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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got my adpators to install my HKS coilovers, running into some issues with securing the brake lines and the other line...abs? wheel speed?

Any one have any pictures of how they secured them? Im thinking ill just buy some sort of brackets I can bend to make everything work. Dont see many pictures for inspiration though, perhaps Im over thinking it and just need to use some zip ties?
 

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Use zip ties to secure it to the body of the coilovers. Or cut some sheet metal and make an adaptive bracket. Either works just fine.

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I have a really good solution to these issues that costs nothing.

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I like those answers lol. Also was wondering if you are running factory settings on your shop cars HKS as well?
I will try to get some pics up today. I have it on 20 clicks from full soft, so just 4 clicks towards hard from the center.

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Discussion Starter #6
I will try to get some pics up today. I have it on 20 clicks from full soft, so just 4 clicks towards hard from the center.

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Cool, I will probably leave factory for now, surprised you went harder than softer for a street car.
 

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2 zip ties looped into eachother easiest way.

Hose clamp, cable saddle clamp, and p clamp with bolt for a more elaborate way. More info and more examples here:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I just dropped my car off for tires and alignment. Curious of you had any issues with alignment with the 3SX kit. Camber specifically. I feel like the car needs to be lowered to try and get an adjustment towards neutral/negative from where its at, Or I need to buy eccentric camber bolts like factory used? The front seems to have positive camber to me, which lowering may help?
 
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I flipped the sce adjusters to the most negative setting and with the hks stock ride height its -.5 which is perfect for me.

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Discussion Starter #14
I flipped the sce adjusters to the most negative setting and with the hks stock ride height its -.5 which is perfect for me.

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Ah ok. Think mine are installed the same way as in the picture you posted. If not ill have to flip them. Or I see you can buy camber bolts for our cars too. Be interesting to see what the shop says, they wanted to get into corner weighting it too for $100/hr. I just asked if they could check the alignment, im at the factory HKS ride height as well. Our roads must be shit around here because at factory settings its just super rough, I suppose 265/35/18's dont help that either, but im not giving up my Integral SSR wheels that weigh nothing.
 
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Ah ok. Think mine are installed the same way as in the picture you posted. If not ill have to flip them. Or I see you can buy camber bolts for our cars too. Be interesting to see what the shop says, they wanted to get into corner weighting it too for $100/hr. I just asked if they could check the alignment, im at the factory HKS ride height as well. Our roads must be shit around here because at factory settings its just super rough, I suppose 265/35/18's dont help that either, but im not giving up my Integral SSR wheels that weigh nothing.
The picture was prior to flipping them, it was positive camber setup like that. No coilover is going to ride like a stock strut.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Probably about the best you can do without adjustable rear arms.
Well driving home the car seems to pull to the left quite alot. I called and they said this was because its not corner weighted yet. I feel like at times it doesnt pull, almost like its the tires fighting the ridges in the road. Corner weighting is $110 an hour, Im thinking of telling them do it for 2 hours and im done after that? Part of me thinks something else is the problem. I trust the shop. But the fact its pulling so much worries me. Im wondering if theres a way to make a estimated guess at throwing a few turns into the coilovers to get weight off the drivers front to maybe help with the pull. Theres got to be some science behind it if its truely the corner weighting causing the pull.
 
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Did it pull before the alignment? I have not corned weighted and did a string alignment and the car tracks straight.
 
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