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· having it my way
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1,160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I decided to make a picture write up of Gatecrashers method because of many confused people not understanding the easy of this method or even where to bolt on the chain. I hope this well be used 85% more often in hoisting the transmission back up into the motor bay.

Items Needed:
Hoist
12mm wrench/socket
Chain


Before viewing pictures. I am forwarning you they were amateur taken. The photo taker(s) didn't know how to use zoom on my camera, my wife would have been upset if I touched it with my dirty hands. I apologize inadvance for the blurry and far vew

Step One:
Locate the 2 shift link bolts center top of the transmission bell housing View Attach Thumbnail 1.

Step Two:
Bolt the chain to both bolts. Yes don't worry those bolts can hold your transmission. But use your own method if you don't think the bolts are graded high enough. Leave 5-6 inches between chain to loop it over the hook on hoist. View Attach Thumbnail 2 and 3

Step Three:
Slid, drag whatever you choose just find a way to place transmission back underneath engine bay. Roll hoist up to bumper(I used a pad to protect my bumper from getting scratched up by hoist). loop chain up over the hook on your hoist. If you don't have a hook on your hoist find a way to attach chain to hoist.

Step Four:
Start cranking hoist up, watch that the transmission don't get caught up under your frame! The placement of chain is the center weight distribution point so the transmission lines up 95-99.9% in place!! You may have to wiggle push to align splines but thats it! View Attach Thumbnail 4 and 5

Step Five:
Your done!
WAIT!
Make sure to bolt up transmission before taking hoist and chain off!

This method took us all but 10 minutes to do. :clap:

I'd Like to thank (in alpha order) Dave(davebearclaw), Jimmy#2(3kdreamn) and Ray(viper3k) for there help. Will we ever hang out with out working on our cars?

In closing I'd like to thank Jeff for figuring this weight distrubution lifting spot out!

In closing thanks to Jeff and his amazing find on the center weight distribution and how it lifts it at the right angle to align right up in seconds.

:welcome:
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
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1,133 Posts
.
I will need to pull tranny sometime this summer, and was dreading the bench-press or "balance-on-floorjack" manuever. This looks so much easier.

Thanks for sharing (or maybe reminding us of) this method.

.
 

· having it my way
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1,160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes I did this as a reminder. I am seeing more and more of us pulling our transmissions this year. Many people are visual like myself I never did find pictures of this method.

:). My pleasure.
 
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20,248 Posts
Oh and good job. :welcome:
i know kormex still has them:

kormex trans parts

them method works great, but 2 things may help some people.

1. You can just tie a ratchet strap around the shifter bracket and avoid removing it at all.
2. I always take 2 4 inch bolts with the same thread as the bellhousing bolts. Then you cut the heads off of them. Then hacksaw a small slit across them (for a flat blade screwdriver in case they get stuck). You then thread them into the engine and use them as guides. That way the weight of the trans is on the longer bolts and you are for sure not going to put any weight on the clutch splines while trying to mount it.
 

· Rockstar
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2,351 Posts
Nice writeup! :bigok:
 

· Registered
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8,793 Posts
i know kormex still has them:

kormex trans parts

them method works great, but 2 things may help some people.

1. You can just tie a ratchet strap around the shifter bracket and avoid removing it at all.
2. I always take 2 4 inch bolts with the same thread as the bellhousing bolts. Then you cut the heads off of them. Then hacksaw a small slit across them (for a flat blade screwdriver in case they get stuck). You then thread them into the engine and use them as guides. That way the weight of the trans is on the longer bolts and you are for sure not going to put any weight on the clutch splines while trying to mount it.
I can't rep you, but the 2nd tip is rep worthy. Good stuff.
 

· Registered
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4,547 Posts
Good writeup and definitely the easiest way to pull and re-fit the tranny. I use the long TC bolts to locate the gearbox when it was somewhere near, worked a treat.
 

· having it my way
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1,160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I take it new end cap seals are no longer available?
are you commiting towards my picture of the end case? That is a new seal. I just freak out and decided to be crazy and use some sealant to better protect it. :D

My old one was done in by me smashing it with the end case getting sat on top of it. But I had NO plan to reuse it.

Thanks for all the positive comments. The real thanks belongs to the discover of this method!
 

· Registered
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6,511 Posts
2. I always take 2 4 inch bolts with the same thread as the bellhousing bolts. Then you cut the heads off of them. Then hacksaw a small slit across them (for a flat blade screwdriver in case they get stuck). You then thread them into the engine and use them as guides. That way the weight of the trans is on the longer bolts and you are for sure not going to put any weight on the clutch splines while trying to mount it.
That's a good idea right there....
 

· I have an ego problem
Joined
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4,370 Posts
i know kormex still has them:

kormex trans parts

them method works great, but 2 things may help some people.

1. You can just tie a ratchet strap around the shifter bracket and avoid removing it at all.
2. I always take 2 4 inch bolts with the same thread as the bellhousing bolts. Then you cut the heads off of them. Then hacksaw a small slit across them (for a flat blade screwdriver in case they get stuck). You then thread them into the engine and use them as guides. That way the weight of the trans is on the longer bolts and you are for sure not going to put any weight on the clutch splines while trying to mount it.
This should just be a sticky as a hole. Lots of clutches are destroyed by letting the input spline hang on the clutch splines....(almost all C/C clutches are ruined b/c of this).
 

· Registered
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720 Posts
This IS the best way. It is also my method of transmission R&R, but I never got to try it on a 3/S yet. I've been doing it for years. The Chrysler 41TE automatics have perfect bolt locations to do this also. I used to do the balancing act on top of a floor jack, blah blah blah. And it sucks. I'm too wimpy to bench press it, plus the car has to be up HIGH. Unless you have a car hoist and an actual transmission jack.
 

· Gear Head
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3,323 Posts
IPO introduced this method to me a few years ago and I have been useing and recommending it ever sence. My record is about 3 minutes but I think he got one in even faster one time. It usually takes me about 5-10 minutes on average though, so long as the disk is properly aligned. It is so easy and the best part is you eliminate the risk of a warped disk so long as you keep a little tension on the chains at all times. You should add this and the pics to the wiki.

Don't forget that you can pop out the center breather to get a good look at the input shaft splines. If they are not aligned, then put a rachet on the crank pulley and turn the engine.
 

· Gear Head
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3,323 Posts
Being fast is not the most important thing. Doing it right is the most important thing. Being fast is a bonus you get from experience. It can very difficult to be fast when you primarily do performance work because a lot of the cars you run into have serious problems when they are delivered to you from another shop who did lord knows what.
 
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