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Soooooo, this fucking car. Has been the biggest headache. Long story short finally got a new ecu and the car can drive around town. But it stumbles, doesnt like going over 2k rpms. I belive the speed gauge is actualling inaccurate as well as on my trip today, my GPS said I was at a lower rate of speed then what the car was telling me. Also throws CEL after about a mile or so of driving. Base model 3000gt. New fuel filter, new ecu, green injectors instead of original orange, new cam and crank sensor, new plugs, coils and ptu about 3500-4000 miles.
 

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It legit sounds like a mass air flow issue. My clip broke off so it pops out every now and then. Recently zip tied it on. I’m sure you know you can check if it’s at least trying to function by just unplugging it and see if there’s a difference.
 

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...... green injectors instead of original orange.......
Just so you know the green injectors are correct for your ’94 n/a engine. Orange ones are for 1g n/a engines. They’re same 210 cc volume but green ones just has longer tip than orange ones, I'm not sure but suspect little different lower manifold between 1g and 2g or lower injector to manifold seals.
 

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Soooooo, this fucking car. Has been the biggest headache. Long story short finally got a new ecu and the car can drive around town. But it stumbles, doesnt like going over 2k rpms. I belive the speed gauge is actualling inaccurate as well as on my trip today, my GPS said I was at a lower rate of speed then what the car was telling me. Also throws CEL after about a mile or so of driving. Base model 3000gt. New fuel filter, new ecu, green injectors instead of original orange, new cam and crank sensor, new plugs, coils and ptu about 3500-4000 miles.
What is the CEL for?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Car dies after I unplug maf and cel is for cam and crank sensor already replaced and new ecu too
 

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FIrst off, I'm pretty sure GREEN injectors are for TT's (you may be adding too much fuel.
Secondly, if the CEL is telling you something is amiss with the CAM AND CRANK sensors, have you made sure that they are properly installed (I believe I read about you replaced them)?

Bob.
 

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Yes I have replaced both. And in fact I've replaced the crank about 5 times due to improper installation and other mess ups, so I know they are good now as I've replaced enough to do it blind folded. And I was thinking green was tt
 

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I believe the CEL for the crank and cam are "stored", which means they don't clear themselves.
If you haven't cleared them, they will probably show up every time you check.
Since I don't know your model year, I'm not sure what you can use to clear the CEL...

Don't quote me on this, but I believe the TT injectors are 310cc and your old orange ones are like 240-260cc. Not sure if that additional 50cc (without some sort of compensation) will cause major issue that you describe.

Hopefully someone more knowledgable that myself will give this thread a looksee....

Bob.
 

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It's a 94 base model. Has a hybrid obd2 but I've been using my friends snap on scanner. We cleared the codes but they came back.
 

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It's a 94 base model. Has a hybrid obd2 but I've been using my friends snap on scanner. We cleared the codes but they came back.
If the codes come back and you know the sensors are good, probably time to start checking the wiring/harness. When my harness for the cam angle sensor got chewed through by a mouse, the car wouldnt even start. On a completely different occasion the plug wiggled off slightly and the car would randomly hit a wall in the middle of the rpm range and buck like it was getting fuel cut. Not sure if this is similar to your symptoms. Maybe you just have a partially exposed wire?

As for the injectors, stock TT are 360cc and NA are 210cc. I don't really know that colors for each, but if you are using stock TT injectors with an NA ECU and no fuel correction, you are dumping WAY too much fuel. No way the car will run right like that. That should be the first thing to verify. However i am not sure this would cause those CEL codes.
 

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As for the injectors, stock TT are 360cc and NA are 210cc. I don't really know that colors for each, but if you are using stock TT injectors with an NA ECU and no fuel correction, you are dumping WAY too much fuel. No way the car will run right like that. That should be the first thing to verify.
Thank YOU for that clarification!
You would think after being part of the group (and owning 3 of them) for almost 20 years, you would think I might know that....

Appreciate the input...

Bob. :)
 

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Hrmm, now that I think about it my TT injectors are brownish/orangish....

Bob.
 

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......But it stumbles, doesnt like going over 2k rpms.....
Can’t you explain stumbling a little better?
Does it feel like a positive electrical miss or more of a soft fading like fuel starvation?
Does it idle smooth and steady at ~ 800 rpm?
Accelerate smooth below 2k you mentioned?

Any chance that engine has an after market fuel pressure gauge?

Have you tried checking ignition timing with timing light, both at idle and up to 3k rpms?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
the car would randomly hit a wall in the middle of the rpm range and buck like it was getting fuel cut.
[/QUOTE]
Like this but the if I keep in throttle the rpms will go up but the exhaust changes pitch, as well as the car bucking like a pissed off bull. The wiring harness in this car is in a bad way and I've been using caps and junkyard wiring harnesses to patch it as good as I can. The crank sensor is one such wire if anyone would like I can do a walk around the car and take some pictures and possible video of the engine bay
 

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......The wiring harness in this car is in a bad way and I've been using caps and junkyard wiring harnesses to patch it as good as I can. The crank sensor is one such wire.....
I recall you mentioning that previously but didn’t know it involved things like crank sensor wire.

I’d do what I questioned about checking ignition timing with timing light, both at idle and up to 3k rpms. You should see ~ 15 degrees advance at idle and as rpm’s are increased a smooth counter clock wise movement of balancer mark with rpm’s up to about 30 degrees. If that mark movement starts to jump all over place or timing light flashes erratically, you’d know problem is electrical and possibly a wiring problem. If it’s smooth with only small variations when engine starts to stumble, then more than likely it’s a fuel delivery issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the info. I'll borrow a timing light and see what's going on in the next few day.
 

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Soooooo, this fucking car. Has been the biggest headache. Long story short finally got a new ecu and the car can drive around town. But it stumbles, doesnt like going over 2k rpms. I belive the speed gauge is actualling inaccurate as well as on my trip today, my GPS said I was at a lower rate of speed then what the car was telling me. Also throws CEL after about a mile or so of driving. Base model 3000gt. New fuel filter, new ecu, green injectors instead of original orange, new cam and crank sensor, new plugs, coils and ptu about 3500-4000 miles.

Hey , do you have ECS suspension , had similar problem was a bad ecs unit , behind passenger rear wheel , disconnect it ...
 
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