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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
About to order a replacement fuel filter, likely going with the one linked below, but just checking first if there is any good reason to go with something else?
'93 VR4, plan to keep stock (or mostly anyway).
I searched, found some very old threads without much info so figured it wouldn't hurt to ask

Any opinions, shoot, Thanks!

I'll be going down the list of things to troubleshoot/fix for my hesitation/loss of power issues that are intermittent, so figured this is a relatively easy/cheap fix that may solve some problems.

WIX 33500 Fuel filter from Rock Auto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=360058&cc=1434250&jsn=11615
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've seen pricey options (fuel lab filters on 3sx for example), just curious on what makes them so much better... greater flow capacity and increased filtration sure, but necessary? (guessing not on a stock setup)
 

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Larger filters will be less restrictive than a smaller filter with a comparable element. How important that is depends on how much fuel the engine needs. The fuel lab filters are essentially rebuildable which is a large portion of the cost, open it up and change out the filter element. A stock car isn't going to need something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, that's what I figured, think I'll order the one I linked!
 

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1991 VR4
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How was shipping from RockAuto? I cant recall if its free...

I actually just ordered a new fuel filter a few days ago. I looked at RockAuto and AutoZone but was a little concerned about ordering anything other than OEM... so i ended up going OEM from 3sx. The price of the fitler wasnt bad but shipping of $20 is pretty annoying.

Side note, as mentioned on all the other threads, you need new copper crush washers when replacing the filter. 3sx has them, so i just got the filter and washers all at once.
 

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Rock Auto charges pretty close to actual shipping, I usually try to wait till I need a number of things for various vehicles and order it all at once. The only downside is that they have multiple warehouses and if your parts are not coming from the same one it costs more than you'd expect.

Good call on the crush washer, I can't remember what I did for those.
 

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Money pit owner.
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there's a 5% discount code in the rockauto folder too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
old thread, but figured I may as well add pictures as I finally got around to replacing the fuel filter today:) I ended up ordering the stock filter from 3SX as that's all I really needed: Stock Fuel Filter + Attached Parts

I used the 3s wiki as a general guide (which is great), and decided I'd take my own pictures in case it ends up helping someone else down the road. (I always find the more pictures the better when I'm looking up a how-to on a project).


Start by disconnecting the fuel pump (which is located under the carpet in the trunk, under the passenger side tray):

IMG_20200409_134918.jpg Just added this pic because I have no idea what these wires are for/from?... any input on that would be cool
IMG_20200409_135154.jpg fuel pump (located in trunk under the passenger side tray under the carpet)
IMG_20200409_135428.jpg fuel pump showing it disconnected. Cranked the car over for about 10sec with it disconnected, then reconnected and reinstalled everything in the trunk.
IMG_20200409_142057.jpg battery and tray/washer fluid rmoved/put to the side. (you don't need to remove the washer fluid bottle, you can just disconnect the electrical plug and lay it on the plenum)
IMG_20200409_143733.jpg looking in to the fuel filter (I've got a light down there and blue shop towels underneath the filter (to catch any small leakage of gas during removal)
IMG_20200409_143813.jpg 9/16" flare wrench (I didn't have a #14 as recommended, but this worked just fine). Twisting the wrench from left to right to loosen in this picture. 19mm wrench to stabilize by holding the end of the "C" tube" if required.
IMG_20200409_144325.jpg 19mm wrench twisting in direction my finger is pointing to loosen the top bolt (be careful not to lose the copper washer). (can use another wrench lower to stabilize if needed).
IMG_20200409_150421.jpg old filter removed
IMG_20200409_150447.jpg 12mm socket for the 2 bolts attaching this to the firewall. There are rubber grommets with a metal sleeve which easily pop out of the old bracket with a flathead screwdriver which are saved/put back into the new filter bracket.
IMG_20200409_150734.jpg Don't lose this copper washer! (this is the top bolt. there is also one of these on the bottom bolt if you removed that instead of the bolt at the "C tube" like I did).


Just a few more pics to finish up in next post!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
reserved for pics

IMG_20200409_151132.jpg top bolt reinstalled, showing the wrenches used for reinstalling bolt/line into "C tube" hardline. 9/16" flare or 14mm if you have it (twisting right to left in this picture to tighten), and a 19mm to stabilize.

IMG_20200409_151142.jpg view from farther back

IMG_20200409_151322.jpg all tools I needed for the job (plus a #2 Phillips for the screws in the trunk)

IMG_20200409_153236.jpg view once completed looking down between the battery and the firewall.


That's it! Honestly thought it was going to more of a pain from some of the threads I read, but this worked out pretty smoothly, having the right tools helps I guess. Probably about an hour to complete, but who's counting when you've got a beer or 2 inbetween:)
 

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First picture of the wires is for a CD changer. FWIW...

Bob.
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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View attachment 287176 Don't lose this copper washer! (this is the top bolt. there is also one of these on the bottom bolt if you removed that instead of the bolt at the "C tube" like I did).
Should have been two washers on top and bottom bolts (4 total). One on each side of banjo fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Should have been two washers on top and bottom bolts (4 total). One on each side of banjo fitting.
hm well sh*t... I didn't notice that, but there definitely wasn't anything that fell off... so I guess hopefully it was stuck on underneath? Ran the car without hearing/seeing/smelling any leaks though so at least that's good.
 

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1991 VR4
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As noted above you are supposed to have 4 washers total. They are copper crush washers and they are supposed to be replaced when you replace the filter. You probably want to check for leaks intermittently to make sure none show up.

Also, i always skip the step about unplugging fuel pump and running system dry. Ive never had any issues doing this with fuel filter, injectors, etc. No spray out and just a tiny bit of fuel comes out, which is pretty much gonna happen anyways with where the filter is located.
 

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FYI if you guys have a local Mitsubishi dealership they are still readily available. $26 total for the filter and washers, with a two day turn around.
 
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