I hate to have to ask this, but are you ABSOLUTELY sure your making good contact thru these connections and that you have a GOOD set of jumper cables?
Car wont crank (my first dodge stealth)
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Can't quite understand this because of placement of question mark. Are you asking if this is a motor mount? If so I'm not sure because of picture angle I can't make out what I know a motor mount to look like. Normally torque specs are listed in service manual but don't recall size and pitch listed.
Edit: Oh Wait .... I think I can make out top of the transmission mount near the strut tower just below the the white circles. So they do appear to be motor mount bolts or for the transaxle mount bracket
….. Hell I can’t make out which from the picture.
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yea i coudnt seem to find what bolts they were in the manual. This mount was very easily visible from the front of that car and i guess i didnt notice it. That wire harness near the front of the car for that AC fan has those 3 wires sticking out about an inch.. So i assuming i have to open up that harness and get some room? Or do you think i could make that splice without having to get in the harness?
Man you jump from one spot to another without ever making any corrections to the last subject you were on, it’s hard for me to even concentrate on one subject that you don’t bother to even give answers too. Example (only one) where did the two unseen wires terminate from the oval connector near wiper motor in one of the jumps. Now you’re back to the wires sticking out near the left front light (I think) that you completely ignored back then and as far as I know you never located wires/connector from A/C relay box that they need to attach to.
So to this question I’d say go back where that conversation started re-read and follow until you find something to answer the questions needed to correct.
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Haven't got to removing the battery tray for a better look at em. It was a long day, went to start the car and it had no crank so I had to get it in the garage before it snowed, upon getting that done I quickly removed the starter and looked looked towards the spot you specified and noticed that harness with the wires sticking out as well as the motor mount bracket. It was very cold so I wanted to get inside.
Yes I found the box, underneath the box was a harness and on that harness was the 3 wires that were chewed just sticking out of it an inch. I think you mentioned that those wires led to this box but from what I'm seeing they lead to a bundle of wires which then feed into the box. (could be what you meant)
First I'll say I'm a slow two finger typer, which causes me to consume a lot of time with even a simple paragraph and causes many errors because my brain refuses to move that slow. For that reason I don't like to go back and repeat things over later.
Back when talking about chewed up wires from that relay box to A/C fan, I explained they would lead to an area with a connector A-37 (IIRC) and explained that connector might be in the area of the refrigerant drier, I even explained what that looked like. I also included section of print with wire connection from that connector highlighted, also highlighted at bottom of that print was connect shape/pin configuration, but no I didn't say the wires would leave the relay box in bundle of other wires I was concentrating on where they might emerge from wire bundle and have a connector which I assumed you might understand that would be some where between chewed wires and the A/C relay box. All that took time but seems as though you took little notice of all that info. But it's back there and you can find it if you go back and look. Admittedly it maybe mixed in with other conversation because of subject changing without clear understanding of what was first discussed. If you're not clear on any point, I don't mind trying to clear that up (at that time), but hate going back later and needing to start a lengthy explanation all over again. Also if you look at electrical print PDF in Configuration Diagrams section you can find general location of that A-37 connector, which doesn't require a lot of electrical knowledge.
After looking at this statement closer, are you saying there’s wires chewed under the relay box in addition to the ones you showed in the picture?
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I definitely understand what you mean about taking time to get that info for me and portraying it in a useful way and I'm really grateful. There's been a lot of it and I apologize if some of it went over my head.
In regards to the connector, I didn't easily spot it and was sidetracked by the physical wires coming from the harness I noticed at the time. I'm going to go get some solder stuff and go out there and give a good look over and go over everything you've explained thus far. Again I apologize.
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My internet is finally back! It's been very cold lately but I did manage to go out there and get some work done. Reinstalled the starter, it cranks now. I found the harness leading to the two clips you were mentioning. The harness leads to the clips right below the ac relay box. The AC fan wires are the only ones sticking out of that harness in that area. The battery holder is giving me a lot of trouble, it feels like one of the bolts or nuts are just spinning and not coming out so Im gonna have to figure that out.
Also for some reason the cooling fan kicks off intermittently. Sometimes it will stay on with car running (heat or not) and sometimes it won't run at all. I didn't readily notice any chewed wires in the general area of cooling fan
Also for some reason the cooling fan kicks off intermittently. Sometimes it will stay on with car running (heat or not) and sometimes it won't run at all. I didn't readily notice any chewed wires in the general area of cooling fan
No just the 3 wires leading to ac fan clips.
Yea positive, the volt gauge shows about 12 or 13 volts, if it doesn't I just mess with the connections.
Don’t think we’ve come to complete understanding yet concerning three wire ends shown in first picture of your #85 post. The still attached ends should lead to the 2 connectors of the second picture, which are the 2 connectors for A/C fan. The unattached ends must have three other unattached ends that they were connected to at one time; you need to find the other three unattached ends (not shown) as those two sets of loose ends need to be reattached together. The hidden ends may be tight to a bundle and not sticking out like the ones shown in picture, the shown loose end seems to have been under top lip of headlight support bulk head before pulled up on top of it. I’d expect to see the other three matching loose ends sort of below the same lip somewhere behind headlight, maybe in area of refrigerant drier (item with red cap on line and red harness connector attached to top).
Also the same wire (can’t make out color) from first picture that has a short missing section of (right) connector of second picture needs to be reconnected to pin inside that connector, or completely replaced from the connector pin to the unseen loose end discussed above of same colored wire. Also looking at (second picture) wires from left connector the broken and exposed wire should also be replaced.
