Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay so ive been having this problem on my 95’ Dodge Stealth r/t where after about 30 minutes of driving on the freeway at 75 mph, my temp gauge will start to slowly climb but once i get back down to about 50-55 the cars temperature goes back down to normal. The car doesnt overheat in regular city driving but only when im on the freeway going above 70 then my temp starts to slowly climb up. I want to check my coolant level in the morning when the car is cold just to make sure if its maybe just low. So i would have to take the Radiator cap off when the car is cold and turn it on right? And if i see that the level drops is it okay to just add coolant to the right level? Ive heard that you have to let the air bleed out but how do i know once all the air is fully bleed out? Around how long will it take cause im only gonna be trying to fill it to the correct level if its low. And do i have to reinstall the radiator cap at a certain time like once the air completely bleed out? I feel like im making this harder than it is lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Cold car --> Take radiator cap off --> start car with cap off, watch coolant flow --> idle for a minute, add coolant until leve is up to the neck essentially --> once car gets somewhat warm, go inside and turn heater on max --> continue to check level as the system circulated and "burps" as needed --> cap radiator before the car get too hot and coolant starts coming out.

After its capped, check proper operation of fans automatically coming on, and check A/C fan.

Then check overflow because the coolant light is actually triggered by the level in the overflow only, nothing to do with level in the actual system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Okay so ive been having this problem on my 95’ Dodge Stealth r/t where after about 30 minutes of driving on the freeway at 75 mph, my temp gauge will start to slowly climb but once i get back down to about 50-55 the cars temperature goes back down to normal. The car doesnt overheat in regular city driving but only when im on the freeway going above 70 then my temp starts to slowly climb up. I want to check my coolant level in the morning when the car is cold just to make sure if its maybe just low. So i would have to take the Radiator cap off when the car is cold and turn it on right? And if i see that the level drops is it okay to just add coolant to the right level? Ive heard that you have to let the air bleed out but how do i know once all the air is fully bleed out? Around how long will it take cause im only gonna be trying to fill it to the correct level if its low. And do i have to reinstall the radiator cap at a certain time like once the air completely bleed out? I feel like im making this harder than it is lol
Cold car --> Take radiator cap off --> start car with cap off, watch coolant flow --> idle for a minute, add coolant until leve is up to the neck essentially --> once car gets somewhat warm, go inside and turn heater on max --> continue to check level as the system circulated and "burps" as needed --> cap radiator before the car get too hot and coolant starts coming out.

After its capped, check proper operation of fans automatically coming on, and check A/C fan.

Then check overflow because the coolant light is actually triggered by the level in the overflow only, nothing to do with level in the actual system.
Around how long should i wait before turning the heater on Max? Around 5 min from turning the car on? And when would i be able to tell when the car is starting to get hot and should put the cap back on? After about 10-15 min of the car running im guessing? And ive heard other people squeeze the hoses to help bleed the air faster, should i be doing that as well? This is my second time doing this but dont feel like i burped the system correctly last time so i want to be sure i do it correctly and maybe it will fix my temp gauge rising at highway speeds above 70 mph. Or its that my Radiator is either a little clogged or just need a new radiator /:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
After 5 mins of idle the car will probably be fully hot... You can tell when the car starts to get warm by feeling the radiator (it will be cold until thermostat opens) and watching the temp gauge inside. You really dont NEED to put the cap on until the coolant starts coming out i guess lol.

I would not squeeze the hoses unless they are pretty new. You can easily end up cracking a old hose doing this.

Honestly the 3sx single pass aluminum radiator is pretty cheap, especially when on sale, so it doesnt hurt to do that upgrade if you think you will need it to support future mods or car use. But you don't need to just throw parts at the car if you think you have other issues to address first.
 

·
Keep'n 'em spooled
Joined
·
2,467 Posts
I had the same problem. I removed the radiator, turned it upside down and back flushed it with garden hose pressure and flow. A lot of crap came out. Was good for another year or so then problem came back, so I replaced it with the 3SX single pass radiator - no more problems since and that was 7 years ago. Your problem could be a bad thermostat but honestly these cars are pretty old now, have been through multiple owners in most cases, and coolant often doesn't get replaced as often as it should. The radiator has a bunch of small rectangular or oval shaped tubes that run from top to bottom. The opening at the top of these tubes is actually pretty small and over time the rust and crud that comes off the block clogs up these holes. I bet a new radiator (stock or oversize) solves your problem.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top