Have you tried PMing Ralliart3000GT?
Getrag Rebuild Manual - 5 and 6 speed models
After years of searching and many weeks of translation work, I am now proud to provide the first complete Getrag W5MG1/W6MG1 rebuild manual for our cars.
This book was translated from the original MMC Japanese language service manual by myself, with assistance from several 3SI members.
I've provided both the unedited Japanese book and the translated US book. In addition to the service specifications to the transaxle I've included the DaimlerChrysler transfer case recall information.
Original Japanese manual
http://xtreme3s.net/images/Getrag/Book/JPN Getrag book.pdf
Translated US manual
3S_AWD_trans_service_manual.pdf
PLEASE understand that I have taken every effort to ensure an accurate translation, but I cannot guarantee the perfect accuracy of this book! It is presented as a guide only and you should NOT attempt this work unless you have a thorough understanding of what you're doing!
Also, please let me know if you find any errors. I can very easily update the book if needed. I'd like to hear any and all feedback you may have to offer.
This book was translated from the original MMC Japanese language service manual by myself, with assistance from several 3SI members.
I've provided both the unedited Japanese book and the translated US book. In addition to the service specifications to the transaxle I've included the DaimlerChrysler transfer case recall information.
Original Japanese manual
http://xtreme3s.net/images/Getrag/Book/JPN Getrag book.pdf
Translated US manual
3S_AWD_trans_service_manual.pdf
PLEASE understand that I have taken every effort to ensure an accurate translation, but I cannot guarantee the perfect accuracy of this book! It is presented as a guide only and you should NOT attempt this work unless you have a thorough understanding of what you're doing!
Also, please let me know if you find any errors. I can very easily update the book if needed. I'd like to hear any and all feedback you may have to offer.
41 - 60 of 74 Posts
No not yet. I am a newbie and don't know the rope yet. Who is ralliart3000gt?
I will try pm him...
Andre
I will try pm him...
Andre
Thank You for the transmission service manual.. I just picked up my dream car for 836 dollars. One of the problems is that second gear grinds everytime. I called mitsubishi and the parts to fix it are only 90 dollars.
nice nice.... i printed this out and have in a book. for referance when i or a friend need it. thanks a bunch man, you helped alot of people out by doing this..
Can you share with me the information on your second gear grind issue. I have the exact same issue.Thank You for the transmission service manual.. I just picked up my dream car for 836 dollars. One of the problems is that second gear grinds everytime. I called mitsubishi and the parts to fix it are only 90 dollars.
If possible, also forward the overhaul manual for the transmission.
I've got the 92 VR4 TT
There's a link to download it on the first post of this thread... That's what this thread has been about for the last five years.Can you share with me the information on your second gear grind issue. I have the exact same issue.
If possible, also forward the overhaul manual for the transmission.
I've got the 92 VR4 TT
edit: OK, only four years....
Hi,
I am newly join in this site.This is very useful to others.The Toyota Supra was a sports car/grand tourer produced by Toyota Motor Company from 1979 to 2002. The styling of the Toyota Supra was derived from the Toyota Celica, but it was both longer and wider. Starting in mid-1986, the Supra (in its third generation) became its own model and was no longer based on the Celica. In turn, Toyota also stopped using the prefix Celica and began just calling the car Supra. Due to the similarity and past of the Toyota Celica's name, it is frequently mistaken for the Toyota Supra, and vice versa.
===================
sharoo
New Cars
I am newly join in this site.This is very useful to others.The Toyota Supra was a sports car/grand tourer produced by Toyota Motor Company from 1979 to 2002. The styling of the Toyota Supra was derived from the Toyota Celica, but it was both longer and wider. Starting in mid-1986, the Supra (in its third generation) became its own model and was no longer based on the Celica. In turn, Toyota also stopped using the prefix Celica and began just calling the car Supra. Due to the similarity and past of the Toyota Celica's name, it is frequently mistaken for the Toyota Supra, and vice versa.
===================
sharoo
New Cars
Hi,
I am newly join in this site.This is very useful to others.The Toyota Supra was a sports car/grand tourer produced by Toyota Motor Company from 1979 to 2002. The styling of the Toyota Supra was derived from the Toyota Celica, but it was both longer and wider. Starting in mid-1986, the Supra (in its third generation) became its own model and was no longer based on the Celica. In turn, Toyota also stopped using the prefix Celica and began just calling the car Supra. Due to the similarity and past of the Toyota Celica's name, it is frequently mistaken for the Toyota Supra, and vice versa.
===================
sharoo
New Cars
WTF????
spam...WTF????
I reciently changed the clutch in my 94 VR4 only to find a problem with 2ed gear (syncro I believe). This will be invaluable help for me, thank you for the file. I also found R&R of this gear box the most dificult in my personal history.
