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Discussion Starter #41
Also I found a vac leak from the FPR to the intake with a T running to the BOV while pulling everything and fix that. I checked all the IC piping for leaks and everything seems good.
 

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I can recall if you already checked IAC, but if the engine runs smooth when you apply light throttle and hold to 1800 rpm but does not idle on its own, thats what i would be suspicious of.

Also, be careful with the gas in the oil. I know you aren't driving (so not putting under load), but if there is that much gas in the oil it is definitely going to thin.

If it has the issue both on a cold start and on a hot start when fully warmed up it shouldnt be related to O2 sensors (not closed loop on cold start).
 

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Also I found a vac leak from the FPR to the intake with a T running to the BOV while pulling everything and fix that. I checked all the IC piping for leaks and everything seems good.
Vacc leak will also cause idle surge... any change after fixing that? Have you done a full pressure test?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I did change the IAC the one that was on it actually looked brand new but just out of curiosity I changed it with a know good one from a motor I pulled out a few weeks ago. I might put the other one back on because like I said it did look brand new. As for the oil I plan to change it at some point this weekend I know it's not good to run that through the motor. I have absolutely no vaccum leaks that I can find without pressurizing the system, and no change what so ever when I fixed the one it had. I did a compression test on the front head but not the rear because I didn't feel like pulling the intake at the time but I also plan to do that this weekend. Also another thing I'm not really sure if it matters or what it means but when I pulled the valve covers off last night I noticed that the front head was darker in color than the rear. I dont know the history of the car so idk if some head work has been done. Also I should mention that if I nail the gas it doesn't exactly respond that great and feels pretty sluggish. But once the rpms are up they stay up.
 

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knowing how to do a proper pressure test is a must know for diagnosing issues i would almost gaurantee that you have air leaks the reason for the gassy oil is its running lean and the ecu is dumping fuel into the engine trying to compensate for the lean condition
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I just installed it, so when I first start it and it runs fine for a few seconds its reads at about 15.2 then when the idle drops low it goes to 18+ then when the idle picks back up it goes back to 15ish then after running a few seconds later the gauge hits 18+ then flat lines, and doesn't read anymore. When i turn the car off with the ignition on i can read the gauge go from 18 and slowly drop down to 14.8 which i can only assume means that the fuel is drying up in the exhaust as it sits there.
 

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I just installed it, so when I first start it and it runs fine for a few seconds its reads at about 15.2 then when the idle drops low it goes to 18+ then when the idle picks back up it goes back to 15ish then after running a few seconds later the gauge hits 18+ then flat lines, and doesn't read anymore. When i turn the car off with the ignition on i can read the gauge go from 18 and slowly drop down to 14.8 which i can only assume means that the fuel is drying up in the exhaust as it sits there.
14.7 is stoich, over 14.7 is lean. If you are saying that it goes to 18+ when the idle drops, you are either letting in a bunch of air (too lean so idle drops), or losing fuel. Generally letting in air from a vacuum leak will make the idle increase so you would have to be letting in quite a bit of air to make the idle drop from a vacuum leak. When the car is warmed up, the NB02 sensors should be working to keep it at 14.7 (should see cycling around 14.2-15 range). When cold, there is no closed loop so this is not the case. Overall, the symptoms are pointing to a vacuum leak. You 100% need to do a real pressure test. Inspecting for leaks is not sufficient.

knowing how to do a proper pressure test is a must know for diagnosing issues i would almost gaurantee that you have air leaks the reason for the gassy oil is its running lean and the ecu is dumping fuel into the engine trying to compensate for the lean condition
Somewhat true, but you would have to be insanely rich for this. Im talking <10 AFR consitently. Also, this is not true when the engine is cold because there is no closed loop.
 

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Once I start it itll run really good for about 5 seconds and then start to cut out. I was watching the rpms on the scanmaster because it's either to pin point the number of rpms. When it does it, itll drop down to almost 500 rpms then jump up to around 1700 then back down to 800 then it just repeats after about a second, and just repeats. I held the throttle down to 1800 rpms and she purs. No cut outs no sputtering, it runs perfectly fine.
First thing I would do is check the throttle SAS screw adjustment, and check/adjust the TPS and idle switch. I'd also check the coolant temp sensor. (a simple and quick check is to compare it to the air temp sensor reading before you start it cold. They should be within a few degrees of each other) It's quite possible the idle switch and Idle speed adjustments are so jacked up the ECU has no idea where to put the IAC.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Well I re ran all the vaccum lines. I found a short in the IAC plug and it was to close to the plug to fix it so I swapped the plug from an extra harness I have laying around. Also i changed the FPR with the original one. Put everything back together and it fired right up. Idk what was up with that FPR because it was fine when I pulled it from another care but that's beside the point. It idles around 1k now. It actually idles pretty good I know that's kind of high but it's a good start in the right direction. It's still running lean though according to my gauge. Idk how well I trust that gauge at this point though it came with the care not hooked up it was just sitting in the pod holder. Anyways when I turn the key on it starts at 14.5 then moves around in any direction as long as the key is on most of the time it goes toward rich. Which is why idk if I trust it. I'm also getting a hissing sound from behind the intake now after all of the work I just did which probably explain the highish idle.
 

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Spray everything down with soapwater and pressurize the intake system for leaks I'm sure your getting unmetered air which is throwing of the fuel trims. I'd rather be rich then lean.
 

