[sandstone92vr4]

Haha maybe you did. No not wild at all. Just watching the boost go higher even though you keep turning down the duty cycle is a mind fuck until you realize what’s going on lol.

Part of my issue with this car is it’s a toy, and like you saying you told me, you probably did and I’ve just forgotten because it’s one of many things I focus on in life lol. I can’t retain everything I read when I read it then the car sits for 2 weeks while I work on something else. I guess it’s the problem of trying to stay busy to distract myself from life lol.

 

[rossb]

Guess yours wasn't set too much higher than mine when I first messed it up. Basically my end PSI was set at like 13psi but my duty cycle had me down around 7psi. So the LCDBC would hold until the 13psi, then go back to duty cycle, which would slam open the wastegates trying to get me to 7psi, but then the hold PSI function would take over again shooting me back up to 13psi. Makes the car do a nice lurching motion.

 

[stevecooper]

Easy to overcome that by adding preload to the WG actuators

 

[TurboSinceBirth]

Still pretty weird you’re getting that lean of AFR and trims that say the complete opposite. Even if you had a large source of unmetered air somewhere causing a leaner idle it would still get registered by the 02 sensors downstream and update in the fuel trims.

According to Trevor’s old thread you can bump up the stock injectors to 45 psi base and support 417hp.https://www.3si.org/threads/tech-my-take-on-injectors-vs-timing-control-vs-hp-with-the-stock-ecu.262353/

I never was able to get that cheater spool function to work right but Antero only made it for the 9b guys so they could try and make the higher rpm peak boost not fall off with rpms. When I had DR-750s running 30-32 psi it would spike and surge like crazy so I set it to default settings to keep it off and have a much more stable boost curve. This was with 18 psi wastegate springs at the time.

 

[sandstone92vr4]

Well put a new engine coolant temp sensor in today. I think it’s happier. Will be monitoring the fuel trims again.

I have my lcdbc set to limit boost under certain temps, seems like it never fails if the engine is cold I get knock once to 27 then it goes away. Since owning this car it’s never liked to be ran hard after just getting started but 10 minutes in it’s fine. I guess I need to datalog it to see what’s up. Which brings me to my next issue. I still can’t get that to work. I have downloaded evo scan and I have this cable pictures below. Do I need a different cable or some sort of driver? I don’t get it?

 

[rossb]

Wait are you using the LCDBC data port? Because it is a serial port. You just need to buy the serial to USB cable like I linked to your a while back and hook her on up to the LCDBC. You specifically need a serial to USB with the FTDI chipset. Here is the link to the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017D51ZRQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[jrhorne]

Well put a new engine coolant temp sensor in today. I think it’s happier. Will be monitoring the fuel trims again.

I have my lcdbc set to limit boost under certain temps, seems like it never fails if the engine is cold I get knock once to 27 then it goes away. Since owning this car it’s never liked to be ran hard after just getting started but 10 minutes in it’s fine. I guess I need to datalog it to see what’s up. Which brings me to my next issue. I still can’t get that to work. I have downloaded evo scan and I have this cable pictures below. Do I need a different cable or some sort of driver? I don’t get it?

If you had a coolant temp sensor issue for the ECU temp sensor and it was showing cold temps, then wouldn't it just be in open loop the entire time dumping a bunch of fuel? I suppose it could have failed and not shown cold temps.

Also, ran hard after just getting started? I hope you at least wait until the oil is warmed up, which usually takes at least 5 minutes.

26 is the max knock to my knowledge. If you get a random value of 26-27 is might just be a data transmission issue. I get that with torque (not just with knock but other parameters), but that's because i have a USB OBD2 cable with a baud rate that doesnt exactly match.

 

[sandstone92vr4]

@rossb I have this cable laying around and was curious if it could work. I thought the circuit board in it was the ftdi chip set. I can get the right cable but figured if I could unplug the lcdbc and plug this in it would be goodnuff.

