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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
deep breath...

welp, just installed a set of Eibach springs on my '93 RT TT last night. I picked the springs up from carparts.com when they had the sale 33% off any order over 100 bux (paid $184 for em). The process wasn't too bad, actually, once I knew what I was doing it was easy. I was fortunate enough to be with my friend that has a lift in his garage, so I didn't have to lay on the floor.


I installed the rear first and the first one took about 1.5 hours (had to figure out how to remove the rusty shock without hurting anything, gather all the right tools, etc). The rear springs weren't compressed all that much. In fact, I used a spring compressor on the first one but it released so little that I didn't even use a spring compressor on the second one (just an impact gun). Once I got the spring off I just put the new spring on in its place and put the shock back on the car. It was pretty easy, but it helped having some silicone spray for the top of the spring as the rubber is fairly stubborn without it. The second rear spring took about 20 mins (figured out the process) and was the same general process. I noticed when I was putting the springs back on that I couldn't compress the spring on the shock. The shock would push itself out to its resting position and the spring wouldn't even touch its bottom perch. This is no problem as the weight of the car will compress the spring when it is put back on the ground.

The fronts were a different story. The spring is on the top of the strut and is sitting on an angle, so again I took my time with the first one (about 2 hours). I removed the bolts holding the ABS sensor line in place and removed the hanger for the brake line to get them out of the way. One of the strut bolts is a cam and there is a mark on the strut to line up with the cam. I used a punch to mark the cam and then I knew I was putting the car back at the same alignment. Once I got the strut out I put it on a press and used a compressor tool to compress the spring (very compressed). Once I removed the nut holding the top of the strut on I removed the spring and the dust cover (holding the bump stop). With the Eibach springs you have to remove 15mm off of the bump stop, which I did with a razor knife. My initial problem with the fronts were that the springs were different than the stock springs (didn't know this when I took the spring off the strut). The stock spring has an additional 180 degree turn on it, so the springs stop in 2 different places. This is not all that big of an issue, but you have to mark the top of the strut so that you can put it back on in the same place (because it is neither centered nor flat). Once I got it all together and in the press I compressed the strut and put the bolt back on. I took the strut over to the car and put it in (don't forget the ECS wires, which I did about every time). Bolted it back together and went to the other side. This side process was exactly the same and took about 20 mins. Then I let the car down off of the lift.

Conclusion: The car looks great. Doesn't appear to sit all that much lower to the ground (but the springs will settle), but the gap between the wheels is way different. When it finally became time to drive it home (from my friends lift) I took it out on the road and kinda babied it for a little bit. The ride was a little stiffer. I have heard the ride likened to that of being in sport mode all of the time, which I think is a pretty accurate description. After I got a little way down the road my ECS lights started blinking, so I'll have to find out which wire/wires I didn't connect (or broke) fully. (that was annoying for the ride home)

The performance is incredible. I drove it to work this morning to get a better feel for the performance side of it. Cornering is fabulous. I thought the car felt like it was on rails before, but it's nothing like this.

All in all I am very happy with this mod. The car looks and handles a lot better than it did stock, and it was well worth a couple hundred bux.

I posted this message because I looked (searched) for some tips for installing them and couldn't find any, so now there will be some in the archives.

Sorry for the long wind, but I type fast and once I get going I can barely stop


Mark
'93 RT TT
Mod List:
Eibach Pro Kit, Apexi AVC-R, new NGK plugs (.34), Spearco WI (not installed yet), Cartech Y-Pipe, ATR downpipe, test pipe/gutted precats, custom 3" catback, Autometer phantom boost guage, white guage faces, red leather shift boot, momo pedals and shift knob, valentine 1, rps turbo clutch, 2nd getrag tranny/2nd getrag transfer case (under warranty thankfully).
 

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Man, that was great! Thanks for the brain candy. I spoke to my friend the mechanic, and he said it'll cost about $500 to lower the darn thing. Good to know that it's doable by the average Joe.

>Once I got it all together and in the press I compressed the strut and put the bolt back on.

When you say in the press, you mean a shock press or a spring compressor? I don't know the difference, if there is one. I just want to know what i'm going to need to do this job.

Thanks and happy turning!

Damon
 

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Question - do you lose your ECS with the instalation of eibachs? Curious because I am considering eibachs and my struts are in need of replacement...if I'm going to lose ECS then might as well get aftermarket struts not factory ECS equiped ones.
--Steve
 

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did you need to get the alignment kit? thanks for all of the info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll try to answer everyones questions at once
.

>When you say in the press, you mean a shock press or a spring compressor? I don't know the difference, if there is one. I just want to know what i'm going to need to do this job.

Damon,

My friend has a hydrolic press (actually like a drill press, but can handle up to 25 tons of pressure, you apply pressure with a bar like a hydrolic floor jack). We used a brace on the bottom of the strut and cut a peice of steel pipe (cut it like a o2 sensor socket, with a slit in the side) and put that on top of the strut. We then put a peice of flat steel on top of that (to push down on) and started compressing. Be sure that before you start compressing you hit the bolt a few times (short, just to break it loose) so it will be doable without killing yourself in the press. Once you get he spring compressed you will be able to remove the bolt with no problem. Keep in mind (if you have a press available to you that will work) that you will have to make sure that you leave your self room to allow the spring to uncompress (it is compressed several inches). If you don't have some way to get the spring compressed, it might be worth it to take the strut off and take the strut assembly with the new spring to a shop and just have them replace the spring (shouldn't be that much).


>Question - do you lose your ECS with the instalation of eibachs? Curious because I am considering eibachs and my struts are in need of replacement...if I'm going to lose ECS then might as well get aftermarket struts not factory ECS equiped ones.

Steve,

As long as none of the electronics get damaged in the operation and the ECS gets reconnected fully (which I don't think I did) your ECS should work with the new springs. The ECS actually affects the stock struts and shocks, so adding springs really has no effect on it.

On a side note, if my struts were going out I would definately consider aftermarket parts. I understand the ECS struts from the dealer to be VERY expensive, and if you are going to lose ECS you might consider a completely different setup like with some adjustable coil over springs and GAB shocks or struts (or something like that). The cool thing with the adjustable springs is that -->you<-- decide what the ride and ride height will be.


>did you need to get the alignment kit? thanks for all of the info!

Diablo,

Nope. If you mark the cam bolt in the strut you can put the strut back in the exact same place that it was in when you took it out. It will result in the same alignment that you have now. The only difference (and it didn't really apply to me cause I don't adjust it) is that you may have problems adjusting camber because the body is so much closer to the wheel.

I hope this helps any DIYers out there with this mod in mind. The hardest part (to me) was just figuring out the best way to do it without getting killed. Once I figured out a process it was literally a breeze (takes me longer to change the oil).

Mark
'93 RT TT


[This message has been edited by Mark (edited January 12, 2000).]
 
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