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Help me choose a clutch

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Discussion Starter #81
Nice build so far. That clutch doesn't look bad, at least yet. Just inspect everything well for odd wear of fractures. Pressure plate is showing some hot spots for sure, but so long as its not chattering might as well run it.
Thanks! I have no options but to keep using this current clutch.

Got the gearbox disassembled and reassembled today. Bearings and gears looked good, and the carbon synchros still looked brand new. But noticed my stationary gear (probably for the reverse) didn't have a bolt on it. Maybe thats why the gearbox has been rattling a lot. Also the 300M output shaft is starting show some wear because of the worn spool in my transfercase. Luckily the shafts are cheap so don't mind changing it every season :D

Picture showing the 3rd and 4th gear slider which I swapped for a better one. Hopefully gears go in without grinding now.


 

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Discussion Starter #82
Car is running again, every gear works smoothly without any grinding. Clutch doesn't feel grippy at all, probably because the flywheel has taken a lot of damage from the slipping clutch. Nevertheless ready for a whole weekend of racing, first 1/4 mile at the local airstrip on saturday and a roadcourse on sunday! Should have more boost also since I fixed the wastegate that was stuck open and put in 1.2bar/17.4psi springs to the actuators.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
A positive problem before the track today: too much boost. The springs should be 1.2bar but the car is hitting boost cut on thrid gear at 1.7bar/24.6psi. Duty cycle close to 95% and I haven't even touched The boost control settings yet, solenoid @0% duty. Seems like it is going to be full send at the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Weekend was overall successful, car worked great and got it tuned better for the higher boost. Unfortunately it rained on Saturday so didn't get to drive the 1/4 mile. Luckily we had a track day on Sunday in a road course. Drove the car really hard there and the engine still works great, breaks and tyres are toast tho. The road course driving was fun and I learned a few things about the car:

-cooling needs to be improved drastically, I could only do one timed lap before temps were of the chart. The aluminium radiator works great in traffic and 1/4 mile but at a road course it's not cooling enough even with two fans.
-need better brakes
-need a new fuel system since I'm at the limit of stock fuel lines and a single walbro 450
-need better tyres
-need to reduce weight

All this and of course still need a new clutch. (Tho I didn't have any clutch issues this weekend) This car is an endless money pit :D
 

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I experienced the exact same things re: coolant and brakes ...

For coolant I ended up using a lot of water wetter but never fully solved it (maybe other road course folks can chime in)
For brakes I used Motul RBF fluid with Carbotec XP8 pads and it was night and day, waaayyy better brakes
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Glad your clutch held. What are your brake plans?
Friend just installed nissan 370z front calipers and 354mm rotors to front and moved the stock front calipers with 370z 350mm rear discs to the rear. Looks good, I'm thinking about doing the same thing but with 2g rear calipers. I would also like to have 6 piston calipers in the front, have to look into different options. 350mm discs would mean that I'd need 18" wheels and I'm still not sure if I want that since we have a cheap source for 17" semislic tyres. So either 370z brakes or some big brake kit.

I experienced the exact same things re: coolant and brakes ...

For coolant I ended up using a lot of water wetter but never fully solved it (maybe other road course folks can chime in)
For brakes I used Motul RBF fluid with Carbotec XP8 pads and it was night and day, waaayyy better brakes
Yes I'll have to try the motul fluid tho it is really expensive here in Finland.
 

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Cooling : Cut a hole in the front bumper to let in more air, add vents to the bonnet/hood to let hot air out. Or ditch the front mount intercooler and go to upgraded side mounts. If your turbos aren't working too hard you should still be able to keep IATs under control.

Brake Fluid: ATE Type 200 has been an impressive race brake fluid from my experience, it mightn't be too badly priced on your side of the world either? Once I got my brake cooling sorted out I just started running the cheapest DOT 5.1 I could find, never had any issues with boiling fluid. The key is to make sure you've got fresh fluid.

Brake upgrades: Don't bother, you're better off staying with 17" wheels like you said. If you really want to upgrade, change to gen 2 calipers and rotors. Just make sure you're running high quality pads and rotors and then add some ducting to funnel air into the front brakes.
 

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Friend just installed nissan 370z front calipers and 354mm rotors to front and moved the stock front calipers with 370z 350mm rear discs to the rear. Looks good, I'm thinking about doing the same thing but with 2g rear calipers. I would also like to have 6 piston calipers in the front, have to look into different options. 350mm discs would mean that I'd need 18" wheels and I'm still not sure if I want that since we have a cheap source for 17" semislic tyres. So either 370z brakes or some big brake kit.
They make a conversion kit for your Z kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #91
They make a conversion kit for your Z kit?
It is actually not a kit, friend made custom brackets for the calipers in front and rear. 370z discs are almost bolt on to our cars, it is the brake shields that need to be modded that's all.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
And if someone is interested here is a lap around Ahvenisto race circuit with really bad regular steet tyres. My driving is not that great either, and a friend was driving slowly with his subaru in front of me the whole lap. Need to get more time at a track next season.
 

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Well that's a track where you certainly don't want to go off at speed. Your car sounds great.

Does the hand/park brake still work with 370 rotors?
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Well that's a track where you certainly don't want to go off at speed. Your car sounds great.

Does the hand/park brake still work with 370 rotors?
Thanks! Yeah, thats true. I already have enough experience about going of at this track.

The handbrake still works with 370z rear rotors. The rotor has a similar drum as the stock GTO/3000gt rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
This is great. Would love to see a writeup if you do it yourself.
Yes I'll do a writeup if/when I do it. Here are pics of the brakes on my friends car.

Front:

Rear:

As you can see from the rotors the brakes haven't been tested on the road yet since the car is waiting for a new engine wiring harness to be made.
 
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