[mothsmoths]

You may have never tried to read a circuit schematic before, but this one is pretty easy to follow and I circled some key places on the "map". The letters next to the wire traces represent the color of that wire, use common sense for color code letters...first letter main color and second letter is color of the stripe if it has one. An A,B, or C - number marking represents a connector between wires and parts. I'm going through all this for two main reasons... first so anyone who wants to learn more can. Second I specifically want to make and prove a point on this car. As background, owners of our ,3KGT platform cars, especially 91-93s, from very early on complained of no cranking/ slow cranking issues. It became known by several labels..click click no start or similar mostly. As you see on the schematic, there are a large number of connectors and components between the battery and the starter that the voltage/amperage must pass from one metal terminal pushed on another metal terminal at each one of those points With time, dirt, weather, oil, heating/cooling cycles, moisture, physical loosening bending open from being connected/disconnected for maintanence, rust,corrosion, etc., even with very tiny losses at every point, because of the high number of points, the cumulative loss of voltage and amperage between the battery and the solenoid is large enough to prevent the starter solenoid to work as necessary. The design of the original circuit allowed an amperage level only slightly higher than the level required for the starter solenoid to function properly. So, whether it was from the cumulative loss effect, or a single component starting to fail on that circuit, click click no start occurred frequently. Many people modified this circuit using an aftermarket bypass relay to fix the issue, just like what many of us do to bypass the fuel pump relays. Look at your under dash wiring pictures and all the splices and the specific wire colors and sizes spliced. They are the wires B-Y G-B etc coming and going (factory) to starter relay and may explain your problems now and the splicing reason. I'll post a zoom,.....is that a fuse holder without a fuse and a relay socket without a relay????? If you fixed or removed detached anything there, would explain alot. The connector labeled B-30 is located next to the battery and its acid is the most common failure to look for next. I gotta leave house....here's some quick pics. DON

 

[mothsmoths]

You may have never tried to read a circuit schematic before, but this one is pretty easy to follow and I circled some key places on the "map". The letters next to the wire traces represent the color of that wire, use common sense for color code letters...first letter main color and second letter is color of the stripe if it has one. An A,B, or C - number marking represents a connector between wires and parts. I'm going through all this for two main reasons... first so anyone who wants to learn more can. Second I specifically want to make and prove a point on this car. As background, owners of our ,3KGT platform cars, especially 91-93s, from very early on complained of no cranking/ slow cranking issues. It became known by several labels..click click no start or similar mostly. As you see on the schematic, there are a large number of connectors and components between the battery and the starter that the voltage/amperage must pass from one metal terminal pushed on another metal terminal at each one of those points With time, dirt, weather, oil, heating/cooling cycles, moisture, physical loosening bending open from being connected/disconnected for maintanence, rust,corrosion, etc., even with very tiny losses at every point, because of the high number of points, the cumulative loss of voltage and amperage between the battery and the solenoid is large enough to prevent the starter solenoid to work as necessary. The design of the original circuit allowed an amperage level only slightly higher than the level required for the starter solenoid to function properly. So, whether it was from the cumulative loss effect, or a single component starting to fail on that circuit, click click no start occurred frequently. Many people modified this circuit using an aftermarket bypass relay to fix the issue, just like what many of us do to bypass the fuel pump relays. Look at your under dash wiring pictures and all the splices and the specific wire colors and sizes spliced. They are the wires B-Y G-B etc coming and going (factory) to starter relay and may explain your problems now and the splicing reason. I'll post a zoom,.....is that a fuse holder without a fuse and a relay socket without a relay????? If you fixed or removed detached anything there, would explain alot. The connector labeled B-30 is located next to the battery and its acid is the most common failure to look for next. I gotta leave house....here's some quick pics. DON View attachment 310086
View attachment 310087
View attachment 310088
View attachment 310089

Any updates ??