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Discussion Starter #1
Can you just somehow 'unplug' this solenoid to bypass it without redirecting lines and all that?

Also, it seems like there are actually 3 or so solenoids on the harness that's on the firewall, and I have no idea which one is the FPCS.

Anyone ever tinker with these things before? I'd like to eliminate mine in the easiest way possible.

Thanks!
 

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As long as the FPR is connected to a boost/vac source can't you get rid of the solenoid? I don't have any of those solenoids on my firewall anymore, it's actually almost bare. I don't have it anymore, i know that. Sorry I can't be more help but I got rid of that stuff awhile ago.

-Evan
 

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Locate your FPR and follow the vacuum line back to the fuel pressure solenoid, and that's how you know you've got the right solenoid.

Yes just unplugging the wire harness on the fuel pressure solenoid will bypass it without the hassle of rerouting the vacuum lines.
 

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I can certainly understand and agree with the idea of removing the solenoids and cleaning up the engine bay.. But I'm curious why you would go to the trouble to disable it, if you're not planning to remove it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, as per an email conversation with Jeff L., I've learned that it's the likely culprit of my 'warm start' issue. And since I'm new to the TT world and have no experience with re-routing vac lines and all that, I thought it would be easier just unplug the solenoid (if possible), rather than deal with the headache of trying to figure out where all those lines go and what to do with them.
 

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Well, as per an email conversation with Jeff L., I've learned that it's the likely culprit of my 'warm start' issue. And since I'm new to the TT world and have no experience with re-routing vac lines and all that, I thought it would be easier just unplug the solenoid (if possible), rather than deal with the headache of trying to figure out where all those lines go and what to do with them.
If you do not have emissions testing, just remove all they solenoids, its not that hard. If you have a boost controller its even easier. Here is how to do the vacuum reduction.

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/vacuum-hose-reduction-walkthrough-pics-359412/
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the link, Aaron - however, that's exactly the kind of project I don't want to get involved in. I don't want to eliminate the EGR and all that, because I'm sure I wouldn't be able to pass emissions if I do. THEN I'd probably have to put all that crap back in anyways. I'm just trying to keep it as stock as possible and hopefully take care of the issue that I'm having.

On that note, does anyone know exactly what to unplug on that solnoid bracket? There seems to be a few connectors there... ?
 

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OK I understand disabling it for diagnostic purposes.. the connector you want to disconnect it on the solenoid itself...

I don't know what the problem is that you're having, but I am sceptical that the solenoid is causing it.. It's purpose in life is to raise the fuel pressure on a hot start to stabilize the idle in the event of fuel percolation.. It really doesn't make that much difference, and if it's malfunctioning, It will usually just not work.. In that event, disabling it is just redundant..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
1Forest - thanks for the diagram.. for some reason it didn't load for me earlier and I didn't see it at all. That should help me a lot :)

And yes, I know it sounds totally redundant, but after spending hundreds of dollars at the dealership and getting absolutely nowhere, I email Jeff Lucius and got the following response:

"Hi Myron,

It sounds like the common "hot hard-start" issues many of the 3S cars sometimes experience, usually after the car sits briefly (less than an hour?) on hot summer days. My '92 TT also has done this in the distant past. Below is from my web page Stealth 316 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Upgrade (about half way down). I doubt it is the IAC/ISC (BTW, the intake manifold does not need to be removed; see http://stealth316.com/2-isc-iac.htm). And your experience should be a lesson to avoid Dodge (especially Dodge!) or Mitsu dealers for diagnosis or repair issues. :)

'The fuel pressure control solenoid (or valve) is used by the engine control unit (ECU) only to increase fuel pressure during hot engine starts when there is a greater possibility of fuel vapor being generated in the fuel lines. When the air intake temperature exceeds 140ºF (60ºC) and the engine coolant temperature exceeds 194ºF (90ºC), the ECU uses the fuel pressure control solenoid (for up to two minutes) to allow outside air into the vacuum hoses to increase fuel pressure. In addition, the ECU increases fuel injector activation duration (richens the mixture). These two actions by the ECU are what I believe is a cause of the hot-engine hard-start condition I and many others have experienced on a hot summer day after turning the engine off for a short while. The engine acts like it is flooded for maybe a minute then runs fine. Because this is the only purpose of the fuel pressure control solenoid, I decided to remove it. I don't think there is much we can do about this part of the ECU programming short of going to stand-alone engine management. Owners that have removed the fuel pressure control solenoid, whether upgrading to an aftermarket FPR or not, have not reported problems related to this. I will update this web page if I encounter problems.'

I removed the FP solenoid before attending the Nat Gathering in St. Louis years ago. I had no problems there in the mid-90's temps, even with brief stops."

The way I see it, why wouldn't I try this simple fix and see what happens?
 

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Thanks for the link, Aaron - however, that's exactly the kind of project I don't want to get involved in. I don't want to eliminate the EGR and all that, because I'm sure I wouldn't be able to pass emissions if I do. THEN I'd probably have to put all that crap back in anyways. I'm just trying to keep it as stock as possible and hopefully take care of the issue that I'm having.

On that note, does anyone know exactly what to unplug on that solnoid bracket? There seems to be a few connectors there... ?
Its the solenoid with the filter coming out of it. Its the top one that is mounted horizontally.
 
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