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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay.. everyone says that the more, colder air you can supply to the engine, the more HP you will get..

What would happen if:

You created some sort of ram intake that used tubing that connects to scoops built either into air inlets on the front fascia, or scoops that bolted under the front there, and the outside temp was say..around freezing... plus you have to include the wind chill since the car is moving...

Would air that cold not *hurt* the engine??

Maybe I'm thinking about this all wrong...

-LDG
93 Stealth ES
 

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Cold air will not hurt your engine at all. The reason colder air is better is because the air is more dense, having more oxygen molecules per volume of air. THe more oxygen you have mixing with the gas, the stronger the explosion will be when the mixture is ignited. That's why cars are less powerful in high altitudes, since the air is less dense and doesn't have as much O2. I'm pretty sure this is the same principle with NOS. I think the way NOS works is that the nitrogen and oxygen are seperated when ignited, and the result is more O2 for the gas mixture, resulting in gobs or power. The reason pure O2 is not added to your engine is that it is highly flammable and dangerous to store (much more dangerous than NOS, even though that too is dangerous) and also a fuel cutoff with NOS might break some shit in your engine, but fuel cutoff on O2 will probably blow your whole car up. The nitrogen gets in the way of the oxygen so it doesn't ignite too explosively, which makes it a LITTLE safer. It's the same thing as the 79% nitrogen in the air right now not letting all the oxygen in the world ignite when you light a match.

Jason
92 Stealth R/T TT
 

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oh, but the only thing wrong with adding ram air to the inlets is that it might suck up too much moisture. I don't think it's bad for your engine, since it will evaporate in the piston when the fuel air mixture ignites, but it'll probably get in the way of power. Even if it is raining, there probably won't be enough suction to get too much water up there, but snow flakes might get up in there enough to make a difference. I had a RAM air system hooked up to my R/T, and I had a blow dryer fan attached to the end inside the inlet area of the front facia. The other end of the tubing was attached to the end of my cone filter, which had an opening at the top along with the sides. I had the fan hooked up to a switch I had inside my car so I could turn it off when it was wet outside. The idea wasn't to "ram" the air in my filter, but instead to pump cooler air to the filter. There was definitely a difference because when I used to drive my car around, the filter would be hot to the touch when I parked, but when I had the ram air, it would always be cool. I didn't notice any difference in power, but I did get about 80 more miles per tank, which made me happy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So with a ram air setup..

Would you connect the tubing from the intake directly to the intake on the engine, bypassing any type of air filter completely..
or would you have it run through some kind of air filter first...

-LDG
93 Stealth ES
 

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you would definitely want an air filter some where before the throttle body, or your engine will suck up all kinds of nasty stuff and get bad on you. With the original air box on your car, there isn't room to put any type of ram air. The easiest way is to somehow get tubing going from the pass. side air inlet to the filter area. This is totally custom, and you basically do it anyway you want. I don't think there is any room if you have Automatic tranny. Probably the easiest way is to get an adapter for your Mass Air Sensor, which cost me about $45. All it is, is a piece of metal that will bolt on to your mass air sensor in the place of your airbox, and it has a about an inch wide ring on it so you can clamp a hose or cone filter to it. With the cone filter in this area, it will suck in the hot engine air, but will give better performance than the stock air filter. You can get the eclipse filter adapter at most racing shops, but you'll probably have to have a 3000gt/Stealth adapter ordered. I just got the eclipse adapter, but I could only get 3 of the 4 bolts to line up, but that's all you need to hold it on. The cone I got was just a generic cone, but it is better performing than the K&N. The K&N FIPK is just the adapter I was talking about (except it's plastic intstead of metal), a cone filter (still pretty restrictive to be more conservative with cleaning the air) and cleaning kit. I've seen everyone getting this for about $150, but I got my set up with out the cleaning kit for $75. You only need to clean the filter every 15K miles, so you can get it when you need it. the K&N filter has a cap on top of it, but the filter I had, had a hole in the top for more surface area to let air in. It was about 2 1/2 inches wide, and a 2" rubber elbow from home depot plugged right into it. Then I got a 3"-2" plastic reducer and connected it to the elbow, and had a 3"x 8 ft aluminum dryer vent connected to the other side, and then had that going down into the area behind the air inlet on the front facia. I had the 3" vent connected to a 4"-3" plastic reducer, and that part connected to a metal 5"-4" reducer. I had my fan mounted in that last reducer, and you could see the fan from the inlet if you looked close. I had to disconnect two of the plastic snaps from the wheel well splash guards and pry them out to squeeze the end of my tubing in there, and I didn't even mount the end of it anywhere. I just let it lay in there, and it didn't move. I'd say I spent about $15 at home depot getting all this stuff, except for the fan, which I already had from a blow dryer. The blow dryer was probably less than $10, but I saw a 6" heating ventilation booster that interested me for $15 at home depot. The only thing is that it's not water proof, and making it water resistant would have taken a little more work. It's also set up to recieve AC power, but my stripping some of it to a bare motor would probably let it handle DC. the fan I had was made for AC, but I disconnected everything from it so that it was only a motor and a fan blade, and DC worked just fine. If you have any questions or want to see the pics, just email me at [email protected]


Jason
 

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Nitrous Vs. O2?

Basically, the way NO2 works is simple. First, like our turbos, there's an increase in pressure in the cylenders. The higher the cylender pressure, the greater the power. Second, there is an increase in fuel that's sent in. When ever you hook up a NO2 jet, you hook up a parallel gas jet with it. The combination of the two is greater than each one separate since the freezing NO2 (when ever you drop pressure quickly, temp drops) chills the incoming air, atomizes and freezes the fuel to a solid (even more dense than liquid gas) and when all of these get shoved into the cylenders, they go boom quickly and ferociously.

Oxygen is NOT explosive. There is no worry about compressed O2 causing city wide explosions. O2 makes things burn, but is not flamable itself. If you hold a match to a stream of O2, the match burns hotter and brighter, but the flame will never move towards the stream of O2. The NO2 (I've heard) might burn a little, but that's not why NO2 is used. It's cheap and as i mentioned, causes the fuel to become solid! compressed o2 is quite a bit more pricy and that's why it's not used. Plus, there's plenty of O2 in the atmosphere, so just get more air in and you're golden. Just thought you should know.
 
G

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SilverBullet,
You also have to remember that Wind Chill is only a human term, due to the feeling that we get when moving in a stream of air, that it is colder than it really is because of surface moisture evaporation off of our skin. The car only knows what the actual temperature is in relation to performance, the wind chill doesn't affect cars.
 
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