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I'm so pumped, i got my vr4 finally back from the mechanic today. Still haven't driven it but i reallllllly reallllly want to!! My dad won't let me b/c its raining...i don't blame him...anyways...I was told by the shop that I can only take it up to 3000 rpm's for the first few 1000 miles...is that true?? I wanna be at least at 5k! lol. Thanks!
 

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break in ur engine properly... do a search on how to do it here or on jeffL's site... dont wana sent it back to the shop that soon...

and daddy wont let u drive in the rain??? muahahahahaha...
 

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I would follow the mechanics advice, atleast don't go around shit holing it, and bouncing of the rev limiter. After a couple hundred of miles you might try it out once or twice, but I would still do mostly mellow driving with it.
 

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UP THE IRONS!!!
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I'd follow the mechanics advice....that way if the engine fucks up....you can go right back to him and say..."I did exactly as you told me". If you f it up and bring it back...trust me....he WILL be able to tell and hell rightfully tell you that you are S.O.L. Be patient and do what he tells you.
 

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Only Tonic is Chronic
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Sweet man. We Will have to get together and Take some Pics like we had planed.
 

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wow

What did you have replaced? I have never heard of not bringing your engine above 3000 RPM for a break in. I think I smell bullshit somewhere. Not to sound like a jerk, but I think your dad had your mechanic shovel you shit, so you would take it easier on the car.
-BF$
 

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BF$---People like you are the reason cars don't last longer.

Break-in is key to long engine life. As a matter of fact, it holds a close second to oil changes in overall imortance.

Keep it nder 3K rpms, don't accelerate hard until it's warmed up fully, and change the oil REALLY often.
 

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You shouldn't push it too hard the 1st 1K miles. That means, take it easy. Don't stay at one speed and don't brake too hard. As said earlier, what you do w/in the 1st 1K miles, can be a vital part of your engine's long term life.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks all! going for my first ride bright and early :) Will take it very easy on my motor for the first 1-2k mles. This car took out my entire savings account so...its my baby!
 

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REALLY?

I don't know what I'm talking about, Oh really. I have put together oner a dozendiffernt engines. YellowES, how many engines have you built? WICKEDDREW, how many cars have you wrecked? I have yet to have an accident or blow an engine up. Besides if you keep the engine below 3000 rpms and are lugging the engine, then thats even worse than reving the engine up high.
. You're supposed to keep it at about 3 or 4 thousand RPM's to get the oil circulated around in the motor, and to make sure all the gaskets and seals are set too
3 or 4 thousand huh? really! The initial break in done by the mechanic goes as follows:

1500 rpm until the engine hits operating temp. If nothing major is leaking, then all the seals and gaskets are fine. By the time the engine is up to operating temp, the rings are about as broken in as they are going to get. This is not 1950, No one uses steel rings anymore, I bet that your mechanic used a moly ring, which seals virtually instantly.

If you don't believe me, then ask you mechanic why you can't rev it up. Ask him what is the reason I can't keep the rpms steady for extended periods of time. He should tell you that the cylinder wall will get glazed. See how much knowledge he has. sorry for the long rant.
 

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Hey Zack,
Remember Hans and my advice. Take it slow and easy. No rush. I don't wanna have to see you doing burnouts in that car. :p
Long ass drive back to Hans shop btw. Lotsa fog ... ask Hans if he had a helluva ride down the NJ Turnpike with me driving. :D
 

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Re: wow

BF$ said:
What did you have replaced? I have never heard of not bringing your engine above 3000 RPM for a break in. I think I smell bullshit somewhere. Not to sound like a jerk, but I think your dad had your mechanic shovel you shit, so you would take it easier on the car.
-BF$
Errr - wrong. That would just make him more and more anxious, waiting for that 1000 mile mark, after which he'd drive like a maniac.

Its called a "break-in" period for a reason. Take it easy on your car, let all your gaskets and rings set.

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD IT'S WORTH THE WAIT!!!!!!!!!!

.jon
 

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uh

Maybe i'm more deductive. Maybe I have been screwed by too many people to trust. Let me show how I see this situation.
Still haven't driven it but i reallllllly reallllly want to!! My dad won't let me b/c its raining
-hmm... that sounds funny. My rt/tt loved the rain. Plus all wheel drive is one of the biggest selling points to a vr-4(in my opinion).
I was told by the shop that I can only take it up to 3000 rpm's for the first few 1000 miles...is that true??
-here he asks a question, and a good one too. I gave an answer.
There is no reason that he can't spin the car up to 5000 rpm. NO reason at all. If there is a reason, then show proof. I will apologize personally to everyone if you can show me a factory manual that says you can't rev your engine above 3000 RPMs. The only time rpms comes into play in a break in is variation. You can't keep the engine at a constant rpm or you will glaze the cylinder walls. I don't think what I stated in my first reply was far off. His dad won't let him drive in the rain, and the mechanic told him something that is entirely untrue. That must seem odd to a few people.
 

