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Lately I've notice that my clutch is getting really hard to push in and it tends to stick when I let it go. Also when I start it up each morning I hear a screaching noise, but it goes away after a couple of seconds. The screaching is the same sound the starter makes when you try to start your car while its on already. While I was driving today my "Check Engine" light came on (and is still on). When I opened the hood everything looked alright. What could be the problem for the "Check engine" light to come on? Could it be the clutch or starter? Please help me out thanks...
 

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Check the codes comming out of the diagnostic port:

Get an analog multimeter (one with the needle not a digital one) from Pepboys ($10-$20). set it to measure resistance. Put the probes on the top left and bottom right pins in the diagnostic port next to the Fuse box. Turn the Key to ON. The needle will pulse back and forth displaying a code in a combination of long and short pulses. (example: long.. short.. short.. short..repete).

I can tell you what the code means if you post it. Its all in the Service manual. You should purchase one if you don't have one. They are like $60.

Good Luck,
Paul
92RT/TT
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks

Ok I will try that out this weekend... thanks for the help!
 

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my check engine light came on also late this week, but for some reason it magically disappeared:eek: while I was driving yesterday. It's still there though for a few seconds each time I started my car so I know the light wasn't blown...:rolleyes: ...i hope everything'll be alright.:rolleyes: :confused:

Jim
97 3KGT base
 

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Paul said:
Check the codes comming out of the diagnostic port:

Get an analog multimeter (one with the needle not a digital one) from Pepboys ($10-$20). set it to measure resistance. Put the probes on the top left and bottom right pins in the diagnostic port next to the Fuse box. Turn the Key to ON. The needle will pulse back and forth displaying a code in a combination of long and short pulses. (example: long.. short.. short.. short..repete).
Does the analog multimeter work with the ODB-II cars, though? He has a '97, so he has ODB-II. I didn't think that you could pull the codes using this method anymore...
 

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Paul said:
Check the codes comming out of the diagnostic port:

Get an analog multimeter (one with the needle not a digital one) from Pepboys ($10-$20). set it to measure resistance. Put the probes on the top left and bottom right pins in the diagnostic port next to the Fuse box. Turn the Key to ON. The needle will pulse back and forth displaying a code in a combination of long and short pulses. (example: long.. short.. short.. short..repete).

I can tell you what the code means if you post it. Its all in the Service manual. You should purchase one if you don't have one. They are like $60.

Good Luck,
Paul
92RT/TT
You actually set the multimeter to read Voltage don't you? The Diagnostics unit sends pulses of voltage I believe.

http://www.sunflower.org/~fatbiker/electric.htm#How can I read my diagnostic (Andrew Caples FAQ)
 

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damienx511,
OOPS! Sorry I didn't notice that you had a 2nd Gen. I'm not sure if you can check the code this way on your car. I will call with my dad ( he has a 99) and see what his manual sais.

alanjh
no, to read the trouble codes you set it to measure resistance. When you use a datalogger like the TMO you apply a voltage across the resistance, and then measure the voltage change.

Paul
 

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Fairly confident I used my multimeter on volts when I was checking my ECS :) oh well.

(Edit)
Just checked Andrew's FAQ again (as thats what I used), he talks about using a Voltmeter. Therefore I'm sure I used my multimeter set to measure voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for the help guys

thanks for the help, I will test it out.
 
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