I left the engine in the frame and think it my have been easier to remove them both.
I left the engine in the frame and think it my have been easier to remove them both.
The easiest way to install the tranny is with a cherry picker attached to where the shift cable bracket is. Just jack it up slowly and keep manuvouring it as you go along. Pop out the top rubber breather and look into the hole with a light to align the input shaft splines into the clutch disk. You can get it flat against the engine in less than 5 minutes using this stratagy.
If you try to force the tranny into place you will most likely damage the pressure plate figures. This will result in a dragging clutch and 2nd gear is the most sensitive to a draging clutch. The only fix for a damaged pressure plate is a new plate. You may need to adjust your shift cables under the shift boot as well.
My experience with these trannys has proven to be opposite of yours. I think they are one of the easiest to work with. What other trannys do you have experience with out of curiousity?
If you try to force the tranny into place you will most likely damage the pressure plate figures. This will result in a dragging clutch and 2nd gear is the most sensitive to a draging clutch. The only fix for a damaged pressure plate is a new plate. You may need to adjust your shift cables under the shift boot as well.
My experience with these trannys has proven to be opposite of yours. I think they are one of the easiest to work with. What other trannys do you have experience with out of curiousity?
These are the easiest awd transmissions to work on. Even the dsm transmissions are more complex to take apart and assemble.The easiest way to install the tranny is with a cherry picker attached to where the shift cable bracket is. Just jack it up slowly and keep manuvouring it as you go along. Pop out the top rubber breather and look into the hole with a light to align the input shaft splines into the clutch disk. You can get it flat against the engine in less than 5 minutes using this stratagy.
If you try to force the tranny into place you will most likely damage the pressure plate figures. This will result in a dragging clutch and 2nd gear is the most sensitive to a draging clutch. The only fix for a damaged pressure plate is a new plate. You may need to adjust your shift cables under the shift boot as well.
My experience with these trannys has proven to be opposite of yours. I think they are one of the easiest to work with. What other trannys do you have experience with out of curiousity?
Firstly Thanks guys, I don't know if there is anything quite as awesome as this effort for the 3s.
one thing that's not covered, having just gone through all of this is how the cabless & looms are tied down on the box, if would be brilliant to have a diagram as to exactly how and where the tie downs are suppose to be attached... this is the last part that I cannot find a reference to in any other manual or guide that I have.
anyone got for example some photo's or other useful way if seeing exactly what goes where on the outside of the box? not fussed about the clutch master + shifter cable holder..just as above...showing the other stuff.
one thing that's not covered, having just gone through all of this is how the cabless & looms are tied down on the box, if would be brilliant to have a diagram as to exactly how and where the tie downs are suppose to be attached... this is the last part that I cannot find a reference to in any other manual or guide that I have.
anyone got for example some photo's or other useful way if seeing exactly what goes where on the outside of the box? not fussed about the clutch master + shifter cable holder..just as above...showing the other stuff.
Does anyone have the secret to removing the spacer ring and ball from the 6 speed input shaft?
what page and part numbers are you refering to?
Page 22-35 W6MG1 - Input shaft detailwhat page and part numbers are you refering to?
Item #10 / 5th gear bearing sleeve
Item #11 / Spacer ring
Item #12 / Steel ball
Item #15 / 4th gear bearing sleeve
I had 5th and 6th off. The 5th gear bearing sleeve holds the spacer in place. I used my bearing tool under item #17 / 3rd gear to press the assembly apart. I ended up splitting the 4th gear sleeve, damaging the needle bearing, shaft, and ball.
It would appear that I skipped step E on 22-36, but there did not seem to be enough room to get the bearing tool under the syncro teeth of the 4th gear. I would have had to use the teeth surfaces, and thought it would damage the teeth.
Oh crap :| for actual work on the axles I got a local mob to use $1500 worth of bearing separators to get it all apart. sorry I can't help.
Do either exactly that or put your split bearing puller, aka clam shell, under 3rd gear and press it off only until you start to get more resistance. Then flip the assembly upside down and press the spacer ring back down on the shaft. This will make a gap big enough to allow the check ball to be removed. After the ball is ot of the way, you can press everything off....It would appear that I skipped step E on 22-36, but there did not seem to be enough room to get the bearing tool under the syncro teeth of the 4th gear. I would have had to use the teeth surfaces, and thought it would damage the teeth.
I usually press just 4th gear off by putting the puller under the dog teeth. The will only chip if that bearing sleeve is stuck on there really good. In which case you will know because it won't come off right away. Then you can just switch to the other method.
If you try to press off 4th, then make sure the nuts on the puller are tight. If things get croocked, then you are more likely to break teeth.
crap guys i still need help. i need to kno the easiest way to do the VCU on the getrag trans when making it just FWD rather then the AWD.
41 - 60 of 74 Posts
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