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Help me choose a clutch

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1G Foglights b!tches
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what did those turbos eat?
 

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1gen VR4 GTO. 4bolt block with forged crank. 15G hong kong hairdryers and supporting mods.
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This doesn't seem like a budget build but you may consider the Aladdin 20t turbos or just good old dr750s. There is a post somewhere that the 22t compressor is to large for the hl shaft.
Yeah I have something like 1000 dollars all together money at the moment so dr750 os out of question.

I will go with pleb kinugawa/mamba china choo choo boi quality turbos. They are nowdays pretty proven. And I quess my car is already built with all kind of china crap parts that are not approved here at all, so it would be stupid to invest on expensive top quality turbos.

But yeah I also figured out last night that 22T is too big. 20T seems reasonable.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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I spray 30-50 gallons per hour of meth/water into my turbo now and ran without a filter with a front bumper intake tube for 5k miles through dust storms, rock roads, insect storms etc, without damage like that. I would guess Aluminum dust didn't do it and something bigger bounced around in both for awhile.
 

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1gen VR4 GTO. 4bolt block with forged crank. 15G hong kong hairdryers and supporting mods.
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I think if there had gone some bigger particles trough the turbo I will find them as I remove the intercooler. But the compressor wheels did not look like something went trough them as there was only damage in the inducer side.

We maybe never know.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
A quick update on my car. Engine bay is shaping up nicely, almost ready for first startup. I made new 3" intake for the turbos, and started making mounts for the new front mount intercooler. Installed a new used oil cooler from a mazda RX8 in the same place where the original cooler was. I have another cooler as well and I will install it to the other side of the car, but for now I will just run a single cooler since AN10 fittings are really expensive and I just want to get the car running first.

I will still have to add an intake air temp sensor to the boost pipe, make new boostpipes from turbos to intercooler, modify the exhaust a bit, and make a mount for the new battery in the trunk.



 

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Discussion Starter #48
Yesterday I drove out of the garage! I installed the new battery in the trunk, and made some really sketch wiring. ECU power cable was just twisted around the battery terminal etc. Didn't even have to crank the engine for long, fired right up and held good oil pressure. To my surprise there weren't any leaks in the engine bay: no coolant, oil, or fuel leaks.

Took a quick test drive and everything was working flawlessly, although I was only running downpipes and couldn't see air/fuel ratios. The engine sounded good tho. But I should have guessed that the first drive wouldn't go all that well: I didn't make it back to the garage, engine stalled on the way back. Almost died of heart attack. Luckily it wasn't anything bad. Fuel feed line had come loose from the back of the car, so lost fuel pressure. Easy fix.
 

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1gen VR4 GTO. 4bolt block with forged crank. 15G hong kong hairdryers and supporting mods.
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Hopefully we get soon results out of your genuine ebay turbos. I hope they will be good, because then all the builders here who always tell that you must get just OEM or super-expensive aftermarket parts are pissed off.

And you should definitely begin to sell your bolt-on megasquirt adapter cable set to people here.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Got the car running this weekend, didn't sleep much tho :D Boost pipes arrived on friday, so I spend the whole day making new pipes from the turbos to intercoolers. Next day I had to make a new exhaust system, but decided to fix the old rusty exhaust I got the car with. Done with minimal effort and zero interest it is definitely not good looking, but no one will see it under the car. At this point it was clear the car would be soon ready for first propper street drive, so I just started prioritising function over form. I will make a full stainless steel exhaust sometime in the future (If I ever have enough money).

When the boostpipes and exhaust were done I started finishing up all the wiring. Got rid of the stock ECU completely, megasquirt now operates A/C clutch etc. As you can see in the picture, intake air temp sensor wiring is still kinda ghetto tho. I also had to make a quick cover for the battery cable coming from the trunk, hence the bubblewrap and red electric tape. Warmed up the engine in the garage and changed the oil for the first time. At first I only thought about driving to the gas station and back to get some fresh E85, and meaby a quick stop at a mcdonalds, but my friends suggested a local car meet.

Are you tuning it yourself?
And to answer this, yes. But only steet tuning, since dyno (especially 4wd) costs a fortune here. I already had a good base tune for stock tubos, so it was really easy to continue adjusting the fuel map from there.

So I got my laptop and a friend with me, and we headed to the gas station. At start it was clear that the car was idling way too high, around 2000rpm, and no adjustments from the ECU had an effect to it. There was a vacuum leak somewhere, and in the gas station I also noticed that the power steering pump was leaking somewhere. Guess it didn't like that I just welded a AN6 fitting onto it. Because of the high "idle" rpm the car ran pretty hot, but we mostly drove on the highway so It was enough to cool the engine down. I will have to increase cooling performance.

