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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
So the exact procedure is (I will add this to my longer posts once i confirm this, will try after work):

1. Open CoolTerm on your PC. Change settings to 38.4k baud (if this is the OBD2 device's original baud rate).
2. Plug in OBD2 to USB and power it up.
3. Hit connect with coolterm. Press Enter. Typing ATI and enter will confirm it is connected and repeat its version number.
4. Enter "AT PP 0C SV 23" (without the quotes) to set the OBD2 baud rate to 115.2k. It should respond with OK.
5. Enter "AT PP 0C ON" (without quotes) to tell the OBD2 to use the new baud rate.
6. Power down the device and exit CoolTerm.
7. Reopen CoolTerm and set baud rate to 115.2k. Power on device, connect, hit enter, run ATI command, and confirm it responds using new baud rate.
8. Change baud rate settings in Torque app to 57.6k baud, which is actually 115.2k baud.
9. Check your PIDs/sec in adapter status to see if you achieved faster speeds.
I confirmed this worked to change the baud rate of the USB OBD2 to 115.2k. After testing it on the way to work, it definitely increased the PIDs/sec speed in torque. I am now seeing close to 200, and the information is much more "realtime". I updated the very first post in this thread with the instructions.
 

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Glad you got it working. Perhaps your device already came with a 4.032mhz crystal if it is glitch free.

The barometer is available as a PID on Torque. But the question is, can you refer to the barometer PID when defining a custom PID -- that I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Glad you got it working. Perhaps your device already came with a 4.032mhz crystal if it is glitch free.
I still have the random/intermittent incorrect value, seems most obvious for WBO2 signal every few seconds. I guess I can deal with that. At least I am getting 200+ PIDs/sec consistently it seems.

The barometer is available as a PID on Torque. But the question is, can you refer to the barometer PID when defining a custom PID -- that I don't know.
The value for "barometic pressure (from vehicle)" in Torque doesnt ever move. Is that what you were talking about? Should that be something that is coming from the MAF? So if mine isnt moving do I have a potential issue with my MAF?

I have a "Barometer (on andriod device)" which is obviously coming from my phone. But i doubt that could be used?
 

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Watching the barometer change is like waiting for water to boil, but much worse, as it probably takes hours/days to see any changes. If you have a stock MAF then yes the baro will change eventually.

The baro PID is 33. Produces a value between 0 and 255, units are kPA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Giving this thread a bit of a bump after over a year to follow up on a few items.

I still use this datalogging setup every time i drive the car, although it is not my daily anymore.

I solved my knock issues by getting my injectors flow tested and cleaned. I also switched to a 60/40 E85/91 fuel mix. The car runs great. More on that here:
https://www.3si.org/forum/f35/psa-how-bad-your-fuel-injectors-get-them-cleaned-819349/

I also fixed my spark blowout issues by switching to NGK copper non-resistor plugs with a 0.026'' gap. More here:
https://www.3si.org/forum/f35/spark-plugs-plug-gap-e-85-e-85-pump-blends-blowout-issues-818703/

Overall, very pleased with this datalogging setup. It helped me discover, diagnose, and solve several issues, and allowed me to do my own tuning. Not only that, but i feel much more comfortable driving the car hard when i have all this data at my fingertips.

Shout out to BlackStealth for making the device and always being helpful on the forums (along with others who have chimed in on various threads).
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Bumping this thread because I updated the torque pro app today and after getting back in the car to drive home it would not connect... turns out the update reset the Baud rate in the app, and it would not communicate with my USB wired OBD2 adapter. After i reset the baud rate, it connected without issue.

Something to keep in mind if you update the app.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
How can I get one of those scanners also I have 1994 diamante v6 sohc 6g72

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Contact BlackStealth here on the forums. Not entirely sure it will work with your car though.
 

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Here's my recent log. Any help
understanding why I'm failing emissions would be appreciated. content://com.asus.filemanager.OpenFileProvider/file/sdcard/torqueLogs/zipExport-2019-12-02_05-52-92/data/trackLog-2019-Dec-02_05-25-34.csv
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Here's my recent log. Any help
understanding why I'm failing emissions would be appreciated. content://com.asus.filemanager.OpenFileProvider/file/sdcard/torqueLogs/zipExport-2019-12-02_05-52-92/data/trackLog-2019-Dec-02_05-25-34.csv
The file path you provided looks to be a local path to where the file was stored on your PC/device. You will need to attach the file to your post or upload somewhere that we can access it publicly.

Also, do you have a WBO2 wired into the converter to log AFRs? That is the main thing that might give a clue as to why you may not be passing emissions.
 

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thank you for your reply. No I do not have a wideband would you mind finding it on Amazon for me and posting the link because I'm pretty sure I don't need to buy the meter I just need to censor correct?
Doing so would also update the thread for other people that may need one as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I dont think you can wire in the sensor without the gauge... it may technically be possible but the way it is setup is that the sensor harness connects to the gauge and the signal wire that would go into BlackStealths converter comes from the gauge. It would require some custom wiring to directly use the sensor (with the converter) without the gauge if it is even possible.

You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS

Other options are available but that one is popular. Note there may also be a newer version of that available. Also note this is not directly plug and play on a stock car since you need an additional O2 bung welded into your exhaust somewhere after the front and rear banks merge. I wouldnt just jump on buying one of these with the hopes of it diagnosing emissions problems, but it is very important for a TT car with any mods (or even stock for that matter).

You can look at your stock narrowband O2 sensor voltages in datalogs with the converter without needing the above, but its only a somewhat qualitative assessment of if you are running too rich (which can be tied to emissions problems).
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
First, you need to post an actual CSV of the entire log... a snapshot of a few data points is kindof useless.

Second, i am not sure exactly what you are trying to figure out from the log. If you are trying to figure out why you aren't passing emissions, you would need to log under the conditions you would be tested in... presumably idle and then something like 2500 rpm. Like i said you arent really going to get much useful information for that purpose from a log... the main thing you can look at is your stock O2 sensor voltages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Yes, the first and third columns that are reading on the 0.9 range are the NBO2 voltages. 0.9 is rich, which might make sense based on your TPS and MAF (it looks like you were accelerating under boost). The other two O2 columns you have aren't showing any real data (constant at 0.02), you can remove those. Earlier in this thread i discussed which are the "real" ones to log.

The key thing to look at will be to see if your O2 voltages are cycling when at idle and light throttle to confirm your O2 sensors are working and the ECU is operating in closed loop to target a 14.7 AFR.
 
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