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Wheee! 2 wheels is fun!
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Brushes/bushings/contacts and other assorted starter and alternator parts can be obtained if you know the right place to look. However with so many rebuilders hanging it up it is harder to find these people who will sell parts.

-SP
 

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JNS Engineering
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Brushes/bushings/contacts and other assorted starter and alternator parts can be obtained if you know the right place to look. However with so many rebuilders hanging it up it is harder to find these people who will sell parts.

-SP
Agree. It's been a few years now but I was able to get new parts and rebuild my alternator.
 

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Amature-Crastinator
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Also agreed, sources dry up. Of the 5 sets I found nationwide 4 were vapor ware and the one real part sold that morning in Oregon. In a 3 county wide area I found one garage with a growler, and it was busted. Should have looked into industrial electrical maybe.:shitsweak:

Not fixed? Time to trace wires, check voltages and shorts to ground.
Best advice i can give is to start at the starter and go backward. Visual check as well, oil soaked kinked pinched burnt rubbed raw.
When you direct jumped the starter did you note the amperage draw? If you dont have a meter you could jumper it at each connection. Oh, and remember your neutral safeties.
 
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especially check the ground to the starter

if that doesn't work you probably need an ignition switch.
 

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-=Redneck=-
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God help me if my Ignition switch goes out. My Viper Alarm is Tied into just about every wire on that damn thing. :) Lucky I don't have this issue yet (Knocks on wood). I will keep in mind though if there are other fixes as well. :)
 

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I ordered one from amazon.com for about $20, and to my surprise it didn't cost much to ship to Canada, and there was no brokerage fees because Amazon charged sales tax ahead of time. Also, I was a little hesitant because I didn't know if my 93 used the same part, but it did.

Replacing the old with new wasn't as difficult as I expected. The plastic cover surrounding the ignition key had to be removed, and the knee cover too. One screw is holding it together with the ignition. Pretty simple actually.

Here's a little bit of history. If my car battery voltage fell below 12.2 volts, it always would refuse to crank. When the car refused to start, if I let up on the clutch, I could tell the clutch safety switch was operating correctly because there would be a change in the dash light intensity and I could hear a relay click too. I knew the problem was somewhere else but didn't know exactly where. My only fix at the time was to put a car charger on briefly to get the battery above 12.2 volts. At least the car was consistent for a few years like this. On some occasions the car refused to start even with good battery voltage level,the trick was to leave the ignition key at ACC2 for a minute or so, and then crank it. Finally I got tired of this because I was stuck at a gas station for 5 minutes trying to get the car to start, this is no fun. I ordered the ignition switch, replaced it and it worked as it should. I waited tell my car battery voltage dropped down to 12.0 volts, and it cranked! This means my old ignition switch was the culprit. I took apart the old ignition switch and found copper contacts corroded black. Too bad it wasn't coated in silver to prevent this problem from occurring.
 

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Registered
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So when this happened to you, did you notice decreased starter performance when your battery voltage was just ABOVE 12.2, almost like your battery was going dead? This is the problem I am having (although I haven't checked the battery voltage). I am considering replacing the ignition switch, but before I do I want to run a fresh 12 guage wire down to my starter just to make sure the wire isn't corroded or anything. My only question is that everybody here seems to have a clicking associated with a start, is the clicking they are referring to behind the stereo or from the solenoid? I usually have one behind the stereo but the car so far hasn't refused to start, it just starts like the battery is going dead. Had battery, alt and starter checked, all good.
 

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The MFI relay is on the passenger side, near the radio, that produces a click sound. The problem that people are describing here is when the engine does not even attempt to turn over, nothing happens. For me, I observed this problem when my battery was not fully charged (12.2 volts or lower). Eventually it got so bad that it didn't care if my battery was fully charged, it refused to crank, that's when I replaced it.
 

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Amature-Crastinator
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I was chasng down an unrelated electrical problem and just thought I should post some info here as a sort of followup. OP, minor correction/omssion I found there to be 4 screws holding the upper/lower steering column garnish together (one of my standoffs for the back screw was broken). And it should be mentioned they are also held together snap-fit style, to release you need to squeeze the lower section at the seam and for ease of removal rotate the upper 1/4 turn CC.


Just going to add my $.02 because I had an issue that no one has described. My '91 had an issue where it would only sometimes start because the ONE single screw that holds the ignition switch in backed out enough to not let the tumbler cage sit inside the switch correctly in order to operate it. As I have never personally been in a car with a click click start issue I say this to let you guys know that this can happen. Never again for me though. Blue thread locker.
While I had my knee pad and steering column garnish off I noticed I had nearly the same issue, the small screw was about 1 turn loose.

