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Needs moar boost!
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<b><h2>1991</h2></b>
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|black or white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|blue/black |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|blue |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|brn/blu or brn/wht |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown or brn/blu |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green/white | |white molex left kick |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|green or grn/blk | |left of column |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/yellow *2 |- |left of column |
| DOOR TRIGGER|red/green/ sil dots |- |left of column |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red/green *1 |- |sw. or light in trunk |
| HOOD PIN|blue/black |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|lt. green *3 |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| TACHOMETER|white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| SPEED SENSE|yellow/white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| BRAKE WIRE|green |+ |at switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|green/black |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blu/org, blu/blk |+ |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|grn/red - grn/blk |A |in drivers door |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/yel - grn/yel |A |in drivers door or dkp |


Notes:
*1 Also blue/white at ETACS if car has anti-theft. *2 Must power the negative park light wire to get the headlights to work. For pop-up, interrupt blue/red wire at pop-up switch and connect switch side to blue/yellow at pop-up switch to raise lights. *3 Must be relay isolated from the door key cylinder. *4 Also found at ECM behind center console. On SOHC models can also use white/black at the ignition coil for tach. *5 The ETACS module is located left of the steering column close to the drivers kick. It is flat with its edges facing up, down, front, and back, with its two plugs on the bottom edge.
<b><h2>1992</h2></b>
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|black or white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|blue/black |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|blue |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|brn/blu or brn/wht |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown or brn/blu |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green/white | |white molex left kick |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|green or grn/blk | |left of column |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/yellow *2 |- |left of column |
| DOOR TRIGGER|red/green/ sil dots |- |left of column |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red/green *1 |- |sw. or light in trunk |
| HOOD PIN|blue/black |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|lt. green *3 |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| TACHOMETER|white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| SPEED SENSE|yellow/white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| BRAKE WIRE|green |+ |at switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|green/black |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blu/org, blu/blk |+ |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|grn/red - grn/blk |A |in drivers door |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/yel - grn/yel |A |in drivers door or dkp |


Notes:
*1 Also blue/white at ETACS if car has anti-theft. *2 Must power the negative park light wire to get the headlights to work. For pop-up, interrupt blue/red wire at pop-up switch and connect switch side to blue/yellow at pop-up switch to raise lights. *3 Must be relay isolated from the door key cylinder. *4 Also found at ECM behind center console. On SOHC models can also use white/black at the ignition coil for tach. *5 The ETACS module is located left of the steering column close to the drivers kick. It is flat with its edges facing up, down, front, and back, with its two plugs on the bottom edge.
<b><h2>1993</h2></b>
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|black or white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|blue/black |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|blue |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|brn/blu or brn/wht |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown or brn/blu |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green/white | |white molex left kick |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|green or grn/blk | |left of column |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/yellow *2 |- |left of column |
| DOOR TRIGGER|red/green/ sil dots |- |left of column |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red/green *1 |- |sw. or light in trunk |
| HOOD PIN|blue/black |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|lt. green *3 |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| TACHOMETER|white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| SPEED SENSE|yellow/white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| BRAKE WIRE|green |+ |at switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|green/black |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blu/org, blu/blk |+ |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|grn/red - grn/blk |A |in drivers door |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/yel - grn/yel |A |in drivers door or dkp |


Notes:
*1 Also blue/white at ETACS if car has anti-theft. *2 Must power the negative park light wire to get the headlights to work. For pop-up, interrupt blue/red wire at pop-up switch and connect switch side to blue/yellow at pop-up switch to raise lights. *3 Must be relay isolated from the door key cylinder. *4 Also found at ECM behind center console. On SOHC models can also use white/black at the ignition coil for tach. *5 The ETACS module is located left of the steering column close to the drivers kick. It is flat with its edges facing up, down, front, and back, with its two plugs on the bottom edge.
 

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Needs moar boost!
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6,598 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
<b><h2>1994</h2></b>
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|blue/black |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|blue |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|brown/white |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown/blue |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| LOCK MOTOR|blue/black | |drivers kick panel |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|blue/red | |drivers kick panel |
| DISARM DEFEAT|blue/red | |passengers kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green/white | |white molex left kick |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|green or grn/blk | |left side of column |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/yellow *1 |- |left side of column |
| DOOR TRIGGER|red/green/ sil dots |- |left side of column |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red/green *2 |- |sw. or light in trunk |
| HOOD PIN|blue/black |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|green/blue *3 |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| TACHOMETER|white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| SPEED SENSE|yellow/white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| BRAKE WIRE|green |+ |at switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|green/black |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blu/org, blu/blk |+ |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|grn/red - grn/blk |A |in drivers door |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/yel - grn/yel |A |in drivers door or dkp |