I had not installed any air filters for the short first drive and though I'm not going to make any boost and drive really slowly to brake it in, but decided to send it anyway and head to the car meet. In the end I drove 150km (little less than 100 miles) over the weekend, and ripped it all the time :D Got a pretty good tune. There was only 7psi of boost, but the car feels really FAST. Faster than it was with the stock turbos anyway. Had a few races with a wrx and a rx-7, didn't lose. Because of the high idle It took an extra second to build enough vacuum for the brake booster, so racing and breaking from high speeds felt rather sketch. Can't wait what it can do with 25psi if the turbos can produce that much.

Although there were (and still is) problems with the car, it ran really well the whole weekend. Next I will start tackling those problems and finishing it all up. After that and a little more braking in the engine I will start adding some boost. I'm still running stock fuel lines and a single walbro 450, but I hope to get atleast 15psi as a start.
 

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Obsessive Carpolsive
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Congratulations on getting it running!
 
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Discussion Starter #53
Long time no update, I have just been driving the car around and enjoying it. Car is working great, tho the stock radiator seems to be little too weak to cool the engine with the bigger turbos. Installed a new spal fan to replace the stock fan. It helped a little, but I still need to upgrade the radiator. No surprises there. Engine break in almost done, I have driven almost 1000km (620 miles). Consumption is around 21l/100km or 11mpg of E85. It would be better if I could keep myself from flooring it all the time :D

To night we were racing with my friends and the car worked great the whole time, but problems started to emerge while racing. First pass I tried to use launch control. After dumping the clutch the car dropped out of boost and left terribly. I will have to adjust launch control settings to figure out whats the problem with that. Second pass I just tried dumping the clutch from 5000rpm. Second pass I just tried dumping the clutch from 5000 rpm. Launch was great and the car was definitely on a mission, but after shifting to second the clutch started to slip and I had to let of. I was leading at that point so that wasn't very fun. Third pass clutch held fine from around 3000rpm, but when I tried to shift 3rd gear it didn't let me and I lost that race as well. My gearbox has carbon fiber synchros, but it seems that I destroyed the 3rd and 4th synchro hub last summer while sending it with worn out stock synchros. At Least the gears shift fine in lower rpms and while shifting slower, but while racing and shifting at 7500 rpm it completely refuses to go into 3rd gear and it grinds the hub a lot.

All in all it is rather frustrating. I'm still running 0.5bar (7psi) of boost and the drivetrain is already limiting my car. No point of even rising the boost until these problems are solved. If they are. I would have to remove the gearbox again and change the synchro hub and synchros. This is just regular 600 mile maintenence, but I would also have to buy a new clutch since the cheap ebay clutch is clearly not up for the task. With a limited student budget these parts are way out of my reach for a long time. Oh and of course I need the buy a new radiator and a second spal fan as well.

The positive thing is that the engine seems to be holding fine and that is able to take a lot of abuse. I will continue to use it as my daily, it is just that fun to drive. Can anyone recommend a good clutch/pressure plate/(flywheel combo)?
 

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Discussion Starter #54

From this datalog screenshot the slipping clutch can be seen clearly. After shifting to second gear revs (red graph) stay flat around 6000rpm and the vehicle speed (white graph) is still increasing.
 

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I've been running an Exedy clutch for years with no issues and plenty of abuse. Pink heavy duty pressure plate, standard clutch plate, standard flywheel.

It really depends on what your end power goal is.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I've been running an Exedy clutch for years with no issues and plenty of abuse. Pink heavy duty pressure plate, standard clutch plate, standard flywheel.

It really depends on what your end power goal is.
Whatever maxing out the 19t's will make, so I don't think stock clutch would hold. I think the current clutch holds fine normally, but when I launch the car hard it starts to slip.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
In the last week or so I installed a bleed valve and raised the boost to around 1bar (14.5psi) and tuned it. The car feels really fast now, but I still want to max out the current fuel system. It seems that a single walbro 450 and stock fuel lines with 1100cc injectors wont get me very far since duty cycle @7500 rpm is already around 78% in 14.5psi of boost with the 19t's. For some reason the bleed valve wouldn't let me add more boost tho.

Yesterday I installed an electric boost control solenoid to see if it would help. With 100% duty (valve fully closed) I still get around 15psi of boost. It seems that the stock wastegate accuators with 7psi springs are not strong enough, and exhaust backpressure is able to open the wastegates. So in addition to a new clutch I will need to buy new wastegate accuators. Yay.
 

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TIRED OF WAITING
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What is your fuel pressure set to? You should have no problem with fueling if your base fuel pressure is high enough.

Clay
 

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Discussion Starter #59
What is your fuel pressure set to? You should have no problem with fueling if your base fuel pressure is high enough.

Clay
I don't even know what the base pressure of the stock regulator is, I'd guess 3bar. I'm also running E85 so I need more fuel than with regular gas.
 
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