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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys after rebuilding the top end of my engine i have everything put back together and went to start it and i just got a crank but no start. no codes show up, i have fuel spark and compression, and my timing is good. i have a video that represents exactly what it is doing here:
 

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1992 3000GT VR4
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Did you happen to turn this crank assembly over by hand..... and have you double checked your timing marks..... and was this rebuild done when you set the timing to top dead center (timing set before engine tare down)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you happen to turn this crank assembly over by hand..... and have you double checked your timing marks..... and was this rebuild done when you set the timing to top dead center (timing set before engine tare down)
Yes i have turned the crank over by hand. my timing is right on but idk what the timing was at when the teardown happened
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Your fuse to your ecu is blown.... I would start ther first .... might have been during build battery was still hooked up ?
no the battery was not hooked up during the build.
Yeah unplug scanner replace fuse and try cranking ..... let it warm up on it's own.... no revs .... make sure it has oil pressure and doesnt over heat
ok i will when i get the intake back on. would i have to take the scanner out cause i have it on the data stream so i can see all the info the engine is putting out
 

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That definitely sounds like some sort of timing problem or an extremely weak battery, because of the near pauses on compression of each cylinder. Below guesses.

1) Weak battery.
2) Cams installed in wrong positions, intake and exhaust reversed on one or both banks.
3) Cams not timed to crank, even though you mentioned it good.
4) Crank sensor flipped or bad if a new one, firing on wrong edge of flags.
5) Reluctor plate (ninja star) slipped on crank cog gear, not firing at right time.
6) Cam sensor ninja star or sensor mounting problem, confusing ECU about which cylinder is coming to TDC.
7) Plug wires routed to wrong cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That definitely sounds like some sort of timing problem or an extremely weak battery, because of the near pauses on compression of each cylinder. Below guesses.

1) Weak battery.
2) Cams installed in wrong positions, intake and exhaust reversed on one or both banks.
3) Cams not timed to crank, even though you mentioned it good.
4) Crank sensor flipped or bad if a new one, firing on wrong edge of flags.
5) Reluctor plate (ninja star) slipped on crank cog gear, not firing at right time.
6) Cam sensor ninja star or sensor mounting problem, confusing ECU about which cylinder is coming to TDC.
7) Plug wires routed to wrong cylinders.
I have a battery charger when cranking but i will get a new one
I just checked the cams are in the right position (why i have to put on the manifold rn)
I never heard of timing it to crank so maybe
crank sensor is new and it is reading on my scanner
I checked that before i put the new sensor in
I checked the crank sensor all seems fine
I checked the plugs also

so i honestly think i might have to do timing again if that but imma check my ecu fuse then try all that. Thank you for your response
 

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All this could be the result of a slightly dead battery and strain on everything
Try with new battery first thing tomm ..... or if you have a good fully charged one on hand I would try that .... but with your ecu .... check engine light not coming on .... you have no power going to yours cars computer ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
All this could be the result of a slightly dead battery and strain on everything
Try with new battery first thing tomm ..... or if you have a good fully charged one on hand I would try that .... but with your ecu .... check engine light not coming on .... you have no power going to yours cars computer ....
so looking at my scanner my air temp sensor and CLT temp sensor are at 362 degrees fahrenheit. is this another problem with the ecu?
 

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This could all be from how long you've been trying to crank your vehicle..... with a dead batt... it will in deed short things out .... but again for your vehicle to crank up and run properly you have to have power running to your ECU ... your car can't run properly without the POWER going to your ecu .... now if you unplug your scanner which could be causing the back feed in power causing your ecu fuse to pop I would again say unplug scanner and run the car with out the scanner hooked up to it .... and it might just crank right up for ya ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This could all be from how long you've been trying to crank your vehicle..... with a dead batt... it will in deed short things out .... but again for your vehicle to crank up and run properly you have to have power running to your ECU ... your car can't run properly without the POWER going to your ecu .... now if you unplug your scanner which could be causing the back feed in power causing your ecu fuse to pop I would again say unplug scanner and run the car with out the scanner hooked up to it .... and it might just crank right up for ya ....
my ecu fuse was never popped. my ecu has power as i pulled it and my scanner disconnected. plugged it back in and my scanner reconnected. so my ecu has power, again i have spark fuel and compression. it might be a ignition problem trying to fire before it gets to tdc but idk
 

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I just checked the cams are in the right position (why i have to put on the manifold rn)
So I assume you mean you verified the intake cams were marked with a “J” and exhaust cams were marked with a “K”, as indicated by the attached chart.


I never heard of timing it to crank so maybe
:unsure:…. I hope you just misunderstood what was meant. Was the crank gear on its mark (pictured below), when cam gears where lined up to their marks? The most important thing is cams are timed to the crank.
click on image to enlarge

so i pulled of my iac and it was really warm to the touch. keep in mind my car was not running. could there be a short here?
Could be and if so it’s a chance it could have damaged injector drivers in ECU. See below clip of how to test ohms on the four coils. Your ’95 probably has the black top unit which falls in the ~ 40 ohm range for each coil.
click on image to enlarge
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I assume you mean you verified the intake cams were marked with a “J” and exhaust cams were marked with a “K”, as indicated by the attached chart.
yes my cams are correct
I hope you just misunderstood what was meant. Was the crank gear on its mark (pictured below), when cam gears where lined up to their marks? The most important thing is cams are timed to the crank.
i must have misunderstood because all my marks are lined up
Could be and if so it’s a chance it could have damaged injector drivers in ECU. See below clip of how to test ohms on the four coils. Your ’95 probably has the black top unit which falls in the ~ 40 ohm range for each coil.
all my coils had 40 ohm
i also just figured out coil pack for cylinder 3 and 6 are not firing. had the same issue before the rebuild. has new plugs and wires, all new coils.
 
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