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I am curious as to what kind of engine YOU have built. You seem to think that revving a rebuilt engine up to 5000rpm is proper procedure ..... enlighten me with your "wisdom."
 

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enlighten you I shall. First of all, i have mostly rebuilt mopar engines(360, 318, 2.5L, 2.2L, 2.0, and one chevy350). Engines are engines. If you can build a chevy, then you can build a Ford. If you can build a big block then you can build a four cylinder. Some engines just have little tricks to them. Such as chevy 350s have a pressed on oil pickup tube, that likes to fall off. Although this is rare, it must not be overlooked and a quick hit of the welder is all that is needed. Now, I never said 5000 rpms is procedure. I believe i already posted procedure.
1500 rpm until the engine hits operating temp. If nothing major is leaking, then all the seals and gaskets are fine. By the time the engine is up to operating temp, the rings are about as broken in as they are going to get.
In case you missed it. He said he wanted 5000 rpms. As long as he doesn't have it floored he'll be ok. Don't get hung up over high rpms. Constant rpms are the real killer. Lugging your car at too low an rpm is just as bad if not worse.

So how many engines have you built?
 

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I think the mechanic told him 3K RPMs and 3K miles, because he know people will not listen to him, if he said 5K RPMs and 1K miles.

And 3K RPMS in are care are probably normaly shifting point anyways. I believe most people cruse around at aroun 1750-2250 RPM, if they are driving around town.

BTW if you have ever bought a new car or motor cycle they will tell you you are not supposed to go over a certain RPM/MPH for the first XXX miles.
 

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I think the mechanic told him 3K RPMs and 3K miles, because he know people will not listen to him, if he said 5K RPMs and 1K miles.
That is something i will believe, however that is still not something that is normally said. If you drive your car at a steady 2000 rpm in fourth or fith gear at low speed, lugging the engine around town. Then you will have problems with the engine, and you can tell the shop "hey I kept it under 3000 rpm, so you owe me an engine"
 

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A lot of hard aftermarket rings have to be broken in properly before high rpm bursts, or blow-by can cause a hot spot on the cylinder wall.

The reason you vary your engine speed during break-in is so the freshly honed cylinder walls don't wear into an elliptical shape. There is enough slack in the piston/cylinder clearances to allow the outward thrust of the crank to push the pistons outward at higher rpm's, and until rings are seated and broken in, this is not a good thing to do. I have a book right in front of me ("How to Rebuild and Modify Chevrolet Small Block Engines") that says to vary your rpm's(for the above reason) and KEEP YOUR ENGINE SPEED DOWN UNTIL ALL BEARING SURFACES HAVE HAD ENOUGH TIME TO SEAT PROPERLY... AT LEAST 1000 MILES, WITH AN OIL CHANGE AT 500 MILES to remove microscopic metal particles from the sump.

Hey, maybe the book is wrong, as many books have been, but I can tell you right now I'm taking the book's word over yours. It's perfectly logical to take it easy on a fresh engine, and it won't do any harm as long as you vary rpm's... so why not?

As previously stated... all new otorcycles and many new cars come with stickers that say NOT TO GO OVER XXXX rpm's until you reach a certain mileage. Why argue with them?

You are a rude jackass... the way you say "how many engines have you built", and "how many cars have you wrecked".

You must carry a plaque that lists your rebuilding feats.

You don't see me rubbing my experience in people's faces... I just answer folks' questions, and if they choose to ignore my advice I let them do their own thing. I don't tell them I'm pit crew on a drag team and race-prep a 1000+ HP Merlin 541 CI engine, do I?

Rebuilding engines isn't anything to brag about. All it takes is hands, tools, and specs. My girlfriend can rebuild engine to spec. The only thing that takes any skill whatsoever is machining engines and porting heads.

I have assembled 3 chevy 350's, one stocker for a work truck, one mild 275-300HP, and one 400+HP with a 200 shot of nitrous. They are all still intact and in good condition. I did all my own block prep (deburring, opening up oil flow holes) I have also built a Chevy 305, a Toyota 22R, a Honda 750cc 4cyl OHC cycle engine, a Dodge 318, an AMC 304, a Datsun 2.8, a Yamaha 700cc 2cyl cycle engine, and a few go-kart engines... oh yeah, and r/c car engines (just to top it off) :rolleyes: .

I LIVE and breathe cars... I have engine parts all around me... I have a bucket of Chevy pistons, bearings, rods, etc in my closet, and I have a Mazda RX7 rotor and housing on my entertainment center(the only engine I ever blew). I work on my cars or motorcycle EVERY day (I just removed my Valiant's fan and installed an electric fan and advanced the cam timing, and earlier I lowered the rear end 2"). If I don't have grease on my hands, I'll go crazy. What do YOU do for a living? I work on cars, race cars, sell auto parts, and sell cars.

You are a smart-ass and do not know shit about the people you smart off to.
 
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