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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
need a help here 1992 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo was sitting about 14 years so what I did I took my spark plugs out I put some mystery marble oil in it just to make sure I don't damage my cylinders I let it sit for a couple of days and the other night I was trying to spend the crank manually was spinning pretty good not as smooth I wanted to but it was spinning today I was about to get all my marks line up to see if I am tooth off or what before I change the belt the thing is I cannot move the crank either Direction More than 180 it just stops so right now I can tell if I'm one tooth off or two teeth off I'm scratching my head right now at the moment I was thinking cut cut belt with a knife would it be a problem later on if the crank starts spinning around for me to line everything up I have no history about this car all in all worst case scenario belt could have jumped and then I'm done with the engine but there's no way of telling right now because I cannot line up the marks to even verify that crank will not spin appreciate your help as always old belt is still on!
 

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Science, bitch!
1992 VR4
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It could be a few different things causing it to seize. What are your plans for the car? If you’re trying to fix/restore the car, you should probably just pull the engine and transmission for a tear down and inspection.


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1992 3000GT VR4
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Are the plugs still out of it ?
From tuning it over by hand compression stroke will be a bit difficult to turn over by hand with plugs still in
If you cant seem to line up the timing marks you will need to definitely find out why
Cutting the belt would be a NO NO
Do not do what you see Yahoo's do on the web
Your cam lobes could be under load as if one piston maybe TDC and with cutting the belt would cause the spring to depress and spin your camshaft around violently do not do this you need to get it to 2 teeth before TDC cylinder 1 (on the crank)
This way the pistons are all down and not within any contact range with your valves if you plan on doing timing belt
Need to gently release tension mainly on bank 1 (front head) as both camshaft will be under a higher load tension to the valve springs then the rear bank (rear head) camshafts not as much tension DOHC
Need to check the status of your timing belt tensoiner as this is hydraulic OEM
unless other wise stated (solid tensioner)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are the plugs still out of it ?
From tuning it over by hand compression stroke will be a bit difficult to turn over by hand with plugs still in
If you cant seem to line up the timing marks you will need to definitely find out why
Cutting the belt would be a NO NO
Do not do what you see Yahoo's do on the web
Your cam lobes could be under load as if one piston maybe TDC and with cutting the belt would cause the spring to depress and spin your camshaft around violently do not do this you need to get it to 2 teeth before TDC cylinder 1 (on the crank)
This way the pistons are all down and not within any contact range with your valves if you plan on doing timing belt
Need to gently release tension mainly on bank 1 (front head) as both camshaft will be under a higher load tension to the valve springs then the rear bank (rear head) camshafts not as much tension DOHC
Need to check the status of your timing belt tensoiner as this is hydraulic OEM
unless other wise stated (solid tensioner)
sparplugs out since day one
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Plugs being out since day 1 !!! ?
you mean you just pulled them out
Not since the cars been sitting right ?
sry my bad yes i pull them out week ago and put some oil down to make sure when i spin crank manualy that i wont hurt anything and as today they still out but i cant spin the crank more than 180 2 days ago was going just fine?????
 

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Remove timing belt, remove cams, do a leakdown test, go from there.
Definitely sounds like valve issue doing leak down test with heads on or off will tell you
(Extreme carbon build up / bent valves / and checking the cylinder walls for binding piston rings)
If it was running a week ago might have trigger timing belt slippage for siting for so long
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Definitely sounds like valve issue doing leak down test with heads on or off will tell you
(Extreme carbon build up / bent valves / and checking the cylinder walls for binding piston rings)
If it was running a week ago might have trigger timing belt slippage for siting for so long
will do the test but car was never running {14 years} i was in process fixing things before will ever start the car that is the reason why i was checking on the timing marks {old belt}i have no history about this car other that was not in use last 14 years
 

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sry my bad yes i pull them out week ago and put some oil down to make sure when i spin crank manualy that i wont hurt anything and as today they still out but i cant spin the crank more than 180 2 days ago was going just fine?????
When I saw your first post, I was thinking like chang oil and box. Not being able to rotate crank more than 180 after sitting for 14 years could be so many major issues and with no history your lost. Anything in valve train broken bent rusted together or broken piston or connecting rod broken or bent or rod bearing spun and overlapping allowing etc.etc. But your .last post you said something different ..."2 days ago doing just fine". If just fine means you were able to rotate crank clockwise 360 over and over continuously that's a different story. You also say now only 180 "in either direction". My point...you should never rotate this engine manually in the counterclockwise direction more than a tooth or two as it puts tremendous backward pressure on the TB tensioner pulley which pushes the tensioner piston back in allowing for alot of sudden TB slack on the firewall side of the system. The slack allows the TB to lift up and off the rear spring- loaded cam gears and they quickly jump teeth. After the cams jump enough you now have a valve-piston interference problem and you can no longer rotate the crank very far. To get a rough idea you can count the number of teeth that each cam gear timing mark is clockwise ahead of its timing mark on the head. All four gears should be the same number of teeth off. The crank gear should be twice the number of teeth off it's timing mark compared to the camshaft teeth number if all five shafts still in time. Start by gently rotating the crank carefully clockwise until you begin to feel significant resistance...don't force it past that point. Count teeth from that stop point. This process will only tell you if valve interference is preventing rotation but tells you little about your lower end condition. Resetting timing gears would allow you to crank and do compression and leak down tests and how much time parts and money you'll need roughly and allow you to sleep better.
 