BTW I used a 1/4 in. drive and #0 phillips adapter, just be easy.

Here's a little bit of history. If my car battery voltage fell below 12.2 volts, it always would refuse to crank. When the car refused to start, if I let up on the clutch, I could tell the clutch safety switch was operating correctly because there would be a change in the dash light intensity and I could hear a relay click too. I knew the problem was somewhere else but didn't know exactly where. My only fix at the time was to put a car charger on briefly to get the battery above 12.2 volts. At least the car was consistent for a few years like this. On some occasions the car refused to start even with good battery voltage level,the trick was to leave the ignition key at ACC2 for a minute or so, and then crank it. Finally I got tired of this because I was stuck at a gas station for 5 minutes trying to get the car to start, this is no fun. I ordered the ignition switch, replaced it and it worked as it should. I waited tell my car battery voltage dropped down to 12.0 volts, and it cranked! This means my old ignition switch was the culprit. I took apart the old ignition switch and found copper contacts corroded black. Too bad it wasn't coated in silver to prevent this problem from occurring.
With one of the steering column cover standoffs being broken and the switch being loose I was thinking it may have been pulled before so I re-pulled it, just for shits and giggles.

Black tape in three places and a reuseable zip tie holding it to the dash frame.
NOTE: when replacing this be sure to secure all wire strands away from the spring by the steering column.

I took apart the old ignition switch and found copper contacts corroded black. Too bad it wasn't coated in silver to prevent this problem from occurring.
Sounded like a good idea, sooooo.



Carbon contacts on the wire side, two copper discs and some springs on the rotator side.

Not a lot of di-electric grease on the contact side of the plates but there was more on the back.

carbon buildup was mostly on two raised contact slides and at the end there was a burn in gouge/pit.





Hard to tell, my cell phone does not like closeups. lol.

I used a fine and ultra fine hone to take off the carbon layer and resoften the sharp edge that was burnt in.



Here's the broken standoff on the upper cover, I used a hot blade on my soldering iron, slipped it between both parts and then slid the small screw driver in the hole to keep it lined up while it hardend.



After reinstalling everything I checked battery voltage VS. start.
12.5 pass
12.32 pass
12.14 three grunts, fail, wait 10 sec pass
11.95 fail, fail, fail
11.82 fail, fail, fail

So what did I learn from all this?
1. startup is very dependant on battery condition.
2. my battery kinda sucks. It will hold 12.5v for at least a week but just headlights alone can kill it in 15 min.
3. when you do anything keep your eyes open for other things.
 

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Premium Member
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Wow the copper corrosion of your ignition switch is way worse than mine, maybe 20x worse. Mine had a little bit of black corrosion in one spot.

The lowest voltage I've tested with the new ignition switch is 11.9 volts, and it passes.

I would suggest replacing yours.
 

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Amature-Crastinator
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Blackstealth, I think most of the black was just carbon buildup and might have come off with the old "inkpen eraser trick". The worst corrosion/pitting was at the end/bend area of the raised contact.

I might replace it anyway though it still works, I'm just that way I guess. Lol
 

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Yes maybe it could have been repaired, I simply ordered a new unit because it was so cheap. I figured a new unit is cheaper than a towing bill. :)
 

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no speed limits here
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Sorry, OP. A quick hijack for nostalgia's sake.

Lanksy's a simple design to get an easy and keen edge. I bought mine in 1982. Hard to believe that was 30 years ago! (It's practically new because I forgot about it for 20 years).

Thanks again, OP!
 

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Just wanted to say thanks just did the fix to mine.Works great i had the relay installed and after the fix i was able to remove it.All factory now and no messy wires.
 

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Where did you order the ignition switch from? Also where can I get a MFI relay?
 

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Where did you order the ignition switch from? Also where can I get a MFI relay?
I bought the switch from autozone online for about $40.The relay i got from some electronics supply website.I don't remember the site name.But its a basic automotive relay about $5 probably can get it from autozone.
 

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Premium Member
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Where did you order the ignition switch from? Also where can I get a MFI relay?
$20 from amazon.com and they ship to Canada... no brokerage fees. Looks like the price has gone up since.

EDIT: make sure you buy from amazon.com themselves and not the other suppliers available on amazon.

 
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