Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner

1 - 20 of 94 Posts

·
Registered
1992 3000GT SL
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I went to go and replace my passenger window assembly and it did not work with the new one, after reattaching the old one and putting everything back together neither of my windows worked. Now after going for a drive today I noticed my gauge pods in the center console, none of them were working, my tachometer was not working, and my turn signals are not working but my hazards do. Anybody have any ideas?
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
I would start with checking fuse #9 under the hood. It is pink. 30A. That fuse is for the power window circuit.

I'm still trying to figure out how your hazards are working, but your turn signals are not...

Bob.
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
Try checking the under dash fuse #11, it is in the second row of fuses, second from the right...
 

·
Registered
1992 3000GT SL
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yep the #11 fuse was burnt out so my turn signals, tach, and center gauges are back but I still have my powered window problem. Windows won’t go up or down but the powered locks still work
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
I believe that on the back side of the interior fuse box, there are some relays.
I have not had to deal with them before, so I am not 100% how they are oriented, but the manual shows that the bottom right relay is the power window relay.
I "think" that since it's on the back side, it would look from the front side of the box, that it is the lower left relay.

Attached is a pic from the manual....
286720


If the pink fuse #9 (30 amp) is good, the relay is the next suspect component.

Again, I've not had to mess with it, so I may be wrong about where and how it is located...

Bob.
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
First off, did you find it and get it out?

If yes, I will try to answer your question in a bit...
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
286721


I believe the relay you have is closed on the bottom (around the pins) but the circuit is the same.
If you take and apply 12vdc across the pins labeled 85 and 86 (not sure of polarity) but when correctly oriented, you should
a) hear the internal relay click
b) if you had a meter reading resistance (or better yet continuity) you would see near zero resistance (or continuity) across pins 87 and 30, when the relay clicks (power is applied)
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
I have a feeling (and I very well could be wrong), that whatever you did to cause fuse #11 to blow may have also damaged the circuitry in the pin 85 and 86 circuit shown (coil and a diode, I believe, and I think maybe the coil opened???)

EDIT: which leads me to an easier way to test that relay. If you have a meter that measures resistance, measure across pins 85 and 86 (you may have to measure in both directions [ie swap leads on terminals]) and tell me what you get...
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
Where are the electrical wizards when you need them? (inside joke)
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
I measure a similar relay here and also got ~ 75 ohms, so I "think" the coil is good.
Do you have a 12 volt power supply of some sort (I really don't want to use the car battery to do this).
If so, try the test I mentioned first.

The coil may be good, but the "switch" may not be closing (contacts are bad).

If that test checks out (you see near zero resistance when power applied) then it looks like the main switch is next...

I have to leave for a bit, but will check back in...
 

·
Registered
93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
Joined
·
1,997 Posts
OhioSpyderman has been doing good job with advice, but before go to much further also check fusible link fuse #6 under hood and #19 fuse under dash as it is for the ETACS unit that has to activate window relay.

Edit: First check #19 fuse under dash (lower right fuse), if you have power to it no need to check #6 fusible link under hood. Then just make sure #19 is good.
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
Woot! An EXPERT has arrived!!! ^^^^^

Bob.
 

·
Registered
93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
Joined
·
1,997 Posts
Woot! An EXPERT has arrived!!! ^^^^^

Bob.
Someone once told me the definition of expert was EX = has been SPURT = drip under pressure. By the way you also know the person that gave me that definition, but I shouldn’t disclose him.:)
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
13,419 Posts
If he didn't have #19, would the car even start?

Hrmm, I see the ECU is fed through the ignition switch through fuse #12.

Does #19 just keep the ECU's parameters alive?
 

·
Registered
93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
Joined
·
1,997 Posts
If he didn't have #19, would the car even start?
Does #19 just keep the ECU's parameters alive?
Excellent questions, will have to review for answers because it is only one of fuses for ECU as you’ve already mentioned. I’ve been preoccupied with puter issues and we’re located in one of the Covid 19 hot spots in Virginia.

Edit: Not sure about if engine would even start with 19 blown, but it's save to say it does maintain ECU parameters (any that might be stored in temporary memory) as it’s a constant (un-switched) power for it. The main power is the #12 fuse you’ve already mentioned, which would definitely disable engine.
 
1 - 20 of 94 Posts
Top