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Well if your gonna do timing belt regardless an other things in there as well
Timing belt kit tensioners idler pulleys so you don't have to go back in ther once you come out
But checking things while your in ther is a must
Then after all that checks out after leak down test
Compression test the cylinder
Good little bit of work but you want it right so you can enjoy it for sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When I saw your first post, I was thinking like chang oil and box. Not being able to rotate crank more than 180 after sitting for 14 years could be so many major issues and with no history your lost. Anything in valve train broken bent rusted together or broken piston or connecting rod broken or bent or rod bearing spun and overlapping allowing etc.etc. But your .last post you said something different ..."2 days ago doing just fine". If just fine means you were able to rotate crank clockwise 360 over and over continuously that's a different story. You also say now only 180 "in either direction". My point...you should never rotate this engine manually in the counterclockwise direction more than a tooth or two as it puts tremendous backward pressure on the TB tensioner pulley which pushes the tensioner piston back in allowing for alot of sudden TB slack on the firewall side of the system. The slack allows the TB to lift up and off the rear spring- loaded cam gears and they quickly jump teeth. After the cams jump enough you now have a valve-piston interference problem and you can no longer rotate the crank very far. To get a rough idea you can count the number of teeth that each cam gear timing mark is clockwise ahead of its timing mark on the head. All four gears should be the same number of teeth off. The crank gear should be twice the number of teeth off it's timing mark compared to the camshaft teeth number if all five shafts still in time. Start by gently rotating the crank carefully clockwise until you begin to feel significant resistance...don't force it past that point. Count teeth from that stop point. This process will only tell you if valve interference is preventing rotation but tells you little about your lower end condition. Resetting timing gears would allow you to crank and do compression and leak down tests and how much time parts and money you'll need roughly and allow you to sleep better.
Today I took off my timing belt water pump was leaking over the years perhaps and literally rusted out everything like every single pulley is disintegrated but that's okay I have all that in my garage so after belt came off I was trying to turn the crank it spins very nice and freely I guess my next step would be to do a leak down test and compression test I don't know how much damage I did with me turning the manually crank clockwise and counterclockwise that is the dumbest stuff I ever done in my life for sure so when I took the belt of course cam gears snapped I guess that was a lot of tension on it so my question would be to do the leak down test properly in reference to the cams
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Today I took off my timing belt water pump was leaking over the years perhaps and literally rusted out everything like every single pulley is disintegrated but that's okay I have all that in my garage so after belt came off I was trying to turn the crank it spins very nice and freely I guess my next step would be to do a leak down test and compression test I don't know how much damage I did with me turning the manually crank clockwise and counterclockwise that is the dumbest stuff I ever done in my life for sure so when I took the belt of course cam gears snapped I guess that was a lot of tension on it so my question would be to do the leak down test properly in reference to the cam
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Pull the cams out like I already said.

You can't do a compression test until you re-time the engine and refit the timing belt.
Yes sir I totally understand that there was my whole point I f** the belt because I was trying to make sure my cylinders are not stuck or seized and I done very dumb mistake turning it counterclockwise couple of times so what I'm trying to do since the belt is off I'm trying to get those sprockets or the cam sprockets whatever you can call it in time with a crankshaft then I'll install my belt and then I will perform the leak down test my only question was how do I realign the camshaft sprockets because when I took the belt off it was like more like 20 teeth off very possible because I was spinning the crankshaft the wrong way so I'm just trying to realign everything put the belt on if everything's checks out okay I will do my league down test in my compression test at the same time
 

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There's no point re-timing it if you've got 24 bent valves.

Pull the cams out, do a leakdown test.

When you're ready to re-time it, turn the crank to cylinder 1 TDC, wind it back anticlockwise slightly until all pistons are lowered in the bore, then time the cams one by one, inserting a locking bolt through the sprockets and into the head after each one, then go ahead and fit the belt.
 
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