Notes:
*1 Must use the negative park light wire to get headlights to work. *2 Also blue/white at ETACS if car has anti-theft. *3 Must be relay isolated from the door key cylinder. *4 Also found at ECM behind center console. On SOHC models can also use white/black at the ignition coil for tach. *5 The ETACS module is located left of the steering column close to the drivers kick. It is flat with its edges facing up, down, front, and back, with its two plugs on the bottom edge.
<b><h2>1995</h2></b>
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|blue/black |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|blue/white |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|brown/white |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown/blue |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| LOCK MOTOR|blue/black | |drivers kick panel |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|blue/red | |drivers kick panel |
| DISARM DEFEAT|blue/red | |passengers kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green/white | |white molex left kick |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|green or grn/blk | |left side of column |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/yellow *1 |- |left side of column |
| DOOR TRIGGER|red/green/ sil dots |- |left side of column |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red/green *2 |- |sw. or light in trunk |
| HOOD PIN|blue/black |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|green/blue *3 |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| TACHOMETER|white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| SPEED SENSE|yellow/white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| BRAKE WIRE|green |+ |at switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|green/black |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blu/org, blu/blk |+ |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|grn/red - grn/blk |A |in drivers door |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/yel - grn/yel |A |in drivers door or dkp |


Notes:
*1 Must use the negative park light wire to get headlights to work. *2 Also blue/white at ETACS if car has anti-theft. *3 Must be relay isolated from the door key cylinder. *4 Also found at ECM behind center console. On SOHC models can also use white/black at the ignition coil for tach. *5 The ETACS module is located left of the steering column close to the drivers kick. It is flat with its edges facing up, down, front, and back, with its two plugs on the bottom edge.
<b><h2>1996</h2></b>
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|blue/black |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|blue/white |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|brown/white |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown/blue |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| LOCK MOTOR|blue/black | |drivers kick panel |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|blue/red | |drivers kick panel |
| DISARM DEFEAT|blue/red | |passengers kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green/white | |white molex left kick |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|green or grn/blk | |left side of column |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/yellow *1 |- |left side of column |
| DOOR TRIGGER|red/green/ sil dots |- |left side of column |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red/green *2 |- |sw. or light in trunk |
| HOOD PIN|blue/black |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|green/blue *3 |- |ETACS mod. under dash *5 |
| TACHOMETER|white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| SPEED SENSE|yellow/white | |instrument cluster *4 |
| BRAKE WIRE|green |+ |at switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|green/black |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blu/org, blu/blk |+ |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|grn/red - grn/blk |A |in drivers door |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/yel - grn/yel |A |in drivers door or dkp |


Notes:
*1 Must use the negative park light wire to get headlights to work. *2 Also blue/white at ETACS if car has anti-theft. *3 Must be relay isolated from the door key cylinder. *4 Also found at ECM behind center console. On SOHC models can also use white/black at the ignition coil for tach. *5 The ETACS module is located left of the steering column close to the drivers kick. It is flat with its edges facing up, down, front, and back, with its two plugs on the bottom edge.
 

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Surf's Up!
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2,322 Posts
Thanks a million for posting this!

I love the 3SI community!
 

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Premium Member
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746 Posts
I think I posted earlier on setting up the relay in order to isolate the factory alarm disarm wire away from the switch.
 

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ictponder said:
I think I posted earlier on setting up the relay in order to isolate the factory alarm disarm wire away from the switch.
It seemed to me there was another output on the new alarm that would kill the old alarm too
 

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I took a pic of my driver's side kick plate - am I in the right area? - I see a brown and blue there to the right. Could I just hook my alarm's lock/unlock wire to these?

I am trying to add keyless entry with an Alpine alarm (not hooking up the rest of the alarm): http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=378258

For the 92 this post said:
"POWER LOCK|brn/blu or brn/wht |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown or brn/blu |- |high on firewall by DKP |"
 

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bump...
 

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Take a test light and ground the alligator clip, strip away a small spot on each wire for lock/unlock and touch them with the other end of the test light. If you have the right wire, once you touch them you will hear the door locks activate. If not, then you don't have the right wires. I would suggest looking at the harness that comes out of the door. It will not harm anything to test with the test light as it is only a ground.

 

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Big C
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1,511 Posts
just stumbled upon this thread, does this hold true for the 3k GT too?

or are there any differences in the wiring involved with the install of alarm/key-less entry...
 

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TT's suck
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3,641 Posts
just stumbled upon this thread, does this hold true for the 3k GT too?

or are there any differences in the wiring involved with the install of alarm/key-less entry...
no difference, Stealth
s and 3000GT's are exactly the same from trim level to trim level
 

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Big C
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sweet so now i can finally have a keyless entry and move into the 1990's....

now if only i can properly install the alarm and remote starter myself that'd be an accomplishment, especially since I don't really trust anyone working on my car, except maybe Jeff(440 4x4), but I think installing alarms are not in his repertoire...
 

