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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok I installed a new car stereo according tho these wire codes

Amplifier Gray/Blue Left Rear (-)
Amplifier Yellow/Blue Left Rear (+)
Amplifier Gray/Red Right Rear (-)
Amplifier Yellow/Red Right Rear (+)
Amplifier White/Blue Left Door (+)
Amplifier Black/Blue Left Door (-)
Amplifier White/Red Right Door (+)
Amplifier Black/Red Right Door (-)

Amplifier White/Blue w/Silver Dots Left Front (+)
Amplifier Black/Blue w/Silver Dots Left Front (-)
Amplifier White/Red w/Silver Dots Right Front (+)
Amplifier Black/Red w/Silver Dots Right Front (-)

but it sounds like ass, so I figured the stock amp was causing this, So I took out the passenger seat and unhooked the amp, and the speakers still worked. This didn't make sense to me.

The stock and has these colored wires going in but none coming out, I dont get it, and the speakers shouldn't work with it unplugged.

anyone know whats going on? I'm confused.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
is the DIN going into the amp the input wires?

I still dont get how the speakers are working right now with the amp unhooked.
 

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ok I installed a new car stereo according tho these wire codes


but it sounds like ass, so I figured the stock amp was causing this, So I took out the passenger seat and unhooked the amp, and the speakers still worked. This didn't make sense to me.

The stock and has these colored wires going in but none coming out, I dont get it, and the speakers shouldn't work with it unplugged.

anyone know whats going on? I'm confused.
The radio plug has parallel connections to the amp plug. Except for the dash speakers. The amp is fed from the din plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
+1

yea thats what I figured, but the speaker outs from the stock stereo also run the speakers... weird...

anyways, I dont think my stereo liked running all 4 front speakers on 2 channels, thats what made it sound like crap. sounds good with the 4 normal speakers tho. so I'm happy now lol.
 

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+1

yea thats what I figured, but the speaker outs from the stock stereo also run the speakers... weird...

anyways, I dont think my stereo liked running all 4 front speakers on 2 channels, thats what made it sound like crap. sounds good with the 4 normal speakers tho. so I'm happy now lol.
The stock radio only has an output thru the din cable not the radio plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I didnt even have to bypass the amp, I just unplugged it.

The radio has all the speaker wires hooked to it so that worked for me... from the 14P connector.

 

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I didnt even have to bypass the amp, I just unplugged it.

The radio has all the speaker wires hooked to it so that worked for me... from the 14P connector.

This is not an infinity radio diagram. It is missing the amp output. Like I said "The radio plug has parallel connections to the amp plug. Except for the dash speakers." Thats why the doors and rears work.

Now on the cars without infinity the dash speakers are jumpered to the doors about 1' up from the radio plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yea its missing the amp output, but it still worked the way I did it, there is no need for that amp bypass cable thing how I did it.
 

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As stated the infinity systems on these cars have direct speaker wires wired in parallel with the amplifier outputs. So when you install an aftermarket stereo you don't have to bypass the amp, you can just hook up the new radio that exact same way you would in a non-externally amplified stock audio system, i.e. just wire the new radio's harness to the correct vehicle wiring harness and then it's just plug and play.

The input to the amplifier is large round plug, and this plug carries both the input signal and the remote turn on lead. So unless you use a MITAH integrator or make your own integrator the stock amplifier will remain off when you are using an aftermarket radio.

The diagram you posted is for a radio that contains an internal amplifier, so it can drive it's own speakers. The normal Infinity radio has another round plug that is similar to the changer plug only less pins, only 6 or 5 total I believe. This is the plug that carries the input signal to the factory amplifier.
 

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The METRA 70-7002 is the amp bypass harness it is a harness that plugs into the amps white plug. It could be used for an aftermarket amp addition or even an aftermarket radio since it has the dash speaker connections.

The Mitah is to use an aftermarket amp with a stock radio or an aftermarket radio with the stock amp.

So Why use the stock amp with an aftermarket radio? Because most aftermarket radios are rated from 18-22 watts. Panasonic has a 31x4 radio. Forget the 50x4 or 60x4 BS it's not RMS. The factory amp is 32w.
 

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The METRA 70-7002 is the amp bypass harness it is a harness that plugs into the amps white plug. It could be used for an aftermarket amp addition or even an aftermarket radio since it has the dash speaker connections.

The Mitah is to use an aftermarket amp with a stock radio or an aftermarket radio with the stock amp.

So Why use the stock amp with an aftermarket radio? Because most aftermarket radios are rated from 18-22 watts. Panasonic has a 31x4 radio. Forget the 50x4 or 60x4 BS it's not RMS. The factory amp is 32w.
You don't need a bypass harness, the 3/s cars came with an aftermarket friendly wiring setup unlike certain Galants and 3rd gen Eclipses. All you need is a harness like a metra 70-7001. You wire the harness that came with the new radio to the 70-7001 and then just plug it in and all the speakers except for the dash speakers will play.

Aside from added power output the stock amplifier also has built in crossovers for the front speakers and it ties in the tweeters in the dash. So it will provide better sound than just running the speakers off the head unit.
 