If working correctly the cooling fan shouldn't come on when car is first started cold. It should only start after engine has run long enough to reach ~ 185 degrees, so it’s not working right either, which might have been original problem with engine overheating. Best I can say is you’ll need to address one issue at a time until both are corrected.
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Right, i got lucky as the unattached ends not shown in pics are sticking out of the bundle of wires about an inch or two right below where the wires are in the picture. Exactly where you're describing. I may have left that out before.
Yea I noticed that too, I can't imagine it be very difficult to fix. I went to home depot and bought a bit of wire that is similar in gauge but the strands themselves are really thick and hard to work and move. I am gonna check other places for some wire
Yeah, that's where gauge of wire comes in, so you'd want a smaller gauge of wire. In case you don't already know a higher gauge number is a smaller wire (opposite of what you might think), sort of like gauges of a shotgun shell if your familiar with those. Also single strand wire is stiff verses multi-stand, you'd want wire like from auto parts stores.
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Automotive wire also has a higher strand count than house wire.
In other words for the same gauge of wire, the house wire will have fewer, thicker strands than the same size automotive wire. The higher strand count is more flexible and resists the constant vibration better than the stiffer low strand house wire.
Home Depot is not the place to get your auto wire. House wire will probably lead to problems down the road.
Get it from a car parts store, even Autozone wire would work better for you.
Once at the store you might find they carry "hook-up wire" and "motor wire"
Motor wire is even more flexible (higher strand count) than hook-up, and usually has better oil and gas resistance.
You could probably use either but if they have it motor wire is worth paying a bit extra for.
Needless to say, stay away from speaker wire. Speaker wire is for, well, speakers....
In other words for the same gauge of wire, the house wire will have fewer, thicker strands than the same size automotive wire. The higher strand count is more flexible and resists the constant vibration better than the stiffer low strand house wire.
Home Depot is not the place to get your auto wire. House wire will probably lead to problems down the road.
Get it from a car parts store, even Autozone wire would work better for you.
Once at the store you might find they carry "hook-up wire" and "motor wire"
Motor wire is even more flexible (higher strand count) than hook-up, and usually has better oil and gas resistance.
You could probably use either but if they have it motor wire is worth paying a bit extra for.
Needless to say, stay away from speaker wire. Speaker wire is for, well, speakers....
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The DYNAMIC DUO, Ham and Eggs, Two peas in a pod....my boys, they make me so proud....
Bob.
Bob.
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LOL.. Probably more Stan and Ollie than Watson and Crick ...
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I gotta be honest, I had to look up that "Watson and Crick" reference....you guys ARE good!
Bob.
Bob.
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havent been out to mess with it, my daily is broke down and im on the verge of just selling it...
Question, i have a kinda old battery that is reading 12.5 v and 10.2 v when cranking the stealth, but for some reason is just barely turns the starter and wont crank it over, it acts dead. Is there something wrong internally with the car causing more restriction? Or do i just have a bad battery? The CCAof my battery is over the CCA of the battery i took out from the stealth.
Question, i have a kinda old battery that is reading 12.5 v and 10.2 v when cranking the stealth, but for some reason is just barely turns the starter and wont crank it over, it acts dead. Is there something wrong internally with the car causing more restriction? Or do i just have a bad battery? The CCAof my battery is over the CCA of the battery i took out from the stealth.
That’s typical sign of old bad battery; I automatically just replace them at first sign of that situation. Only exception is when I’m not sure they have been charged long enough to get to full charge. But 10.2volts when cranking will cause it to barely turn, when I see anything below 11volts cranking I start looking for the problem either charge, battery condition or clean connections.
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Hello! I've had a bit of time to work on this stinky car. That unknown black wire we were trying to find goes to windshield washer motor so not needed. I managed to get the AC fan rewired up (safely) and it also spins with the cooling fan when I first turn key so that's a plus (I think). I haven't done anything with relays yet, such as unplugging (relay for the sport mode).
Also turns out the gas gauge works, it was just empty 🥴
Bad news though, check engine light is ON. Makes sense though because its definitely misfiring. I managed to use my trusty multimeter (cant thank you guys enough for telling me to get one) and it has CODE 41 which is
-harness and connector
-injector coil resistance
I'm seeing that it can be either a bad injector, bad wiring for injector, bad ECU or something to do what an "ISC". I would like to start with checking the ECU and checking the injectors resistance with my multimeter but can't seem to a how to to check resistance of those on here. Then test ISC, which I do see a how to for that.
I'll report back after inspection of ECU.
I feel like I made progress only to be smacked in the face by what seems to be one of the worst CEL codes you can get!
Also turns out the gas gauge works, it was just empty 🥴
Bad news though, check engine light is ON. Makes sense though because its definitely misfiring. I managed to use my trusty multimeter (cant thank you guys enough for telling me to get one) and it has CODE 41 which is
-harness and connector
-injector coil resistance
I'm seeing that it can be either a bad injector, bad wiring for injector, bad ECU or something to do what an "ISC". I would like to start with checking the ECU and checking the injectors resistance with my multimeter but can't seem to a how to to check resistance of those on here. Then test ISC, which I do see a how to for that.
I'll report back after inspection of ECU.
I feel like I made progress only to be smacked in the face by what seems to be one of the worst CEL codes you can get!
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