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Big Kid
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That looks like its over engineered. But where there is a will there is a way.

I have a duel walbrow setup simular but much simpler than that one and Im sure it flows more fuel.
 

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uh yep.

but i had to design it. cost around 210.00 for the pumps.
 

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Aghhhh
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Pokey's setup looks a lot more compact and well-built. We don't need no stinkin aftermarket support! We build our own mods dammit! :D
 

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that guy is mildly retarded. why? because he went through all that trouble and the fuel still can only flow thru that little stock tube. kinda like trying to suck a mcdonalds shake thru a coffee stirrer straw...what happens? your face gets all red, and gets hot from the heat...hmmmm. and you dont get any more shake, no matter how hard you suck, or push in this case.

the other thing is flow. on mine its straight up and out, where it routes the 2 -6's in a Y to a -8. On his, it uses a "T"', THEN tries to go out the stock -4? tube.

heres another pic.

btw, shut up mitchell, my car isnt ricey. cause of you and hoser i had to redo the interior trim in light grey. thanks, you both were right.
 

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Impressive setups :) Have you guys seens a pressure drop that you've mounted twins or feeding the poor pump with 18V ??
 

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I still need a clutch Roger. Thats what im waiting on.

Brainfood. If the pump is designed for 14.4, wouldnt boosting it to 18V make it run hotter, and thus shorten its lifespan?

Supposing the above question is moot....The other thing is the cost factor of the upgrade pump and the boost a volt versus 2 twins.

Even if you go that route, you still need a bigger fuel line, right?

I paid

210.00 for the twins
45.00 on fittings to get it to 2 -6's and ready for routing to the NOS Y fitting.

Plus the mod has already been done. I sweated for weeks on the design. Oh yea, the other thing is that the supra guy has metal touching metal inside his tank. And not just that, he has vibrating metal touching stationary metal (the clamps holding it in). That worries me a little.

What i do like about the supra setup is he ran the 2 12 gauge wires out the top, like i did.

the other issue on his is i dont see any bracket holding the twins in on the bottom. that was the hard part. heres a pic.
 

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lol omnip. No, im just fanatical about designs, and how they relate to overall purpose. I cant leave anything to chance. It has to be perfect. Kinda like removing every bolt and metal part in the engine bay, and polishing them. I cant wait to take pics and post them here.

Well its all great except for a 700HP car that no one seems to have a clutch that will work in it. :rolleyes:
 

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I have a question while we are on the fuel subject. At what point do we need to consider a new Fuel Pressure regulator. I just ordered a supra pump and planned on getting it to 14v . I just would like to know what people think is a level that a new adjustable regulator is needed ? Anyone got any info on this subject ?
 

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I am doing pretty much the same thing as Pokey except I am integrating a -6 returne line into the assembly. Stock fuel, returne lines, and regulator are defiantly not safe for 700HP!
 

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Hey Brian. How goes it? Stock fuel ststem to 700Hp? Brainfood ,Who told you that? The only thing stock on my fuel setup is the fuel rails, except they are individually fed.

Anyways, Brian is right bout the return line too. Except i used the stock feed line as the return line. It was -6 and i was trying to save money.
 

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Retired
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How would I go about running 14 volts to my Supra pump? Thanks
 

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Senior Member
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hot wire it or bypass the fuel relay... 13.5 volts if you want more kenne bell boost a pump...
pokey you are right maybe not 700 but 600hp no one has proven the stock fuel lines to be a bottle neck... though no one has proven a lot of things. :D
 

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VR4 Member
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I think pokey did do that with the return line I remember drilling a hole in the gas tank with him and we were worried that we were going to blow up because of gas fumes and sparks
 

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lol Hobbit. I remember your sissy girl stood way down the driveway, and says, "well someone hasta be able to call 911".

Heres a pic of my fuel electrical bypass. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the battery to a relay. The power wire that usually powers the pump triggers the relay, then a new 10 gauge wire goes to the 2 12 gauge pump wires. If ya notice in my prev pics, there is also a 10 gauge ground wire att to the top of the bulkhead.

The relay looks like this.

I 10 gauge 12 volt input
ground - - 12 volt wire (black/blue stock 12v)
I new 10 gauge + wire to 2 new pumps

As you can see, the stock 12 v wire simply triggers the relay providing a refreshing frosty 12 volt supply beverage of current to my bouncing baby twins. :D

the other bypass im not sure of, and it still uses the crappy 18 gauge factory wiring. Mine doesnt.
 

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