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Wrenchmonkey #839
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EDIT: I made a webpage to summarize this thread:
http://www.wrenchmonkey.com/Webpages/DRB.html

Download SRS diagnostic manual! http://www.wrenchmonkey.com/Images/SRS Manual/SRS.pdf

I got irritated trying to deal with dealer to get my SRS light reset $100 a pop to have dealer check codes. after 2 failed tries I finally got pissed and bought a DRBII off Ebay to reset it. There is not a lot of information the DRB II on the internet. I learned some hard lessions and I thought I would share them with everyone. Eventually I will post a webpage. I now own 2 DRBIIs but I don't have all the adpaters to use one of them. :rolleyes:

IF you want to diagnose the Airbag (SRS) system on your car you will need a DRBII (Chrysler version) or a MUTTII (Mitsubishi version) The DRBII is easier to find so that is all I have experience with.

A DRBII is a special dealer only diagnostic tool that was not sold to the general public. Now that newer versions are available you can often find them on EBay. If you buy from EBay you need to make sure you get EVERY part you need.

1. DRBII Main control Box. This is a 4.5x 8” box with digital display.
2. DRB Cartridge for your car. The best cartridge is a “Super Cartridge” A Super Cartridge covers multiple years and cars. A very desirable cartridge in the blue 91-93 Super Cartridge. This will work for All 91-93 Chrysler, Dodge Stealth 3000GT and DSMs. Most DRBIIs are sold with no cartridges at all, or a cartage that has very limited usage so be carefull.
3. MMC Adapter. This is a 3x6” box with wiring harnesses that allow a DRBII to connect to a DSM, 3000GT or Stealth. Many DRBII are Not sold with this adapter but I have found the adapter sold separately
4. Optional Co-Pilot. This is a data recorder that is installed in car. When intermittent problem occurs you hit a button to record. A DRBII is needed to download the stored data.
5. Optional is 94 Y-cable. This harness is needed to connect to 94 & 95 DSM, 3000GTs and Stealths. Please Note: If you do not have a 94 compatible cartridge this is useless.
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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4,979 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
General: How to Use the DRB tool

To reach help menu at Anytime press and hold the [F3]
To move forward or backward one item at a time within a menu, press the up or down arrow keys
To select and item, press the item number or move the arrows to the desired item and press enter.
To return to a previous display, press ATM
To monitor one item of a multiple-item display, move the arrows to the desired item and press ENTER.
To freeze a variable display time, press READ/HOLD. To unfreeze the item, press READ/HOLD again.
To restart the DRBII, hold MODE and press ATM at the same time


AIRBAG (SRS) DIAGNOSIS

Connect the DRBII to the vehicle as follows.
1. Connect the 8-way DIN connector of the DBRII to the 8-way DIN connector of the MMC Adapter
2. Plug the 12-way diagnostic connector of the MMC Adapter into the diagnostic connector of the vehicle. The vehicle’s diagnostic connector is located on the LH side of the dash next to the fuse box.
3. Attach the red alligator clip the battery positive terminal. Note: attach the red alligator clip last, after the other two connectors are connected.
Turn the Vehicles ignition switch to the “RUN” position. Note: Do not touch the keypad during the DRBII power-up sequence or an error will result.

The DRBII will display the vervsion and rev level of the software for a short time.

After A few seconds the main menus will come up Note the menu is larger than the display screen so you will have to use the down arrows to see all of the options.
---- DRB II ----
1) VEHICLES TESTED
2) HOW TO USE
3) CONFIGURE
4) SELECT SYSTEM

Select “4) SELECT SYSTEM”

---- DRB II ----
1) ENGINE
2) TRANSMISSION
3) SUSPENSION
4) ABS
5) AIR BAG

Select “5) AIR BAG” The sysyem will display the ECU number and after a few seconds go to the air bag menu

---- AIR BAG MENU ----
1) SYSTEM TESTS
2) READ CODES
3) STATE DISPLAY
4) ACTUATOR TESTS
5) ADJUSTMENTS

Select “2) Read Codes”
It will either display “No codes detected” or list the error codes 1 at a time. You must use the down arrow to see every code before you can erase any codes.

Press the “ATM” button. The display will change to read as follows

---- AIR BAG MENU ----
1) ERASE CODES
2) DON’T ERASE CODES

Select “1) ERASE CODES” to erase the codes. If there is a problem the code can not be erased until it is fixed. Below is a list of air bag codes.

AIRBAG CODES:

(11) G-sensor trouble 1 (short) Sometimes bad sensor even when resistance is correct
(12) G-Sensor Trouble 2 (1 Open)
(13) G-Sensor Trouble 3 (2 Open)
(21) Squib Trouble 1 (Short)
(22) Squib Trouble 2 (Open)
(31) Condensor Voltage High
(32) Condensor Voltage Low
(33) Cranking Trouble
(34) Connector Unlocked, This is grounding bar on back of SRS ECU., flip it down and it should be fixed
(41) Ignition Voltage Low 1, Battery Probably went dead slowly at one time
(42) Ignition Voltage Low 2, Battery Probably went dead slowly at one time
(43) SRS lamp Trouble 1
(44) SRS lamp Trouble 2
(45) Diagnostic Module
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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4,979 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I paid $370 for a DRBII that did not have the supercard, so I couldn't use it.
I paid $300 for 2nd DRBII that did not have the Mitsubishi adapters
The Mitsubishi adapters go for about $60 if you are luccky and a Supercard can cost as much as $100.

