+ pounds of rotating weight.
 

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Guess we should probably tell Phillip and a bunch of other people running Stoptechs they should probably switch too... Guess we should get all those Formula 1 and other top level road race cars to put smaller brakes on too, since they will be faster! Why didn't they think of this years ago?!?!

And I'd be willing to bet the Brembo calipers weigh a little less then the factory TT calipers. Amazingly not everyone cares just about drag racing...
I am not a fan of drag racing. Dah. Everyone knows that. I only do that to keep the trophies. I am a road course person thank you. And I never said stop teck were heavy and never said bigger brakes were not better. So why the hell to you try to put words in my mouth. All of my comments were in regards to those boat ancker in this post. Those are not just bigger, they are way heavier. That was the point. So Bite me, and try to read what is in front of you with out adding your own idea of what someone else is saying. If you are doing this to try and make yourself look smarter to others, Don't bother, your too late.
 

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interested to see the weight of those 2 rotors for comparison. That said, who cares if the calipers weigh a little differently when the rotor looks twice as heavy and ROTATES.
That looks like adding 100+ pounds of rotating weight.
Ondontii,
They are not getting it are they?
 

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Keeps fragging heads...
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This looks promising :)

I drove a '09 altima the other day and the brakes completely kicked the shit outta mine. Granted Im having a problem w/ vacuum check valves and such, I was sad when i got back in my car.

If you are the type of person to go thru installing new brake components, then you are obviously the type of person that would go the extra step and tune a frickin prop. valve. Are you guys seriously thinking of that as a downside? lol...

The rotors are DEFINITELY a metric shit-ton meatier, but it's a trade-off. Lag vs Power. rotational weight vs being able to jam out and STOP. I'd go there. Id go as far to throw in a new master cylinder too.

2-piece GT500 rotors from stillen are $1000 and some change, tho (ouch)
 

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die die die!!
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i want.. it's either going to be something like this or second gen brakes. how much should the brackets be?

what did you manage to pick the rotors up for? and i take it you're trying to use your stock spindle?

_isiah
 

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Discussion Starter #60
this will work and is very simple im slacking sorry guys Im buying a house and dont have time for this right now+ this is my DD. plates are evan simpler then anticipated pretty much a flat piece of steel with 2 unthreaded holes in them. You will have to grind the caliper and your hub about a 1/4in combined
 
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