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You don't need a bypass harness, the 3/s cars came with an aftermarket friendly wiring setup unlike certain Galants and 3rd gen Eclipses. All you need is a harness like a metra 70-7001. You wire the harness that came with the new radio to the 70-7001 and then just plug it in and all the speakers except for the dash speakers will play.

Aside from added power output the stock amplifier also has built in crossovers for the front speakers and it ties in the tweeters in the dash. So it will provide better sound than just running the speakers off the head unit.
The infinity dash speakers are not tweeters. They are not fed just high frequencies either. Later on the Diamante added tweeters on the corners of the doors. They were in parallel with the doors and have a bass blocker on them. Now if the diamante amp was used the output would be louder, cleaner and the right ch would not be weak. There would also be less blown speakers. http://www.3si.org/forum/f6/mitsubishi-oem-amp-test-results-361249/
 

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The infinity dash speakers are not tweeters. They are not fed just high frequencies either. Later on the Diamante added tweeters on the corners of the doors. They were in parallel with the doors and have a bass blocker on them. Now if the diamante amp was used the output would be louder, cleaner and the right ch would not be weak. There would also be less blown speakers. http://www.3si.org/forum/f6/mitsubishi-oem-amp-test-results-361249/
By definition you are right, they are not tweeters. Regardless of terminology they do suck at playing low frequency which is why I referred to them the way I did. Also I never stated the amplifier had internal high pass filters for the dash speakers, I only said it had "built in crossovers for the front speakers", specifically it has low pass filters for the door speakers.

That is some interesting info for the different stock amps you can use with the system. Are you still sourcing these amps?
 

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By definition you are right, they are not tweeters. Regardless of terminology they do suck at playing low frequency which is why I referred to them the way I did. Also I never stated the amplifier had internal high pass filters for the dash speakers, I only said it had "built in crossovers for the front speakers", specifically it has low pass filters for the door speakers.

That is some interesting info for the different stock amps you can use with the system. Are you still sourcing these amps?
I've never had tweeters on my stock door speaker output so I don't know about low pass filtering. But many others have, you would think someone would complain of the lack of high frequencies. I ran the dash speaker wires to a crossover when the components were installed on the stock amps. http://www.3si.org/forum/f6/dash-door-speaker-alternative-installation-review-273322/

The only amp I have left I believe is an evo 315 watt one. It seemed to be bassier than the Montero 315 w amp I didn't like it as much when I tested it in the wifes car.
 

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I've never had tweeters on my stock door speaker output so I don't know about low pass filtering. But many others have, you would think someone would complain of the lack of high frequencies. I ran the dash speaker wires to a crossover when the components were installed on the stock amps. http://www.3si.org/forum/f6/dash-door-speaker-alternative-installation-review-273322/

The only amp I have left I believe is an evo 315 watt one. It seemed to be bassier than the Montero 315 w amp I didn't like it as much when I tested it in the wifes car.
I would imagine a lot of people don't pay attention to whether the doors play high frequencies if they put in new rear speakers or got the dash speakers to work. My buddies 3rd gen eclipse amp did the same thing so I swapped the front door output to the 6x9's in the back and ran his components off the rear channels. All I had to do was flip the inputs coming from the new radio and it worked fine. I installed the components in my car using the crossover that came with the set strictly for the tweeters and then just ran the drivers straight off the amp. It made the install simple and it sounds much better than just using the radio's internal amp.

You amp swapping endevour has me considering just swapping the factory amp for another or shelling out another $30-$50 for a small Alpine 4 channel amp. Decisions decisions.
 

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I would imagine a lot of people don't pay attention to whether the doors play high frequencies if they put in new rear speakers or got the dash speakers to work. My buddies 3rd gen eclipse amp did the same thing so I swapped the front door output to the 6x9's in the back and ran his components off the rear channels. All I had to do was flip the inputs coming from the new radio and it worked fine. I installed the components in my car using the crossover that came with the set strictly for the tweeters and then just ran the drivers straight off the amp. It made the install simple and it sounds much better than just using the radio's internal amp.

You amp swapping endevour has me considering just swapping the factory amp for another or shelling out another $30-$50 for a small Alpine 4 channel amp. Decisions decisions.
Alpine :D
 

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That's kind of how I was leaning. I need to make some measurements first to verify that it will fit under the seat though, otherwise I'll have to make a second amp rack that will force me to remove my storage bin.
I'm confused by the measurements. I would like to see a pic with the measurements. It seems wider than longer.
If the amps largest measurement has the power connections & inputs. I know I could make it fit.
 

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The amp I'm looking at is 11.25w x 9.5626d X 2.375h

The connections are made on the d side, so there would be plenty of room provided the height doesn't pose an issue. However the crossovers for my components are good size so I am not sure how easily it will all fit if I try to keep the crossovers where they are.
 

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The amp I'm looking at is 11.25w x 9.5626d X 2.375h

The connections are made on the d side, so there would be plenty of room provided the height doesn't pose an issue. However the crossovers for my components are good size so I am not sure how easily it will all fit if I try to keep the crossovers where they are.
You need the connections on the w side all you have between the seat rails is about 9.5". The seat lock and release controls will hit it if it is wider.
 
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