Also I found a vac leak from the FPR to the intake with a T running to the BOV while pulling everything and fix that. I checked all the IC piping for leaks and everything seems good.
Vacc leak will also cause idle surge... any change after fixing that? Have you done a full pressure test?Also I found a vac leak from the FPR to the intake with a T running to the BOV while pulling everything and fix that. I checked all the IC piping for leaks and everything seems good.
14.7 is stoich, over 14.7 is lean. If you are saying that it goes to 18+ when the idle drops, you are either letting in a bunch of air (too lean so idle drops), or losing fuel. Generally letting in air from a vacuum leak will make the idle increase so you would have to be letting in quite a bit of air to make the idle drop from a vacuum leak. When the car is warmed up, the NB02 sensors should be working to keep it at 14.7 (should see cycling around 14.2-15 range). When cold, there is no closed loop so this is not the case. Overall, the symptoms are pointing to a vacuum leak. You 100% need to do a real pressure test. Inspecting for leaks is not sufficient.I just installed it, so when I first start it and it runs fine for a few seconds its reads at about 15.2 then when the idle drops low it goes to 18+ then when the idle picks back up it goes back to 15ish then after running a few seconds later the gauge hits 18+ then flat lines, and doesn't read anymore. When i turn the car off with the ignition on i can read the gauge go from 18 and slowly drop down to 14.8 which i can only assume means that the fuel is drying up in the exhaust as it sits there.
Somewhat true, but you would have to be insanely rich for this. Im talking <10 AFR consitently. Also, this is not true when the engine is cold because there is no closed loop.knowing how to do a proper pressure test is a must know for diagnosing issues i would almost gaurantee that you have air leaks the reason for the gassy oil is its running lean and the ecu is dumping fuel into the engine trying to compensate for the lean condition
First thing I would do is check the throttle SAS screw adjustment, and check/adjust the TPS and idle switch. I'd also check the coolant temp sensor. (a simple and quick check is to compare it to the air temp sensor reading before you start it cold. They should be within a few degrees of each other) It's quite possible the idle switch and Idle speed adjustments are so jacked up the ECU has no idea where to put the IAC.Once I start it itll run really good for about 5 seconds and then start to cut out. I was watching the rpms on the scanmaster because it's either to pin point the number of rpms. When it does it, itll drop down to almost 500 rpms then jump up to around 1700 then back down to 800 then it just repeats after about a second, and just repeats. I held the throttle down to 1800 rpms and she purs. No cut outs no sputtering, it runs perfectly fine.
Note that the wideband O2 sensor will need to warm up a bit just like any O2 sensor. It might show rich on a cold start. Now that the engine runs at least decently, warm the car up and see what the AFR is at warm idle. I believe you mentioned you have datalogging also, correct? At warm idle (car must be warmed up), check your stock O2 sensor voltages. You should see them cycling between 0-1V, and your wideband would be close to 14.7 AFR (basically varying from around 14.2 to 15). Even if you have a small vacuum leak, they should work to get the AFR on target.Well I re ran all the vaccum lines. I found a short in the IAC plug and it was to close to the plug to fix it so I swapped the plug from an extra harness I have laying around. Also i changed the FPR with the original one. Put everything back together and it fired right up. Idk what was up with that FPR because it was fine when I pulled it from another care but that's beside the point. It idles around 1k now. It actually idles pretty good I know that's kind of high but it's a good start in the right direction. It's still running lean though according to my gauge. Idk how well I trust that gauge at this point though it came with the care not hooked up it was just sitting in the pod holder. Anyways when I turn the key on it starts at 14.5 then moves around in any direction as long as the key is on most of the time it goes toward rich. Which is why idk if I trust it. I'm also getting a hissing sound from behind the intake now after all of the work I just did which probably explain the highish idle.
Misfire sends a bunch of unburned mixture out the exhaust. The O2 sensor only sees the oxygen, and will misinterpret a lean condition. If you've got spark jumping around in the spark plug tubes, it's probably bad wires... If you look closely you may be able to see the carbon tracks where the spark is leaking through.I plan to pressurize the system I just have to get it on the road to drive 5 minutes to get to an air compressor. I pulled the TB because I suspected that it was causing the hissing sound ( I was right I had the gasket on wrong). After that I started it back up and it did pretty good. It doesn't automatically get lean. On a cold start, it runs half decent. The wideband stayed between 14 and 15 until it got warm it was a little jumpy. What really through me for a loop was the o2 reading this morning it was hovering around 50 and slowly moved down and eventually stayed at 0.0 0.2 or 0.02 I cant think of how it reads but normal. So anyways after it got warm its started going lean quick it was like the flip of a switch. Then the gauge went blank and I was back at square one. I did an egr delete and surprisingly I made a huge difference but I was still going lean. But what got really interesting was that as soon as it started going lean I started hearing a fast clicking sound from the engine bay.... I traced it down to the front head I'm not sure what I was hearing but I pulled the spark plug wire out and it was the same fast clicking sound I was hearing. I pulled out all the wires one by one and they are all getting plenty of spark and I was new spark plugs so I'm not sure what exactly I was hearing.
Sometimes small exhaust leak at head to manifold will sound like ticking or clicking sound. Possible picked up small leak right at that time ........But what got really interesting was that as soon as it started going lean I started hearing a fast clicking sound from the engine bay.... I traced it down to the front head I'm not sure what I was hearing .......