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Anybody ever figure out the best/easiest/most efficient way to access the factory wires to connect the lock/unlock wires for a keyless or alarm on a first gen unit?
 

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Anybody ever figure out the best/easiest/most efficient way to access the factory wires to connect the lock/unlock wires for a keyless or alarm on a first gen unit?
Dave Haze has come up with a way using a relay, to isolate the aftermarket keyless enty door unlock from the factory alarm disarm.

I believe the easier way is to use a diode. They sell them at radio shack. It was required by 1989 toyota supra and works great. But I just spent 2 hours searching 3si thread and cant find any info on this topic of diodes and it is very disappointing to read the posts of lost souls all the way back from 2001 being confused about this and getting no awnsers.



(after market provide negative trigger to unlock door. Use that wire and split it with two diodes in the proper position and pointing in the right direction for isolation. Run one wire to the door unlock and one wire to the alarm disable....


now the car unlocks without setting off alarm (isolated alarm from door unock)

It seemed to me there was another output on the new alarm that would kill the old alarm too
Im going to try this two I have an open wires on the aftermarket keyless entry but not sure if it works.

edit: best info i found saved me time it only took 5 minutes to find after i set on my back looking up in the dash for 30 minutes...

"| POWER LOCK|brn/blu or brn/wht |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown or brn/blu |- |high on firewall by DKP |"
Well good F*&%ing luck with that. If you flip completely upside down, pull yourself sideways under the dash, and look towards the drivers side of the car in the very back against the firewall. you can see half of a plastic holder that houses 3 or 4 relays. One of those controls the doors. If you try to look and can even find the wires somewhere in the 5 million running there and you can some how manage to get your arms up there then by all means have at it. What I did as an alternative was create my own little wire bundle for the lock wires and feed it through the wall to the door and vice versa for the wires from the auto window closing unit to the cabin. I wanted the window closer unit to be in the door. I just spliced all the wires to the drivers side door switch. Here is an idea of it
quote from:
http://www.**********/body-paint-all-rest/9943-advancedkey-install-**super-cool**100%-keyless**.html

The door lock & unlock wire can be accessed in the driver's side kick panel area at the power doorlock relay.
Unlock = Brown / Blue
Lock = Brown / White

Both take a negative pulse to trigger.
much easier place to get at it is in behind the carpet to the left of the dead pedal, much easier to get at then the relay, only problem is there are a lot of wires there so it's kind of tricky to find, but it's in there an a hell of alot easier to get at, just did my remote start/alarm/keyless a week ago, took about 4 hrs or so, if you're just doing keyless and you're unexperienced at doing these I'd say probably 2-3 hrs it should take
 

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"| POWER LOCK|brn/blu or brn/wht |- |high on firewall by DKP |
| POWER UNLOCK|brown or brn/blu |- |high on firewall by DKP |"
Well good F*&%ing luck with that. If you flip completely upside down, pull yourself sideways under the dash, and look towards the drivers side of the car in the very back against the firewall. you can see half of a plastic holder that houses 3 or 4 relays. One of those controls the doors. If you try to look and can even find the wires somewhere in the 5 million running there and you can some how manage to get your arms up there then by all means have at it. What I did as an alternative was create my own little wire bundle for the lock wires and feed it through the wall to the door and vice versa for the wires from the auto window closing unit to the cabin. I wanted the window closer unit to be in the door. I just spliced all the wires to the drivers side door switch. Here is an idea of it
quote from:
http://www.**********/body-paint-all-rest/9943-advancedkey-install-**super-cool**100%-keyless**.html

The door lock & unlock wire can be accessed in the driver's side kick panel area at the power doorlock relay.
Unlock = Brown / Blue
Lock = Brown / White

Both take a negative pulse to trigger.
much easier place to get at it is in behind the carpet to the left of the dead pedal, much easier to get at then the relay, only problem is there are a lot of wires there so it's kind of tricky to find, but it's in there an a hell of alot easier to get at, just did my remote start/alarm/keyless a week ago, took about 4 hrs or so, if you're just doing keyless and you're unexperienced at doing these I'd say probably 2-3 hrs it should take
i tried to look in the bundle of wires near the dead pedal and there is no brown wires except brown-red!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

this sucks someone help

btw, i undid two connects from etacs to disable alarm, well both have a green lime wire but one is 2x big as the other.....i am going to hook to smalre but i need better directions...
 

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1st Gen Lock/Unlock relays are located in this white bracket. Unscrew the white bracket, yes its humanly possible, and BEHOLD! the magical Brown/Blue, Brown/White wires.

 
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