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Senior Member
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4,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I got the engine on the stand yesterday and today after work started to pull everything because I was going to pull the heads... but it didnt end there and I got the block all torn down it is just the bare block now with everything off... now what do I do?

This is what I have so far......

Forged Pistons
Swain Coat the pistons
Heads are getting done and then swain coated also (combustion chamber)
Hot tank the block
Rods are getting Shot peened and polished then cryotreated
Already have the forged crank with 30k miles on it. (from last rebuild)
Balance the rotating assembly
ARP Rod bolts
Clevite bearings
Blueprint the block

what else should I get done? I am getting the upper and lower intake manifolds port matched.. might also get the big bore TB and match the intake to that..... I have heard of chamfering the oil passages but I am not sure what that is? can someone explain and should I do this? Not sure what else should be done at the machine shop that is benificial?
 

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Senior Member
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4,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Oh btw the good news the engine was perfect except for the spots on the top of the pistons where the valves scuffed them up from hitting... the cylinder walls still had the crosshatching on them.. only one little spot on cylinder 3 was the wall polished at all.. or maybe it was 4? who knows I am not looking at it now :D
 

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Registered
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392 Posts
Chamfering the oil passages helps with oil drain-back but is not critical to a rebuild. Basically anywhere there is an oil hole, you chamfer (grind) a radius to eliminate sharp corners and casting burrs. The most common place to do this is in the lifter valley between the cylinder banks. Some builders go as far as painting the interior of the valley with a special coating (glyptal) which aids in oil drain back. It's overkill but makes the inside of your engine look cool :) Check out Eastwood Co. for the paint if you are interested. http://www.eastwoodco.com

You can also grind the casting flash from the block. This flash is present wherever a parting line occurred in the mold. Over time the flash can fall off and get into the oil system. I have not looked at the Mitsu block so I do not know how good of a casting it is, but it can't hurt to use a dremel and grind down any sharp flash.

If you do any grinding get the block hot tanked before painting and reassembly. You need to get everything as clean as possible.

Have fun,
 

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Big Kid
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2,781 Posts
sounds like you are on the right track. Thats about all you can do except make sure you run a tap in all your engine bolt holes to make sure they are true and clean. this will ensure propper torquing of all bolts. Yoy may also want to use copper gasket spray on your head, exhaust and intake gaskets for good sealing.
 
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