 

[sandstone92vr4]

@jrhorne na man start it up and foot to the floor. What are you a woman? Haha yes I let it warm up before getting mean, I’m nice to my stuff. But like today I start it, it’s cold out here today like 30 degrees, I go to get on the highway and shift in to 2nd and once there’s a load on the engine the knock sensor gets pissed. I have felt 6-8 knock under load and could feel the engine retard itself, under these conditions where it reads 26–27 it’s definitely not pulling timing. I have the lcdbc alarm to go off over 5 knock so i get yelled at and look down and it’s a pattern I’ve noticed. Car is cold and first time it gets a decent load on the engine it goes off. My afrs never show any craziness and the car doesn’t drive differently.

 

[stevecooper]

Knock counts like that (6 7 8 at full throttle) happen when the knock sensor is broken or disconnected..

 

[sandstone92vr4]

Hmm. I don’t think it’s broken but hey maybe. I saw knock counts like that due to time issues. Haven’t seen anything over 2-3 since returning to stock injectors. That was when I hit 14.9psi on accident

 

[TurboSinceBirth]

It’ll see constant numbers 7-9 when the knock sensor goes not intermittently from my experience and many others.

You’ll have to datalog it when it knocks under those warm up conditions to see why it is doing that.

You can use that OBD1 to usb cable you have but I don’t recall the Evoscan settings for some of the menu options as well as the baud rate. You also won’t be able to see boost or wideband unless you had it wired on spare ecu pins. It should be completely different settings than datalogging pass through from the LCDBC using a usb to serial FTDI cable. I would get the FTDI chipped cable and log with Evoscan through the LCDBC. Antero gives you the exact settings for Evoscan with screenshots in his LCDBC manual and it works well.

 

[rossb]

Yup, use the serial cable with the LCDBC. Download the instructions from Antero's website and it shows you how to set up evoscan. If I recall correctly, all you need to do is change the baud rate, change the knock sum calculation, and add inputs for boost/WBO2/etc. Literally takes like 5 minutes to set up.

 

[sandstone92vr4]

Aint this world grand, itll be here today by 10pm for the low price of $32 lol. Also I am unsure what the lcdbc gets its temp info from, I would assume the coolant temp sensor. Driving home last night after putting it in I did notice my coolant temp was at 186 instead of 192 like its been, but I never noticed anything weird in the readings while the car warmed up. I used a NTK replacement. I dunno, Datalogging will be happening though so hopefully I learn from it! I do need to hook my wideband up to the LCDBC still, but that should be easy since they are about a foot apart.

 

[sandstone92vr4]

Aight, now we are in business. The bitch of this is I’ll be putting my montero back together all weekend since I should have the injectors back from getting cleaned (what a cluster f that was).

 

[rossb]

If you have the LCDBC under the ECU like Blackstealth suggests, you can run that cable along the passenger side of the center console and it looks pretty clean. The carpet is also kinda loose enough that you can feed it back in so the cable isn't always hanging out.

 

[sandstone92vr4]

So how do I make this change? My evoscan does not have boost (x*2-147)/10

 

[sandstone92vr4]

@rossb So I got that cable, hooked it up to the lcdbc, hooked it up to the laptop, it still says it cant find the cable. Settings are all correct but still nothing working.

openport1.3x selected
MITS (1G/12pin/mmc
Select ECU- EFI

I hit start datalogging and get a message ERROR: 1.3D or 1.3R or 1.3U/usb cable not responding. I try all other usb ports on computer, all ERROR.

LCDBC datalog is set to passthru. Where am I going wrong? Is there something I need to download with EVOSCAN?

Oh, and evoscan.com is down. This is beyond frustrating lol. EDIT:I guess it needs some type of driver for the cable? EDIT AGAIN: Messed around with it for an hour at work, going home now and giving up. Downloaded ecuflash and that did nothing. Im just not a computer wizard.

 

[sandstone92vr4]

Haha well I got home and looked in the trash and there’s this little disc that came with the cable, I assume I need that?

 

[rossb]

Haha well I got home and looked in the trash and there’s this little disc that came with the cable, I assume I need that?

Uh I didn't have to install any software to get the cable to work. Did you change the baud rate to the one the settings tell you to?