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UGH.
I am right there with you.
I am 63, at supposed high risk, with 60+ positive cases in our state.
FUCK YOU Coronavirus. Excuse me....

I can not understand why, when he swapped the relay,it did NOT get back the windows, along with the lumbar and bolster functions...

I get that it might be a bad etacs, but the mirrors have nothing (I can see) to do with that....

The whole right side thing is puzzling..
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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I can not understand why, when he swapped the relay,it did NOT get back the windows, along with the lumbar and bolster functions...
Exactly, unless the short burnt power pins in right door jam connector and took out that auto down circuit in left door. It would be good to also know if fog lights work on relay he removed from window relay socket.

I get that it might be a bad etacs, but the mirrors have nothing (I can see) to do with that....
Right again no connection to the mirror.
 

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This is THE most confusing electrical thing I can remember, and I have been involved (personally and here) that I can think of.

I am thinking, that as he replaced the passenger window motor, he somehow shorted that whole bundle and broke leads, I have no clue.

Pretty sure the power window relay got whacked. After a swap with the fog light relay, the lumbar and bolster now work.

Right side no power...like we both suggested, some issue at the 21 pin connector...

But HOW, does all of this effect the still not working drivers window?
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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But HOW, does all of this effect the still not working drivers window?
Off top pf my head there’s two possibilities:

1) The right door switch shares same wiring in left door dual window switches. If short occurred in right door switch and cause damage to the one-touch down circuit of left door that MAYBE could have disabled the normal down operation for that door.
2)The ETACS, has a timer that allows windows to work for 30 seconds after ignition turned off before disabling all windows. If damage there, possibly it hasn’t allowed either door windows to continue normal operation.

Then possibility more than one problem, like window lock switch disabling right door window and one-touch down disabling left window. Or worst nothing that we’ve thought about yet.:whistle::(
 

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So, you think the problem is in the drivers side switch unit?

Still wanting to know how this effects the passenger mirror...

Bob.
 

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So, you think the problem is in the drivers side switch unit?
Not necessarily, meant to say could be ETACS stopping both windows or damaged auto-down stopping drivers side and damaged wiring stopping passenger side, and possible even mirror.

I was just trying to answer how the passenger side could have caused drivers side to quit working. Might have confused you which wouldn’t be a surprise, hell sometimes when I read something I wrote later it confuses ME!o_O:D
 

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Bob, it seems obvious that he did something in passenger door that took out relay and fuse. Until that is found and repaired as you suggested by checking things in that door, he or us won’t know what to address next.
 

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Bob, it seems obvious that he did something in passenger door that took out relay and fuse. Until that is found and repaired as you suggested by checking things in that door, he or us won’t know what to address next.
Hey DON (I'm sorry that I called you ED earlier....oldheimers kickin in...LOL), I wonder if the OP figured it out?
 

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1992 3000GT SL
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Discussion Starter #69
No sorry I’ve been busy with work and haven’t had a chance to actually look into it again
 

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You must have a pretty important job, since a large part of the nation is either not working, or possibly working from home.

We'll be here (hopefully) when you get back to it...

Bob.
 

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Yesterday I went to go and replace my passenger window assembly and it did not work with the new one, after reattaching the old one and putting everything back together neither of my windows worked. Now after going for a drive today I noticed my gauge pods in the center console, none of them were working, my tachometer was not working, and my turn signals are not working but my hazards do. Anybody have any ideas?
it's your button on drivers side the one on driver side controls all electrical to all buttons .that side get used the most
 

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it's your button on drivers side the one on driver side controls all electrical to all buttons .that side get used the most
Have you read anything in this thread besides the first post?
Hrmm...joined a MOMENT ago and you have all the answers...
Do you own one of these cars?

Bob.
 
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Discussion Starter #75
So a new revelation to my issue. I did nothing to the electronics and somehow my power to the right side came back. The door light is back, the powered locks are back, and my powered mirror is back. I have new switches on the way to replace both door switches so hopefully that’s what it is and this fixes the issue
 

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So a new revelation to my issue. I did nothing to the electronics and somehow my power to the right side came back. The door light is back, the powered locks are back, and my powered mirror is back.........
That sounds just like a problem with right door wire bundle/plug in door jam. That plug has a release lever that allows it to be unplugged where it enters door. I suspect there’s an issue with pins themselves or breaks in wire bundle where they bend when door is opened and closed (common). Or problem with wires in door to that plug (uncommon), unless from your work.
 

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286875


As you can see, the power for the window switch comes from that Pink 30 Amp Fuse, then through the Power Window relay (I am assuming here that the relay is energized by the keyswitch), then into the switch itself through pin 9 of E-34 (the main connector at the Drivers Side Door Switch assembly). If you can pull that connection, turn the key to the accessories position, and measure pin 9 of the connector (not the switch side), and if you see 12VDC, the problem is most likely with the switch itself. If you don't it would suggest that the problem lies somewhere between the relay and the connector.

I "think" the ETACS UNIT input (labeled B in the downard facing triangle) is providing power to the switch so that you can move the window up and down for a short time (determined by the ETACS) after the key has been turned off.

Don, please feel free to correct me or add any additional thoughts...I hope you are doing well, sir.

Bob.
 

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Actually I think "A" is powered by the ETACS, and keeps the windows active by leaving the relay on. "B" is just a ground.
It's still a good test but if there's no power to pin 9 it could still be the ETACS. At least It would give us a direction to go in though.

- Fake Don.. ;)
 

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Smartypants!!
Thanks for the correction, I should have seen the ground signal near the "B" :)

I hope you too, are doing OK, sir....

Bob.
 
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