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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I just recently bought a 1996 3000gt VR4 which came with a clutch master cylinder issue(atleast that’s what I was told). The pedal was completely dead. I replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder as well as the line from the 3sx kit and bled it pretty well.

I thought that would fix the issue but when I started the car it, it wouldn’t go into gear. The pedal felt 3/4 of the way dead and that last 1/4 of travel is pretty stiff.

I did some research and found that it could be the clutch booster causing it to not get enough pressure to move the clutch fork. The brackets dont seem too bent but there’s a slight change to how they should be. When pressing the pedal the metal tip goes out all the way but retracts halfway I’m not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to be which I doubt it is. When off, the car does seem to push the fork a bit so I’m confused on what the issue would be.

Would anyone have any idea if the clutch booster would be the issue or if it’s something internally within the clutch causing this?
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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Hi I just recently bought a 1996 3000gt VR4 which came with a clutch master cylinder issue(atleast that’s what I was told). The pedal was completely dead. I replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder as well as the line from the 3sx kit and bled it pretty well.

I thought that would fix the issue but when I started the car it, it wouldn’t go into gear. The pedal felt 3/4 of the way dead and that last 1/4 of travel is pretty stiff.

I did some research and found that it could be the clutch booster causing it to not get enough pressure to move the clutch fork. The brackets dont seem too bent but there’s a slight change to how they should be. When pressing the pedal the metal tip goes out all the way but retracts halfway I’m not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to be which I doubt it is. When off, the car does seem to push the fork a bit so I’m confused on what the issue would be.

Would anyone have any idea if the clutch booster would be the issue or if it’s something internally within the clutch causing this?
There's a procedure in the FSM for adjusting the booster push rod. There's also a procedure for ensuring the clutch pedal is properly adjusted.

Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
 
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Sounds like you still have air trapped with in the master cylinder and line going to slave what it sounds like to me ...... If you bled it well .... do not let your master cylinder run dry .... right now I would bled the slave again without pushing in the clutch if you have someone around you that can lend you a hand try pumping the clutch and holding it on the floor open the bled valve slowly on the slave and visually see if any air is coming out (NOTE slowly).... while doing this do not let the level of the clutch master cylinder run dry..... if your by yourself ..... I would slowly push the clutch in and back out as slowly as I could trying to get the air to come out of the top res for clutch master cylinder ..... but this will takes hours or even days lol of pumping the clutch
 

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Before releasing the clutch while you have someone with you helping close bled screw before letting off of the clutch and repeat till your able to fully feel pressure plate through out the clutch peddle reservoir is small keep it 3/4s full
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There's a procedure in the FSM for adjusting the booster push rod. There's also a procedure for ensuring the clutch pedal is properly adjusted.

Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
I tried the adjustment on the booster push rod and got it to the closest I could for it to disengage the clutch. It worked and allowed me to shift into gear when the car is on but there’s still about 1/2 ways of a dead pedal. And how would you adjust the pedal? I couldn’t find anything on it
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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I tried the adjustment on the booster push rod and got it to the closest I could for it to disengage the clutch. It worked and allowed me to shift into gear when the car is on but there’s still about 1/2 ways of a dead pedal. And how would you adjust the pedal? I couldn’t find anything on it
The booster push rod adjustment requires the booster/pedal to be out of the car, measurements taken with a measuring caliper, and then reinstalled. The pedal adjustment has instructions both in the FSM and on stealth316.

Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds like you still have air trapped with in the master cylinder and line going to slave what it sounds like to me ...... If you bled it well .... do not let your master cylinder run dry .... right now I would bled the slave again without pushing in the clutch if you have someone around you that can lend you a hand try pumping the clutch and holding it on the floor open the bled valve slowly on the slave and visually see if any air is coming out (NOTE slowly).... while doing this do not let the level of the clutch master cylinder run dry..... if your by yourself ..... I would slowly push the clutch in and back out as slowly as I could trying to get the air to come out of the top res for clutch master cylinder ..... but this will takes hours or even days lol of pumping the clutch
I’ll try bleeding it again and see if that helps thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The booster push rod adjustment requires the booster/pedal to be out of the car, measurements taken with a measuring caliper, and then reinstalled. The pedal adjustment has instructions both in the FSM and on stealth316.

Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk
It wouldn’t be that the clutch booster assembly is bad? I checked on it and it has a very slight bend but nothing too bad but I don’t know if that would be enough to throw it all off. The push rod doesn’t seem to be sticking out far when it’s resting either. But adjusted fully it, it barely works. Not sure if it would need more bleeding or if it’s the clutch booster itself causing this issue.
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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It wouldn’t be that the clutch booster assembly is bad? I checked on it and it has a very slight bend but nothing too bad but I don’t know if that would be enough to throw it all off. The push rod doesn’t seem to be sticking out far when it’s resting either. But adjusted fully it, it barely works. Not sure if it would need more bleeding or if it’s the clutch booster itself causing this issue.
How are you checking the booster rod measurements with the pedal assembly in the car? It needs to be adjusted and measured with the assembky removed from under the dashboard.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How are you checking the booster rod measurements with the pedal assembly in the car? It needs to be adjusted and measured with the assembky removed from under the dashboard.

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Well for the push rod there’s a lock nut I can easily get to under the dash and then I use pliars to twist out the push rod. I pretty much twisted it out as far as it could go while still being able to lock it with the lock nut.
 

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Be careful on how far you move push the rod inwards ....clutch grab will be on the floor and or at the very top of clutch pedal either way you move it.... is what i believe that you are adjusting pedal position on .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Be careful on how far you move push the rod inwards ....clutch grab will be on the floor and or at the very top of clutch pedal either way you move it.... is what i believe that you are adjusting pedal position on .....
When I fully adjust it out it finally allows me to shift into gear when on. I’m starting to think that either the push rod is bad or that I would need to bench bleed the slave cylinder. I was thinking that if it’s the push rod, I might delete the booster I don’t know if that would fix that issue?
 

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You still have air trapped in the system I'm sure of it ..... clutch master cylinder will bleed itself thru the slave .... but ya need someone to help you bleed it for sure ..... pumping a few times... then hold it to the floor slowly crack the slave bleed screw..... before letting off the clutch peddle close bleed screw and repeat till you have and nice stiff peddle..... small amount of air if done fairly quick will cavitate so do this slowly (1000 of micro foam bubbles) so all the air comes out..... in this process Do not let the reservoir run dry keep it 3/4 the way full If you let the master cylinder run dry you have to repeat this process and start over
 

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Friend of mine while back did this on his motorcycle ..... did a clutch brake fluid flush and just drained completely dry.... it into a catch pan..... "bad" ... lots of things could go wrong with internal rubber cups sleeves and bushing being damage rolled cut etc.... within the clutch master cylinder ..... the only thing I could do at the time was gravity bleed it ..... pour it to it and let it keep draining ..... keep fluid in the res.... at all times could also try the handle of a screw driver and tap lightly on the hard line as it flows freely being gravity bled ..... gravity bleeding Is crack the bled screw and let it do it thing while keeping fluid in res ..... filling as you go tapping round on hard line
 

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While you first start I would fill res crack bleed screw on slave ..... get a look at how fast the fluid is dropping in res .... wait for it to get down bout half inch fill to the top again..... push down by hand on the clutch ....push it all the way to floor slowly .... counting 1 one thousand 2 one thousand 3 one thousand ..... "floor"..... as you come to the floor start coming back up slowly .... counting to 3 one thousand.....again ......moving slowly back out of the clutch..... fill res ..... let gravity bleed for another 20 30secs... or so keeping a close eye on the fluid in res ..... when it gets down to the full mark .... close bled screw and check peddle resistance..... slowly pushing in and out up to 6 times ..... If still spongy repeat...... it will get better ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
While you first start I would fill res crack bleed screw on slave ..... get a look at how fast the fluid is dropping in res .... wait for it to get down bout half inch fill to the top again..... push down by hand on the clutch ....push it all the way to floor slowly .... counting 1 one thousand 2 one thousand 3 one thousand ..... "floor"..... as you come to the floor start coming back up slowly .... counting to 3 one thousand.....again ......moving slowly back out of the clutch..... fill res ..... let gravity bleed for another 20 30secs... or so keeping a close eye on the fluid in res ..... when it gets down to the full mark .... close bled screw and check peddle resistance..... slowly pushing in and out up to 6 times ..... If still spongy repeat...... it will get better ...
I’ll give it a try thank you for the advice I’ll get back to you !
 
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