Actually, depends on which bulbs he's referring to.
If you're talking about the screen, then yes, you're SOL. Look for a used one, or one from a totalled car, because the screen is not replaceable. (some people have speculated that it's the inverter, which generates the high voltage to make the screen light up, but no one has ever succeeded to my knowledge in replacing it)
If you're talking abuot the lighting that lights up the words on the buttons, YES< there is one bulb for each side.
I don't know if you can get replacements, but I know for a fact that the CAN be removed. I did this myself, and changed the color last weekend.
They take a quarter turn of a small philips screwdriver, then they come right out. Getting to them is the pain though, you have to remove the panel from the car (whole center console, stereo area, plus a few dash screws, and a lot of careful twisting and turning to slide it out)
Good luck dude... Lemme know if you have more questions, the removal is still fresh in my mind.
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