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Discussion Starter #1
So the throwout bearing on my 95 VR4 has been tweeting since I first got it and I figure if I'm gonna go through the trouble of digging in there I might as well replace what I assume is the stock clutch with a setup for a little more power down the road. The rest of the car is pretty sorted at the moment so I plan to max out the 9Bs within a year and maybe go to a 15G or similar setup in the next 2. The car will spend most of its time on the street with an occasional run down the strip or autocross so I'd like something with relatively similar feel and engagement zone to stock.

Looking through what's available on Rvenge I've narrowed it down to a Comp Clutch 2 or 3.5 or a Spec 2, 2+ or 3 as they seem to have had a good reputation here through the years. For the small difference in price compared to the increased torque capacity as you go up the stages I'm not sure if I would lose much going to a higher stage. I also know some people like the combination of an aftermarket pressure plate with a stock disk but for what a better PP plus an OEM disk and bearing costs I don't really see the advantage over a whole kit.

Just curious what opinions or experiences anyone has between the 2 options/stages they offer or if there is any other similarly priced option I'm missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
On a somewhat related note, is it overkill to replace the clutch release fork and pivot ball there too? Car still has under 60k miles but I'd prefer to not have to touch this area of the car for a little while
 

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This will always be a subjective topic with suggestions across the entire spectrum. "Relatively similar feel" is going to limit you to stock disc and upgraded PP options e.g. RPS Street. Engagement will always vary with the user; sprung will be more forgiving with engagement.

My usual recommendation for mild cars is SPEC Stage 2+ or even the 4+ for room to grow. It is never a bad idea to replace the fork, but the fulcrum ball might be overkill unless thrashed and somehow corroded (no grease perhaps). I would also consider a CSS with fluid (line optional). A thorough bleeding of the system and correct adjustment will minimize the chance of drag and improper break-in of your investment.

Miles do not mean much, IMO... old is old for many things.

-Alan

//edit// I did not see it mentioned, but what are you planning to do about the FW? Are you going to have yours resurfaced correctly, or are you looking at the CC/SPEC options as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This will always be a subjective topic with suggestions across the entire spectrum. "Relatively similar feel" is going to limit you to stock disc and upgraded PP options e.g. RPS Street. Engagement will always vary with the user; sprung will be more forgiving with engagement.

My usual recommendation for mild cars is SPEC Stage 2+ or even the 4+ for room to grow. It is never a bad idea to replace the fork, but the fulcrum ball might be overkill unless thrashed and somehow corroded (no grease perhaps). I would also consider a CSS with fluid (line optional). A thorough bleeding of the system and correct adjustment will minimize the chance of drag and improper break-in of your investment.

Miles do not mean much, IMO... old is old for many things.

-Alan

//edit// I did not see it mentioned, but what are you planning to do about the FW? Are you going to have yours resurfaced correctly, or are you looking at the CC/SPEC options as well?
Thanks for the reply. Didn't put much thought into that part of the equation but I'd like to keep the stock FW. I'll have to find a local place to resurface it. Does that eliminate some of the options?
 

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Thanks for the reply. Didn't put much thought into that part of the equation but I'd like to keep the stock FW. I'll have to find a local place to resurface it. Does that eliminate some of the options?
Most welcome and no, it does not eliminate any of the aforementioned options - mainly twin disc setups with an accompanying FW already.

You will want to find a competent shop that can perform the proper two-step machining. There are lots of threads on the topic, such as this old one (please do not bump it lol)

How important to resurface the Flywheel <<

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Most welcome and no, it does not eliminate any of the aforementioned options - mainly twin disc setups with an accompanying FW already.

You will want to find a competent shop that can perform the proper two-step machining. There are lots of threads on the topic, such as this old one (please do not bump it lol)

How important to resurface the Flywheel <<

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
Alright, good to know. Got a few things to think over now but it seems I've got a decent idea. One last thing, so a Spec 2+ would definitely have a firmer pedal but not too unbearable and minimal increase in noise? Appreciate all the info.
 

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Yeah, I have driven one or two 3/S with that clutch, and it is absolutely streetable. Your main "learning curve" will be the engagement since it is full-faced and unsprung. Noise can be attributed to other things, including the transaxle itself. Just apply quality grease on the suggested grease points (splines, fulcrum, fork, TOB, CSS push rod, etc.) Thoroughly bleed the CSS and adjust your pedal accordingly, as mentioned.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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