Average it all out and you can expect to pay over $400 for a used DRBII
The prices vary ALOT on ebay I have seen them go for $600.
 

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Moderator
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4,227 Posts
This sounds like a good thing for a group of people to pile their money together to get. SRS lights are common enough that it would sure save some money.
 

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Yesterday I was told if you connect a volt meter to the number 1 pin ( use the black, neg wire) and to the number 12 pin (use the red + wire) and with the ignition in the on position, you can get the code by counting the spikes of the meter ..... then use the code book ..... I have not tried this and was only told about it yesterday .... and only just caught you thread...
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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4,979 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The only way to reset a SRS light is with a DRBII DRBIII, MUTTII, MUTTIII or maybe one of the new diagnostic tools that cost about $4000.

Anybody that tells you otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about.

The DRBII is REALLY easy to use;)

 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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4,979 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
More Pictures

Some Cartriges including my latest find a 94 Supercartridge:)


Jeep Eagle Adapter, Not needed for 3S


SCI Cable, not needed for 3S, Used to connect to Chrysler engines


CCD Cable, not needed for 3S, Used to connect to SOME years Chrysler bodies
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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4,979 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Some other DRB stuff that I don't really know what it is

A Chrysler Diagnostic tool, NOT a DRB II, It MIGHT be a DRBI, this is NOT what you want.


TSB related cartridges, Does Anyone know what they do?


Mystery Cable, I have no clue, it is NOT a 94 adapter


Mystery Adapter, I have no clue, it is NOT a 94 adapter
I have no clue, it is NOT a 94 adapter[/img]
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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4,979 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
More Detailed Information On Drbii Units, And Some Questions

MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON DRBII UNITS, AND SOME QUESTIONS

When I went to sell my 3000GT I had to finally fix the SRS light. My hatred of dealers put me on a quest to get a DRBII or MUTT II so I would never have a reason to go to a dealer again. I got screwed over multiple times on EBAY by people selling DRB units that appeared to be complete but were missing cartridges or adapters. I also bought untested DRB units just to get the cartridges. As I expected untested meant they were broken. It took almost 5 separate EBAY auctions at a total cost of $1400 to get 2 functioning DRB II units. It was still cheaper than what the dealer wanted to fix a G-force sensor error code, so it was still a good deal. I felt that I should share my experiences so other 3S owners will not have to struggle as much as I did. I also started a thread on 3SI with pictures:
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=220063

IF you want to diagnose the Airbag (SRS) system on your car you will need a DRBII or a MUTT II. The Mitsubishi version is a MUTT II but I have never used a one and the DRB II unit worked on 3000GT’s too. A DRBII is a special dealer only diagnostic tool that was not sold to the general public. Now that newer versions are available you can often find them on EBay. If you buy from EBay you need to make sure you get every part you need. DRB III are close to $3000 on EBAY, If your car is newer than a 95 you are stuck paying big bucks or going to a dealer.
If you are buying a DRB II unit on Ebay make the seller verify that it works and make sure you get the necessary parts listed below. See this link for pictures. http://www.monninengineering.com/images/DRB/

1. DRBII Main control Box. This is a 4.5x 8” box with digital display and a fairly large keypad.
2. DRB Cartridge for your car. The best cartridge is a “Super Cartridge” A Super Cartridge covers multiple years and cars. A very desirable cartridge in the blue label 91-93 Super Cartridge. This will work for All 91-93 Chrysler, Dodge Stealth 3000GT and DSMs. Most DRBIIs are sold with no cartridges at all, or a cartage that has very limited usage so be carefull. The best cartridge I know of is the Yellow label 1983-1994 Super Cartridge
3. MMC Adapter (P/N MM1000). This is a 3x6” box with wiring harnesses that allow a DRBII to connect to a DSM, 3000GT or Stealth. Many DRBII are Not sold with this adapter but I have found the adapter sold separately.
4. 94 Y-cable. This harness is only needed to connect to 94 & 95 DSM, 3000GTs and Stealths. Please Note: If you do not have a 94 compatible cartridge this is useless.

