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For some time now I have been trying to find somewhere a comparative analyst done on the various motor oils and how they rate, one to another, and ran across this article written by Mr. Ed Hackett.

I haven’t had a chance to contact Mr. Hackett to inquire about his back ground, but I did confirm his numbers he has on Mobil 1. Since I use Mobil 1 and contacted Mobil and they confirmed the numbers he has recorded in his data are the same numbers they have on their product data sheet. Mr. Hackett’s article makes very interesting reading.

He compares viscosities, utilizing a viscosity index, flash points, pour points, % of ash and zinc. For further explanation check out this article at the following site:
http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

This just goes to confirm my believes regarding Mobil 1, but it also includes some interesting information on Redline, Castrol, Valvoline and most every other oil available for sale. It also includes Amsoil, which, to my surprise, came out fairly well in the ratings. Just check it out and see how your oil rates.

Enjoy and Happy Holidays Everyone,

Merry Christmas

Dave Best
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Dave,
I have a question for you. I currently use Mobile 1 15w-50(reduced oil burn and ticking). Based on my understanding of the link you posted, I sould be fine with this weight oil as long as the temp does not fall below -25 or so, Is this correct?

Alan
 

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Thanks, Dave. Very informative indeed. It reaffirmed my conviction to the castrol (petroleum based) line. My last vehicle had over 200k when I sold it and the engine was still tight. I know everyone swears by synthetics, but as often as I change oil, I just can't justify the cost. I do though, have redline in the transaxle, xfer, and diff.

I realize that I have turbos to think of now, but if I am religious about my cool-down, shouldn't that minimize the coking problems?
Is that not the main reason for going with the synthetics? I'm not sure.

Steve
 

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Hi guys,

Based upon what I have learned, I’ll try to answer your questions.

First Alan, You should not have any problems running the 15W-50 in warmer climates. I have also heard some of the guys up north even run the 0W-30 in the winter. The only thing I would suspect is that run that thick of oil or heavy a weight it just makes your oil pump work a little harder but you should be fine.

Second, Black94TT, heat is your worst enemy to old dinosaurs oil and if you do continue to follow a good cool down procedure you should be much better off. But synthetics do give you better wear resistance overall. Mobil cites an engine they ran a million miles and took it a part and found no measurable wear.

Just FYI if anyone wants to talk with Mobil call them at 1-800-ASK-MOBIL, they can give you more complete answers based upon real tests.

Hope this helps
Dave Best
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this is very informative but I have also noticed that any oil with the mixture of motor-up really helps.I have had the car for about 3yrs and about 120k miles on it and my hesitation did stopp(engine vibration)when i used motor-up twice.I think the only problem I had was the seals giving up but I am still not discouraged in using motor-up.My next move is to use that Amsoil.
 

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I used Mobil 1 in several previous sports cars, including one turbocharged car and never much liked the results. This is quite subjective, I don't have any solid facts to back up my opinion here. It seemed that performance was poorer and I needed to add oil between changes. I also replaced a turbo and a set of rings on the one car. I can't peg this to the Mobil 1, it just happened while using it. At the time I found a got better results with Castrol (conventional) lubricants.

I have been very pleased with RedLine's transmission fliuds, gear oil, SI-1 fuel additive and water wetter so I put their 10W-30 oil in the engine.

I can't say anything about it one way or the other. It seems fine after 2000 miles (no big pluses or minuses). I expect to change it after 6 months or 6000 miles.

Again, my reason for using RedLine is more linked to the results with their other products. The transmission fliud (and transfer case) made a dramatic improvement in the shiftability of my VR4. The SI-1 completely eliminated fouled intake ports in 2 applications.

I do use the Mobil 1 oil filter and like it very much.

I'm sure Mobil 1 is a good oil product. It just didn't have a good history with me.

Chris
 
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FWIW, I used to work on aircraft quite a bit, and Mobil Oil also had a synthetic aircraft engine oil touted as being the best oil available. Well several aircraft, I am not sure of the numbers whether it was in the hundreds or not, but all these airplanes had to have a complete top overhaul done to them due to the Mobil 1 not properly lubricating the camshafts and plungers. It was on a specific model of Continental aircraft engine where the camshaft was situated higher on the engine.
Apparently the oil was not clinging to the metal or running off too soon causing drastically increased wear rates.
As a result Mobil had to fork over millions of dollars in repairs and no longer sells Mobil 1 for use in aircraft.
Feel free to correct me, anyone who has more experience with this specific case. Mike F
P.S. I use Castrol Syntec 5W-50
 
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I noticed that SHAFFERS LUBRICANT motor oil was not included in the comparrison article. Anybody familure with SHAFFERS? They only make lubricants. Unlike most oil companies that make thier oil from a by-product of producing gasoline, SHAFFERS selects crude for its lubricating properties.
What say you?
 
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