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Gatecrasher transmission install method with Pictures

15275 Views 51 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  jstarr427
I decided to make a picture write up of Gatecrashers method because of many confused people not understanding the easy of this method or even where to bolt on the chain. I hope this well be used 85% more often in hoisting the transmission back up into the motor bay.

Items Needed:
Hoist
12mm wrench/socket
Chain


Before viewing pictures. I am forwarning you they were amateur taken. The photo taker(s) didn't know how to use zoom on my camera, my wife would have been upset if I touched it with my dirty hands. I apologize inadvance for the blurry and far vew

Step One:
Locate the 2 shift link bolts center top of the transmission bell housing View Attach Thumbnail 1.

Step Two:
Bolt the chain to both bolts. Yes don't worry those bolts can hold your transmission. But use your own method if you don't think the bolts are graded high enough. Leave 5-6 inches between chain to loop it over the hook on hoist. View Attach Thumbnail 2 and 3

Step Three:
Slid, drag whatever you choose just find a way to place transmission back underneath engine bay. Roll hoist up to bumper(I used a pad to protect my bumper from getting scratched up by hoist). loop chain up over the hook on your hoist. If you don't have a hook on your hoist find a way to attach chain to hoist.

Step Four:
Start cranking hoist up, watch that the transmission don't get caught up under your frame! The placement of chain is the center weight distribution point so the transmission lines up 95-99.9% in place!! You may have to wiggle push to align splines but thats it! View Attach Thumbnail 4 and 5

Step Five:
Your done!
WAIT!
Make sure to bolt up transmission before taking hoist and chain off!

This method took us all but 10 minutes to do. :clap:

I'd Like to thank (in alpha order) Dave(davebearclaw), Jimmy#2(3kdreamn) and Ray(viper3k) for there help. Will we ever hang out with out working on our cars?

In closing I'd like to thank Jeff for figuring this weight distrubution lifting spot out!

In closing thanks to Jeff and his amazing find on the center weight distribution and how it lifts it at the right angle to align right up in seconds.

:welcome:

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I will need to pull tranny sometime this summer, and was dreading the bench-press or "balance-on-floorjack" manuever. This looks so much easier.

Thanks for sharing (or maybe reminding us of) this method.

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This thread comes back to life just at the right time for me. I hope to be installing new synchros and putting tranny back in this weekend.

When removing the tranny, I lowered it with hoist chain connected to these bolts. I was doing it by myself, and was not as smooth as I hoped. The tranny will not drop straight down, and I could not tilt the tranny to get the output-shaft "hump" down as I read as the way to do it. Possibly with two people it would be easy, with one manuevering the tranny, and the other controlling the hoist.

I will be installing this by myself, and was hoping for some even more-detailed tips. . . . Will the tranny lift straight up, , end of case rubbing the passenger-side frame, IF the "hump" is rotated down? . . . I am thinking of rigging a temporary strap from the hoist hook, to the front of tranny (fill-plug side). (see sketch below) . . . This would hold the tranny hump down, until it clears the frame, then take the temp strap off.

I am hoping:
- raise tranny, straight up, with temp strap
- remove strap so that tranny sets level
- install Chris's head-less bolts, or long T-case bolts to assist alignment
- push the tranny home

Should this work? One-man job?

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Well, I won't be trying the "side-strap" this weekend. . . The tranny is apart, and it was not the friction ring causing first-gear grinding, it is a broken outer ring. . . . now I need to find one of those, before I can put the car back together. :(
I have an outer ring if you need one. Shoot me a PM
PM sent . . . PayPal to follow shortly. . THANKS Chris!

Below is photo, to make sure we are talking about the same part, and to show the crack. It is exaggerated, because I pulled the ring apart and twisted it before it closed. Otherwise the crack is barely visible. . . . I am SO glad I noticed it before assembling everything.

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I had big plans for doing this myself, taking pictures along the way to show exactly what the tranny looked like going up, and then putting it all on the Wiki . . . I started pulling it up with the straps rigged so that the "hump" was down, but just could not get the darn thing to squeeze by the frame etc. . . I took the extra straps off and tried pulling straight up.

LONG story short, I finally gave up trying to do myself and found some help. . . Even then could not do it.

To back up a little. --> To get the passenger-side axle out, I did NOT remove the control arm and swaybar link etc., I removed the two bolts at the top of knuckle (attaches to strut). I did this because I was familiar with taking it apart that way, and need a wheel alignment anyway.

In retrospect, maybe it is a lot easier to remove the lower control arm and swaybar link, because I just could not find a way to get the tranny pulled up past the frame until I removed the swaybar link, and loosened the one swaybar bracket.

I almost started over, removing the control arm, to get some pics, . . but at that point I was WAY too tired and cold* fool with it anymore, I had the tranny on the long "alignment" bolts and was NOT going back. :D

To let others know --> . . is it REQUIRED to pull the lower control arm bolt and swaybar links? (to make clearance)

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* my lift is more like a towable crane, than a shop lift, so I had to leave the garage door open to use it. The temp was 25 degrees, but I thought "these guys say it only takes a few minutes, that won't be bad." :D . . . after 1.5 hours, I was a human ice cube.
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