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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I finished my turbo swap last week, but the rear turbo is still smoking. I can see why a turbo would smoke when it's being broken in (graphite, or spilled coolant or oil), but the rear is still smoking a bit. Also, I've got a little bit of coolant leaking (possibly from the rear turbo feed or return line, which could be causing the smoke), and the "low coolant" light in the dash is flickering whenever I go around a corner, or make any sort of movement such as that. Anyone have any Ideas? Any input is very much appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Hey Joe,

Damn will it ever end!!;) . I do remember you telling me that when you installed the rear turbo it was not quite aligned(did you mean exhaust housing to compressor housing?). Did you loosen the 10mm bolt and turn it to align properly with the coolant lines and oil feed? That's the only thing I can think of if you still loosing coolant. Even if you think its tight the angle may cause come fluids to exit??? Is there a puddle in that location after you shut down? Other than that:( is it running fine??

Tony
 

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Yeah, i would look at where that buckle is for that housing clamp. I had to move mine. I didnt realize it until after i had tried wrenching on the line and still not getting it all the way in. Also, are both washers on there? You must have 2 washers on each bolt. If both of those are good, then it should be A-ok (unless possibly you are cross-threading your bolt).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The front turbo was the one with the 4" ring clamp that wasn't on right. That's not the problematic one either. I think I just didn't tighten down one of the coolant lines on the rear turbo, or, as F27 said I may have forgotten the washers. Shouldn't be a big deal though. I know it's comming from the turbo though, the puddle (how very small it is) is in the same location and the thing's smoking. It only drops a bit after it sits for a little while. On or off. I probably just need to tighten one of the bolts.

Tony, nothing was wrong with either turbo (aside from the clamp, which was on the front turbo), the oil and coolant lines didn't seem to fit on though (which I fixed). So, it was almost like it didn't fit right. Bolted to the exhaust manifold and the O2 housing just fine. My only kinks I'm working out now (after curing my overheating problem... 25% coolant to 75% water doesn't work, neither does the cracked coolant hose. Then stalling problem... danged vacuum hoses) are the slight coolant drip, mildly erratic Idle and flashing coolant light. I think if I fix the coolant drip then the light will stop flashing, as for the funky Idle, i'm not sure what's causing that (bad temp sensor?). It idles high most of the time(screw on the TB is closed as far as possible), but occasionally drops to 900rpms until I tap the gas. Either way it's not emissions legal until I get the Idle fixed.

Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I'm still puzzled as to how it's leaking. Both bolts are tight and have their respective washers on still, but it's still leaking. I think the oil feed line isn't on right and that's why it's smoking. Probably leaking a little oil (you had the same problem, right F27?) I had to "trim" and use a hose clamp on one of the coolant lines that connects to the bottom of the throttle body, it was cracked and leaking badly when I started up my car the first time. Spewing coolant everywhere. I think that could be it, but other than that, I'm stumped. Also, the coolant seems to be dropping from the turbo, not from the coolant line (I'm too tired to check if the line that was cracked is still leaking, that'll come tomorrow), so I'm not sure what the deal is. hopefully it's nothing big. Thanks again guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tightened up the lower radiator hose and made sure that both bolts on each turbo were tight. I started it and let it run (though not under boost just yet) and wrapped it up a few times, and no smoke from the back end, no coolant drip, no smoking turbo (I did drive it for about an hour this morning too.) I'm about to go take it for a good two hour drive and check it every half hour. I'm praying that everything is back in order! A funny thing happened this morning though. I warmed my car up, and the oil pressure gauge didn't even twitch. It stayed right at the bottom. I checked the oil, dipstick said it was ok. But it still wouldn't twitch. I even wrapped it up (only to 3K, still not smart, I know) and it didn't move. I added a quart of oil and after a few minutes it started to move again. Any Ideas? bad Oil pump? (the gauge is reporting normally now, even when I shut off the car then turn it back on after an hour or so) The dipstick said there was enough oil in the engine, but the gauge said there was no pressure. Not sure, I'll check it again tomorrow morning and make sure all's well.
 

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Hmm, sticky gauge perhaps? My tachometer is doing funky stuff like that lately. Ah, the problems never end.

Well, if you continue to see smoke, i would still wait a few more days. Mine took almost a week to burn all the stuff out. (Yes, i spilled A LOT!) The only way to know if you are still leaking is to actually see the fluid right next to the line entrance.

BTW, im still working on my oil feed line. I messed with it today and we'll see what it does tomorrow.
 
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