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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got around to pulling the ECU and inspecting. Symptoms I've been having - Hard starting fairly often, has gotten worse lately. (No hotwire so definitely a little click click contributing to the problem). Bucking under load, intermittently. Misfiring at times as well. This issue has been occurring on and off for a year. New plugs, new wires, small boost/vac leak. Fuel pressure was good last time I checked. New battery has died multiple times lately, although the car isn't driven much. Got a new alternator after slightly low readings on battery under load (Installing this week). After a jump start the other day I had my "Sport" and "Tour" mode lights flashing at the same time, and the speedometer does not read now, or if it does it bounces around and drops to zero. Sport and Tour lights are magically back to normal now.

I would really appreciate any of you with some experience in ECU problems taking a look at these images and letting me know what you think. The layer of black stuff below one of the caps look almost like glue of some sort but I would not know. The underside of the board looks pretty bad IMO, and the corroded connections appear to be underneath the capacitors :cautious:. All of the caps are branded "Mallory". Ecu has sharpie writing on it that reads "EEX for NW3S", what does this mean? I attached a picture.

Picture gallery


1. Is it fucked?
2. Is it repairable?
3. Has it been repaired before?
4. Should I repair or buy new based on damage?
5. What are everyone's opinions on the Jester ECUs sold at 3SX?

Thanks guys.

If not ECU thinking PTU/Coils could be the culprit.
 

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1: Maybe
2: Don't bother
3: Yes
4: Replace
5: Don't know. If you don't have a modified car and don't plan to modify it, there's no point getting one.

I've seen "repaired" ECUs look way worse than that and still work fine, on the other hand I've seen "repaired" ECUs which look great and have repairs carried out to a high standard but you plug them in and they're fucked.

In all honesty, the only way you're going to rule it out is to fit a known good ECU in its place and see if it fixes your problems.

Re. your sport and tour lights (and possibly the speedo issue), pull your ECS ECU and check that for leaking capacitors. Better yet, unplugging your fucked ECS ECU might make your other problems magically disappear.
 

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1. Yes it's fucked.

2. Maybe...but I doubt it. That blown caps looks like it leaked/burned and made it through the top layer of the board.

3. Yes, 100% it's been "repaired". I'm pretty sure all the capacitors on the 1g boards were brown in color(MD159966 is a 91/92 ECU), so those were all replaced you can see where they scratched the PCB replacing them. Looks like one of those capacitors also blew and leaked over the board. The vertical EPROM chip beside the blown cap also seems to have been replaced or just... desoldered for some reason? Looks like whoever was working on it tried to resolder it but a super shitty job. I can't remember off the top of my head exactly but that either controls the injectors or the coils.

4. I mean I'm not electronics repair expert, but I'd say your shit's fucked.

5. The going opinion is that the Chromed ECU is the best "plug and play" option around. It'll support most conservative power goals and allows you to change injector sizes while keeping a "stock" liek operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1: Maybe
2: Don't bother
3: Yes
4: Replace
5: Don't know. If you don't have a modified car and don't plan to modify it, there's no point getting one.

I've seen "repaired" ECUs look way worse than that and still work fine, on the other hand I've seen "repaired" ECUs which look great and have repairs carried out to a high standard but you plug them in and they're fucked.

In all honesty, the only way you're going to rule it out is to fit a known good ECU in its place and see if it fixes your problems.

Re. your sport and tour lights (and possibly the speedo issue), pull your ECS ECU and check that for leaking capacitors. Better yet, unplugging your fucked ECS ECU might make your other problems magically disappear.
Thanks. Will inspect ECS ECU asap. If I was to replace ECU Jester is half the price of an OEM 92' FED spec, that is the main reason for consideration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1. Yes it's fucked.

2. Maybe...but I doubt it. That blown caps looks like it leaked/burned and made it through the top layer of the board.

3. Yes, 100% it's been "repaired". I'm pretty sure all the capacitors on the 1g boards were brown in color(MD159966 is a 91/92 ECU), so those were all replaced you can see where they scratched the PCB replacing them. Looks like one of those capacitors also blew and leaked over the board. The vertical EPROM chip beside the blown cap also seems to have been replaced or just... desoldered for some reason? Looks like whoever was working on it tried to resolder it but a super shitty job. I can't remember off the top of my head exactly but that either controls the injectors or the coils.

4. I mean I'm not electronics repair expert, but I'd say your shit's fucked.

5. The going opinion is that the Chromed ECU is the best "plug and play" option around. It'll support most conservative power goals and allows you to change injector sizes while keeping a "stock" liek operation.
Thanks Ross (y)
 
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