dual fuel pumps

uh yep.

but i had to design it. cost around 210.00 for the pumps.

that guy is mildly retarded. why? because he went through all that trouble and the fuel still can only flow thru that little stock tube. kinda like trying to suck a mcdonalds shake thru a coffee stirrer straw...what happens? your face gets all red, and gets hot from the heat...hmmmm. and you dont get any more shake, no matter how hard you suck, or push in this case.

the other thing is flow. on mine its straight up and out, where it routes the 2 -6's in a Y to a -8. On his, it uses a "T"', THEN tries to go out the stock -4? tube.

heres another pic.

btw, shut up mitchell, my car isnt ricey. cause of you and hoser i had to redo the interior trim in light grey. thanks, you both were right.

I still need a clutch Roger. Thats what im waiting on.

Brainfood. If the pump is designed for 14.4, wouldnt boosting it to 18V make it run hotter, and thus shorten its lifespan?

Supposing the above question is moot....The other thing is the cost factor of the upgrade pump and the boost a volt versus 2 twins.

Even if you go that route, you still need a bigger fuel line, right?

I paid

210.00 for the twins
45.00 on fittings to get it to 2 -6's and ready for routing to the NOS Y fitting.

Plus the mod has already been done. I sweated for weeks on the design. Oh yea, the other thing is that the supra guy has metal touching metal inside his tank. And not just that, he has vibrating metal touching stationary metal (the clamps holding it in). That worries me a little.

What i do like about the supra setup is he ran the 2 12 gauge wires out the top, like i did.

the other issue on his is i dont see any bracket holding the twins in on the bottom. that was the hard part. heres a pic.

.

lol Hobbit. I remember your sissy girl stood way down the driveway, and says, "well someone hasta be able to call 911".

Heres a pic of my fuel electrical bypass. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the battery to a relay. The power wire that usually powers the pump triggers the relay, then a new 10 gauge wire goes to the 2 12 gauge pump wires. If ya notice in my prev pics, there is also a 10 gauge ground wire att to the top of the bulkhead.

The relay looks like this.

I 10 gauge 12 volt input
ground - - 12 volt wire (black/blue stock 12v)
I new 10 gauge + wire to 2 new pumps

As you can see, the stock 12 v wire simply triggers the relay providing a refreshing frosty 12 volt supply beverage of current to my bouncing baby twins.

the other bypass im not sure of, and it still uses the crappy 18 gauge factory wiring. Mine doesnt.