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· 160WHP NA. You're Jealous
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The "Puck" clutches (usually stage 3 and up) are like an on/off switch. I prefer the gradual grab for daily driving. My car is not a race car either, but I like to have fun with it. If you do the clutch yourself, an XTD is like 150 bucks, so its not prohibitively expensive. If you have someone else do the work, then thats a lot of money to put in a questionable clutch.
 

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I recently got an unsprung 6 puck clutch from xtd. It barely made it 1000 miles before I began having problems. The transmission began making a noise very similar to rod knock. I pulled the trans and found that there was slight play between the splines on the clutch hub and the input shaft of the transmission. Needless to say, I was very upset and sent the clutch back. I hope to have better luck with the next disc.
 

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The "Puck" clutches (usually stage 3 and up) are like an on/off switch. I prefer the gradual grab for daily driving. My car is not a race car either, but I like to have fun with it. If you do the clutch yourself, an XTD is like 150 bucks, so its not prohibitively expensive. If you have someone else do the work, then thats a lot of money to put in a questionable clutch.
On/off switch huh? So does that mean that it's better to engage it at a real low RPM so that it hooks up a little more smoothly....then floor it afterward? There's no slipping it at all? I imagine a 2000+ rpm launch would then be pretty hard on everything else then? (but feel neck-snapping badass??)

Sorry to the last poster, shaft play is no good. I hope I don't have any problems like that after my stage 3 gets installed.:mitsu:
 

· 160WHP NA. You're Jealous
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
That sucks about your experience, GtoTT. Thanks for giving some more feedback. Let us know how the new clutch works.

SuperFast3000GT, I have not owned a vehicle with a 6 puck clutch. Before we let a car go at my shop, we test drive them to make sure everythings good. I have driven several with 6 pucks, and it does feel like an on/off switch, but all the ones Ive driven were in strictly performance cars, so there might have been many factors there making it uncomfortable for DD, rather than just the clutch itself.

Someone that has more continuous experience with one might be able to give more detailed feedback. But yes, it did feel badass once I learned how to launch correctly with each car (cause each one is a little different). On the other hand, it was raining during one of the test drives, and it was hard to keep the tires from spinning even at low RPM, just taking off from a stop light.
 

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So i have know idea how old this post is but im seriously debating on buying an ebay clutch i have 400$ for a clutch and flywheel and exedy W/ a fidanza fly wheel are 399 Advice or input any one?

(96 3kgt cold air,light weight crank pulley,Headers to single shot exhaust )
 

· 160WHP NA. You're Jealous
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Just depends on what you want. You get what you pay for, but I've put about 30k on mine, with minimal slip issues (Only real hard shift from first to second). Is it your DD that you want a bit more pep out of?
 

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Daily Driving and the occasional honda reving next to me moment, my cars up on jack stands and its depressing that it spend more time in my garage then the road this past winter so i would need something to last until i can save up for something good and 30k miles isnt bad when did it start sliping alittle and how do you drive
 

· 160WHP NA. You're Jealous
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I drive it kinda hard. Dont usually shift before 3k, if Im beating on it, then shift around 5500. Just started slipping recently after I went to the road course, but even then, its not too bad. I've heard other bad stories of these things breaking down after 5000 miles and others that have over 60k with no problems. I'd put another one in mine because of the cost saving and a little more power to ground feeling. In the end its up to you though.
 

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sooo i decided to go with an oem exedy clutch and a fidanza light weight fly wheel, i have my tranny dropped but a slight problem someone might be able to help me with, Now my old throw out bearing had a metal sleeve in it but the rim around that sleeve cracked, and my new TOB Didnt come with this metal sleeve, does any one know what this shit is? the name 4 it? where to find it? or a TOB that comes with one that will Fit or does any TOB Fit(Shit got me scratchin my head) Ny input or help would be appreciated
 

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ill take F1 over XTD anytime . i had f1 and i loved it and then i went wih XTD stage4 and it was slipping under hard shifting from first day
The first day??? You are supposed to break it in. It has to have several 100 engagements and several good heat cycles (heat up, cool down, heat up, cool down) before you beat on it. I broke my XTD stage 3 in gently and around 400 miles I started doing some light pulls. By 550-600 miles I opened it up and ever since (2000 miles or so) it hasn't slipped on me one time. I can floor it in 5th gear at 20 mph and it still doesn't slip. Now, not to say I'll get more than 10-15K miles out of it.... but it does hold strong. :mitsu:
 

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The first day??? You are supposed to break it in. It has to have several 100 engagements and several good heat cycles (heat up, cool down, heat up, cool down) before you beat on it. I broke my XTD stage 3 in gently and around 400 miles I started doing some light pulls. By 550-600 miles I opened it up and ever since (2000 miles or so) it hasn't slipped on me one time. I can floor it in 5th gear at 20 mph and it still doesn't slip. Now, not to say I'll get more than 10-15K miles out of it.... but it does hold strong. :mitsu:

i meant that f1 felt strong from first day but XTD did not . first launch was after 623 miles of break in and it did not hold up and was slipping like a bitch. i am going to make hybrid :D XTD stage4 clutch disk and F1 racing stage 3 pressure plate and it should hold 550 tq
 

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Bringing back an old thread here but installed a stage 3 XTD sprung 6 puck clutch and pressure plate into my supra with a R154 and it made it one day before the pressure plate exploded and blew a nice hole in my bell housing...See pics.


 

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My how things have changed. A month or so ago I bought a "XTD STAGE 2 STREET CLUTCH KIT 1990-1996 3000GT & STEALTH BASE SL" on EBay for $85. It had a 6 puck disc with what looked like ceramic abrasive on them; very different from the stock disc. The pressure plate looked stock, but once it was installed the clutch pedal felt slightly lighter. It all fit perfectly in my '93 SL. I'm about 1 month into the break-in period with no issues at all to report. I did buy a new flywheel from AutoZone, since local shops wanted the same to machine my old one as the new one cost. Although this is not an extremely aggressive clutch, it does feel much more like an on/off switch than the stock one. Trying to baby it by starting from a standstill at low revs tests my skills and often makes me look like a new driver. I'm 53 and have been doing this a while, so that is not the case, but when it grabs like a bear-trap and I don't hit the gas in time, I stall it out like a teenager. I hope this last much longer than 30k miles, but also hate that so many people badmouth these without ever having had one.
 

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Well, they say you get what you pay for...and sadly my XTD clutch is now slipping in 3rd to 5th gear when I've held a constant speed and try to accelerate. It's been installed for just over a year!?!?! Some parts are made just well enough to make it through the warranty period (or one race) and this appears to be one of them. I haven't torn it down yet, but I used the required thread-locker and torqued the pressure plate bolts, so I doubt that any of them have come loose. I expect to replace it soon with an Autozone clutch. Not because they have a great reputation, but because they will give me another one free when it wears out. I love that lifetime warranty for my daily driver.
 

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If anyone knows who the Original Equipment Manufacturer was for 3000gt clutch plates, please let me know.

Everyone claims to meet or exceed OEM specifications, but that is often baloney. The original one lasted over 100k miles, so I'd prefer to get another one of those, just not at stealership prices.

Also please don't reply with "Mitsubishi", O.K.? ; )
 
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