Yesterday I went to go and replace my passenger window assembly and it did not work with the new one, after reattaching the old one and putting everything back together neither of my windows worked. Now after going for a drive today I noticed my gauge pods in the center console, none of them were working, my tachometer was not working, and my turn signals are not working but my hazards do. Anybody have any ideas?
You might be but man you’re hanging in there and I might say doing a good job . I’m sorry about not being able to help you, just been crazy here with computer stopping when ever it fells like it. Not to mention wife and I dealing with governor suggesting 65 + self quarantine because of covid 19 virus, we both fall in that category and are in the most concentrated area in Virginia and location of only two deaths in state.
As little that I’ve been able to catch up and check prints, I think you’re mostly right about door jam 21 pin connector since its one common item dealing with all the right door problems. Since fuse and relay where taken out by work he did in right door, there’s a chance a voltage spike also damaged (one-touch down circuit) in drivers door which might have disabled ability to roll it down.
Exactly, unless the short burnt power pins in right door jam connector and took out that auto down circuit in left door. It would be good to also know if fog lights work on relay he removed from window relay socket.
I get that it might be a bad etacs, but the mirrors have nothing (I can see) to do with that....
1) The right door switch shares same wiring in left door dual window switches. If short occurred in right door switch and cause damage to the one-touch down circuit of left door that MAYBE could have disabled the normal down operation for that door.
2)The ETACS, has a timer that allows windows to work for 30 seconds after ignition turned off before disabling all windows. If damage there, possibly it hasn’t allowed either door windows to continue normal operation.
Then possibility more than one problem, like window lock switch disabling right door window and one-touch down disabling left window. Or worst nothing that we’ve thought about yet.
Not necessarily, meant to say could be ETACS stopping both windows or damaged auto-down stopping drivers side and damaged wiring stopping passenger side, and possible even mirror.
I was just trying to answer how the passenger side could have caused drivers side to quit working. Might have confused you which wouldn’t be a surprise, hell sometimes when I read something I wrote later it confuses ME!
Bob, it seems obvious that he did something in passenger door that took out relay and fuse. Until that is found and repaired as you suggested by checking things in that door, he or us won’t know what to address next.
So a new revelation to my issue. I did nothing to the electronics and somehow my power to the right side came back. The door light is back, the powered locks are back, and my powered mirror is back. I have new switches on the way to replace both door switches so hopefully that’s what it is and this fixes the issue
So a new revelation to my issue. I did nothing to the electronics and somehow my power to the right side came back. The door light is back, the powered locks are back, and my powered mirror is back.........
That sounds just like a problem with right door wire bundle/plug in door jam. That plug has a release lever that allows it to be unplugged where it enters door. I suspect there’s an issue with pins themselves or breaks in wire bundle where they bend when door is opened and closed (common). Or problem with wires in door to that plug (uncommon), unless from your work.
As you can see, the power for the window switch comes from that Pink 30 Amp Fuse, then through the Power Window relay (I am assuming here that the relay is energized by the keyswitch), then into the switch itself through pin 9 of E-34 (the main connector at the Drivers Side Door Switch assembly). If you can pull that connection, turn the key to the accessories position, and measure pin 9 of the connector (not the switch side), and if you see 12VDC, the problem is most likely with the switch itself. If you don't it would suggest that the problem lies somewhere between the relay and the connector.
I "think" the ETACS UNIT input (labeled B in the downard facing triangle) is providing power to the switch so that you can move the window up and down for a short time (determined by the ETACS) after the key has been turned off.
Don, please feel free to correct me or add any additional thoughts...I hope you are doing well, sir.
Actually I think "A" is powered by the ETACS, and keeps the windows active by leaving the relay on. "B" is just a ground.
It's still a good test but if there's no power to pin 9 it could still be the ETACS. At least It would give us a direction to go in though.
Who’s this – Fake Don guy …. He’s not one of those Fake exspurts is he?
Only thing I’ll add is I think “A” is also a ground, that is switched on/off by ETACS to activate window relay and it actual uses the ETACS hard ground at “B” triangle when it switches on the ground.
An actual expert can correct me if wrong.
Edit: By the way I’m doing well….. except maybe for mental issues.
The way I see it power ~12 volts is supplied to pin 5 & pin 1 of relay as per your diagram. ETACS is activated by ignition switch and makes an internal ground connection between “A” from pin 3 to hard ground “B” closing relay and supplying power to windows. When switch is turned off ETACS uses its constant power from fusible link 6, to hold ground closed internally until its timer runs out, then opens ground disabling windows. This process is what allows you to still roll down windows for short period after turning key off, unless a door is opened which immediately disables windows. So A & B are always needed no matter the key position.
I’m sure you can follow this by noticing “A” Blue/yellow wire continues to next page diagram dealing with ETACS. The “A” is missing in the pdf format but you’ll see “power windows relay” and the wire is missing the Y but the L for blue is there. It goes to the ETACS (pin# also missing) but you can see internal transistor, timer and internal ground. If you look at pin 57/59 it feeds to “B” triangle which is same as one on page you supplied.
Thank You Don.
If I haven't mentioned it in the past (pretty sure I have) that I am a (retired) Software Engineer, with just enough knowledge of electrical/electronics to get me in trouble.
I am always eager to learn and listen to those who are more skilled than I.
I continue to try to help members, and I always love when are REALLY knowledgeable members step in and give their insight.
This forum is NOT dead, some of it's members are LONG TIME (ie older). I am not surprised to see them (and A LOT of younger technically savvy) are still hanging around.
Yeah I should has said that better. The ETACS doesn't "power" any of this. Power is from fuse link 9.
When the key is turned on ETACS pin 52 gets power, signaling it to turn on the transistor at pin 7(5), point "A", turning the relay on. When the key is turned off the ETACS keeps the relay on for a bit, using an internal timer and the constant power on pin 51. Point "B" is a hard ground for both the auto-down switch and the ETACS, pin 59(57).
I hesitate calling point "A" ground because it is through a transistor and should not be confused with, or used as, a hard ground.
* pins 7 & 59 on cars with the anti-theft system, pins 5 & 57 on cars without.
So pretty much what RealDon said, with a few of the missing pin numbers...
You’re correct… I too should have said that better, like control leg maybe. This goes to show that three minds are better than one…… I only wish I had a whole one.......
Edit: changed wording to control leg, I like that even better.
OK so I am off work today and I have the panels off of the car doors and I’m looking at them now apparently the motor on the driver side was never plugged back in and that fixed that issue. The passenger side is not working however when I started unplugging and plugging back in the door jam connector now my powered locks are acting up again. Sometimes they want to lock and then unlock immediately other times they won’t work at all. Since I half the time what should we be checking
Unlocking and re-locking has been discussed in the past. The rubber "bumper" in the lock mechanism wears out and causes just what you experienced.
The locks not working at all and the passenger window still not working still appeared to be tied to the wiring in the passenger door.
OR (in the case of the passenger window) have you accidentally depressed the window lock button on the drivers door (common mistake)?
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