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Well I re ran all the vaccum lines. I found a short in the IAC plug and it was to close to the plug to fix it so I swapped the plug from an extra harness I have laying around. Also i changed the FPR with the original one. Put everything back together and it fired right up. Idk what was up with that FPR because it was fine when I pulled it from another care but that's beside the point. It idles around 1k now. It actually idles pretty good I know that's kind of high but it's a good start in the right direction. It's still running lean though according to my gauge. Idk how well I trust that gauge at this point though it came with the care not hooked up it was just sitting in the pod holder. Anyways when I turn the key on it starts at 14.5 then moves around in any direction as long as the key is on most of the time it goes toward rich. Which is why idk if I trust it. I'm also getting a hissing sound from behind the intake now after all of the work I just did which probably explain the highish idle.
Note that the wideband O2 sensor will need to warm up a bit just like any O2 sensor. It might show rich on a cold start. Now that the engine runs at least decently, warm the car up and see what the AFR is at warm idle. I believe you mentioned you have datalogging also, correct? At warm idle (car must be warmed up), check your stock O2 sensor voltages. You should see them cycling between 0-1V, and your wideband would be close to 14.7 AFR (basically varying from around 14.2 to 15). Even if you have a small vacuum leak, they should work to get the AFR on target.

EDIT: And yes, definitely pressure test. Start with the Y-pipe to TB connection blocked to easily find leaks in the piping. Then pressurize full system.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I plan to pressurize the system I just have to get it on the road to drive 5 minutes to get to an air compressor. I pulled the TB because I suspected that it was causing the hissing sound ( I was right I had the gasket on wrong). After that I started it back up and it did pretty good. It doesn't automatically get lean. On a cold start, it runs half decent. The wideband stayed between 14 and 15 until it got warm it was a little jumpy. What really through me for a loop was the o2 reading this morning it was hovering around 50 and slowly moved down and eventually stayed at 0.0 0.2 or 0.02 I cant think of how it reads but normal. So anyways after it got warm its started going lean quick it was like the flip of a switch. Then the gauge went blank and I was back at square one. I did an egr delete and surprisingly I made a huge difference but I was still going lean. But what got really interesting was that as soon as it started going lean I started hearing a fast clicking sound from the engine bay.... I traced it down to the front head I'm not sure what I was hearing but I pulled the spark plug wire out and it was the same fast clicking sound I was hearing. I pulled out all the wires one by one and they are all getting plenty of spark and I was new spark plugs so I'm not sure what exactly I was hearing.
 

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I plan to pressurize the system I just have to get it on the road to drive 5 minutes to get to an air compressor. I pulled the TB because I suspected that it was causing the hissing sound ( I was right I had the gasket on wrong). After that I started it back up and it did pretty good. It doesn't automatically get lean. On a cold start, it runs half decent. The wideband stayed between 14 and 15 until it got warm it was a little jumpy. What really through me for a loop was the o2 reading this morning it was hovering around 50 and slowly moved down and eventually stayed at 0.0 0.2 or 0.02 I cant think of how it reads but normal. So anyways after it got warm its started going lean quick it was like the flip of a switch. Then the gauge went blank and I was back at square one. I did an egr delete and surprisingly I made a huge difference but I was still going lean. But what got really interesting was that as soon as it started going lean I started hearing a fast clicking sound from the engine bay.... I traced it down to the front head I'm not sure what I was hearing but I pulled the spark plug wire out and it was the same fast clicking sound I was hearing. I pulled out all the wires one by one and they are all getting plenty of spark and I was new spark plugs so I'm not sure what exactly I was hearing.
Misfire sends a bunch of unburned mixture out the exhaust. The O2 sensor only sees the oxygen, and will misinterpret a lean condition. If you've got spark jumping around in the spark plug tubes, it's probably bad wires... If you look closely you may be able to see the carbon tracks where the spark is leaking through.
 

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.......But what got really interesting was that as soon as it started going lean I started hearing a fast clicking sound from the engine bay.... I traced it down to the front head I'm not sure what I was hearing .......
Sometimes small exhaust leak at head to manifold will sound like ticking or clicking sound. Possible picked up small leak right at that time :unsure:.
 

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You said that the car came with a SAFC. I typically see these when someone has done a turbo swap and put in larger capacity injectors. The SAFC is to "trick" your MAF to think there is more/less air coming into the intake manifold so that the larger injectors can correctly compensate.

Double check that you have the stock size injectors, as you've mentioned that the turbos are not stock. If you have larger ones, either replace them with the stock ones, or install the SAFC.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
From what I have gathered, the turbos are 1mm bigger than stock so they arent really that much different. The injectors are stock I just cleaned them. I have been thinking about installing the SAFC but I see no benefit with stock injectors and fuel pump.

Now to catch you guys up. As I said above I cleaned the injectors and they are spraying pretty good now. I changed all the plug wires, already changed the plugs, changed the PTU and put everything back together. Idk if I should just never touch this car again or what but when I went to start the car it absolutely would not crank. So I got out double checked all my plugs and sensors everything is fine, all connected nothing out of place and nothing unplugged. I had the battery charging while I was doing all this because it died over a few days of not running it. So I got back in the car and turned it over and refused to take not starting for an answer to my problems. After turning it over for about a minute or two finally it starts. I'm watching the wideband and its staying between 14 and 15 then it goes further both ways and eventually just stops reading. It's not running the greatest but I'm finally not hearing a misfire but I cant even explain how its acting. So im going through the scanmaster checking all the parameters to make sure everything is still the same as it was before. I hit cel and now all of a sudden out of nowhere I'm getting CEL 23. Not sure what it is I've read its TDC sensor or cam position sensor. I have no idea how it just decided it wanted to through this code all of a sudden but this is where I'm at, at the moment. Like I said I dont think I need to touch this car anymore I'm about to cut my losses idk what else to do. There's no way that sensor went out as I was doing a tune up.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Also it's still burning rich/lean whichever one idk what to believe at this point I'm really at a loss.
 
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