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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
I'm looking to buy replacement capacitors for my ECU, any leads on where to get them?
Yes I know there are plenty of threads on the subject with people selling them but they are from more than 10yrs ago...
Digikey.ca has only 2 of the 3 required so that doesn't help much..
Any leads are appreciated!
Thanks,
Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, at least in this case, the capacitive rating is important (and I believe the values you posted are correct), and as long as you get a capacitor with at least the voltage rating as the original (without being rediculous), you should be fine.

If I knew where my spares were, I would check out what I have, but they are buried in a box that I brought home from work 3 yrs ago, in the basement, LOL

Bob.
 

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lol gotcha. Covid should give you time to sort through some stuff! (and for all of us to work on our cars!)
Thanks for the help:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hm maybe it's a different warehouse in Canada, because it switched to.ca and they were on back order for one of them. Oh well I've got them ordered now.
Thanks
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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Just to confirm though, these should be the correct capacitors right?;
Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 22uF 50V
Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 47uF 50V
Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 100uF 25V
(this one is 25v vs the 16V I think that is stock, but as far as I'm aware that should be fine?)
Most likely those are correct, but hard to say for sure since you didn’t even include year and trim of your car or ECU #. But yes higher voltage is OK as long as the micro-farad value is the same. Set of four can be ordered from 3SX.

 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Sorry, '93 VR4. I just pulled the ECU today to have a look. The capacitors have been replaced but looks like there was previous damage so who knows:S... I may have to bite the bullet and replace the ECU (was definitely considering a Chrome ECU), but I was holding off on that in case the ECU wasn't even my problem.
ANy thoughts based of of what you see?
IMG_20200407_134056.jpg IMG_20200407_134040.jpg IMG_20200407_134119.jpg IMG_20200407_134205.jpg IMG_20200407_134222.jpg IMG_20200407_134252.jpg <---this one looks like there is some corrosion around the chip as well
 

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UGH.
Sorry, but was this car a flood car?
The GUNK around that one IC is horrible!
The work done on the big cap near the injector drivers looks like it was done by a 5 yr old.

It "may" be fixable, but if I were you I might be looking for a replacement....

Good Luck,

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UGH.
Sorry, but was this car a flood car?
The GUNK around that one IC is horrible!
The work done on the big cap near the injector drivers looks like it was done by a 5 yr old.

It "may" be fixable, but if I were you I might be looking for a replacement....

Good Luck,

Bob.
not a flood car.. or damn well better not have been anyway! (car doesn't seem to have signs of bad corrosion etc)... but yea I wasn't happy when I saw this ECU either :(
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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... but yea I wasn't happy when I saw this ECU either :(
Those capacitors have certainly been replaced and I’m in agreement With (Bob) OhioSpyderman on what looks like corrosion around chips and maybe other areas. Some of my soldering doesn’t look that good either but seems to work OK. So visual appearance doesn’t mean ECU wouldn’t work but I’d always be worried about it. Might have been cause by leaking heater coil at some time.

What kind of problems are you having?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
white93gt
I figured it would make sense to just start another thread specific to the overall hesitation issues I'm having.. so here's the link:
 

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UGH.
Sorry, but was this car a flood car?
The GUNK around that one IC is horrible!
The work done on the big cap near the injector drivers looks like it was done by a 5 yr old.

It "may" be fixable, but if I were you I might be looking for a replacement....

Good Luck,

Bob.
It looks like someone poured a shit ton of flux on there to remove the old caps/solder, didn't clean it up and then soldered the new caps in from the top even though they are through hole. Lol
 

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As far as where to get caps, the 3sx price is ok , but I replaced the caps of my tach with purchase from eBay, as long as you know the uf <$3.00.
 

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Caps from Mouser or Digikey will cost around $0.30 each but then you'll have to pay around $5 shipping.

Capacitance is somewhat important, as tolerance on the original caps was probably +/- 10%. Voltage rating is critical, don't get new caps rated at lower voltages.

Also critical is polarity when installing polarized electrolytic caps.
 

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Yes capacitance must be same, voltage can only be higher, & polarity will let you know in a hurry if you are wrong. My way don't remove cap until you have the new one in your hand to compare. I had my tachs desoldered but still in holes of the board, then it got bumped & one fell out, oops. I was able to follow the trace on the back to verify ground which is (-).
 
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