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES BELOW
5. Jeep/Eagle Adapter (P/N JE1000), This is a 3x6” box with wiring harnesses that allow a DRBII to connect to a Jeep or Eagle. Many DRBII are Not sold with this adapter but I have found the adapter sold separately.
6. Co-Pilot. This is a data recorder that is installed in car. When intermittent problem occurs you hit a button to record. A DRBII is needed to download the stored data.
7. SRS diagnostic Manual. The DRB is Really easy to use but this helps to figure out airbag codes. The Hooters girls had no problem using the DRBII unit at NG04 http://www.monninengineering.com/images/NG04/DRBII.jpg
8. SCI Cable (P/N CC2000) This is the Engine Diagnostic cable for Chrysler cars. It is not needed on Stealth or 3000GT
9. CCD Cable (P/N CC1020) This is the Body Cable for some year Chrysler cars. It is not needed on Stealth or 3000GT


Final Tally of all the DRB II parts I have. I have a bunch of stuff I have no idea to use. I am trying to figure them out because it will make them much easier to sell on EBAY to recover some of my investment. I will set up a Webpage first on how to use the DRB unit before I sell anything.

1 new style DRB II unit great shape. The newer model has yellow striping and a Mopar label. The keypad cover has a different connector to the circuit board. I found this out trying to make one good unit out of 2 broken ones.

1 new style DRB II unit with bad keypad. When I turn it on it gives me a keypad error message. I took it apart and got some coffee out of it but it is still bad.

1 old style DRB II unit that looks rough but works great. I used this one on 10 or 11 cars at the National gathering and I was able to reset the SRS light on all but one car.

1 old style DRB unit with a busted up housing and a bad keypad. The unit turns on and appears to work but at least 2 of the critical keys do not work.

2 Mitsubishi adapters required to use unit on any Mitsubishi or Stealth. Despite rumors the DRB II works on 3000GT’s as well as Stealths.

1 Jeep Eagle adapter required to connect to Jeeps

3or 4 Standard Dodge/ Chrysler adapters. Mosts DRB units are sold with just this adapter

1 DRB I??? The title says Diagnostic Readout Miller Tool C-4805. It is smaller than a DRBII. It has standard Chrysler connector on it. I have no idea what years it is good for.

17 CARTRIGES! (4-5) which are actually usable, From Best to worthless
- Yellow Label Super Cartridge 1983-1994 – (V8.0) This was EXTREMELY difficult to find and will work with the 94 OBDHYBRID ECU. I think it MIGHT work on a 95 too, but I need to verify.
- Blue Label Super Cartridge 1983-1993 – (V7.0) I actually have 2 of these and they are very desirable because they work on all Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge, MMC, Diamond star and Jeep/Eagle.
- Blue Label 1991-93 V 6.0-LH. This is labeled a little different but it is basically a super cartride for 91-93 model years
- Silver Label 1991 Chry/ Plym / Dodge/ MMC/ Diamond Star/ Jeep/ Eagle. V4.0. This card is supposedly only for 1991 but I tried it in my 92 Stealth and it worked great. I used it to clear SRS codes. Because this card work I am hoping the 83-94 Super Cartridge will work on the 95 model year too.
__________________________________
I have no idea how to use 4 of the Cartridges I have.

- Mopar Diagnostic System Level 2.05 1992, This is bigger than the other cartridges and When I try to use it asks me to enter a code. I have no idea how to use it
- Flash Programming Cartridge T.S.B. 09-13-93 / 18-12-93 I have no idea how to use it. This card has a phone number on it. It says “Service part #A 115 Adam Electronics (313) 583-2000”. I found Adam electronics on the Internet and they make Tattoo Equipment. I thought it was wrong but the phone number matches! Except for the area code. http://www.eagle1tattoo.com/contact.html
- Flash Programming Cartridge T.S.B. 18-08-94 I have no idea how to use it
- Flash Programming Cartridge T.S.B. 18-17-93 I have no idea how to use it
_______________________________________
The rest of the cartridges are so limited that I occasionally see them sell on E-bay for less than $20.
- Red Label 1989-90 Mitsubishi, 1990 Diamond Star, 1987-90 Jeep/Eagle
- Red Label 1983-1988 Engine/ 1988 Body
- Red Label 1989 1.5L/1.6L Mitsiubish
- Red Label 1989 1.5L/1.6L/1.8L/2.0L/3.0L Mitsubishi I have 2 of these
- Black Label 1989 Powertrain Body Chassis, I have 2 of these.
- Black Label 1990 Powertrain Body Chassis
 

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Wanted: Traction Problems
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makes me glad Ive never had problems with SRS, on the other hand I do have problems with 'sport' suspention light blinking. I know how to read the analog codes but that doesent tell you what is broke just where it is. Will any off these devises be able to help with my problem?
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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4,979 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
badass3000 said:
makes me glad Ive never had problems with SRS, on the other hand I do have problems with 'sport' suspention light blinking. I know how to read the analog codes but that doesent tell you what is broke just where it is. Will any off these devises be able to help with my problem?
A DRB II will tell you which strut that it is seeing the problem at, If you have the factory serivice manual you can use a cheap analog voltmeter to do the same thing by counting pulses and referencing a chart. The DRB II is much easier but the voltmeter is MUCH cheaper.
 

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Wrenchmonkey #839
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