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Discussion Starter #21
That might be true, but I don't have money for bolt on turbos and the supporting mods :D TD05 would have been cool, but I really like the powerband and fast spool of a TD04 engine. Also wanted to make manifolds since I had never done any before.
 

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Obsessive Carpolsive
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Do you have a pipe bender to make all those crazy bends for the headers? Nice job looking great!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Do you have a pipe bender to make all those crazy bends for the headers? Nice job looking great!
Thanks! No I don't have a pipe bender, the headers are made from tight radius 90 degree bends and straight pipe. I used a metal band saw and a regular angle grinder to cut and modify the bends and MIG/TIG for welding.

Pipe is 48mm x 2.6mm (or 1.88inch x 0.1 inch) where the smaller number is the stregth of the wall and bigger number the radius. Material is regular steel since stainless steel (304l or 316l) would have been atleast twice as expensive.
 

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For sustained high output - cooling is the major limiting factor for this platform. With a stock radiator and stock motor boosted to 14lb (~400 crank HP) and race gas, I struggled to maintain decent temps at track days here in CA.

For this big upgrade, I went with a Mishimoto radiator, EVO style vent at the front of the hood, heat wrap around the headers and turbo hot-sides, '99 front end with a splitter and ducts. Its in the shop for paint atm, but will get separate cold air ducting to the rear turbo next. The full list of mods is in my signature and there is a thread on some of my build.
Water/meth helps that. Or going ethanol does too.
 

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1gen VR4 GTO. 4bolt block with forged crank. 15G hong kong hairdryers and supporting mods.
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Not sure I understand building manifolds then. The turbine housing and wheel of the td04 is the restriction, not the stock manifolds. A lot of work for td04 turbos! Would have been cool to see you go td05.
Yes, quite a lot work, but not just for td04 turbos. Our manifolds are using T25 flange so we have huge amount of cheap turbos to fit to them. Maybe gt28s some day...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Finally made some progress with the car after holidays! The car came with an aftermarket stainless steel y-pipe so I decided to use stainless steel for the new downpipes as well. I also want to use v-bands for the whole exhaust so I will cut of the flanges from the y-pipe.


Rear downpipe was actually really easy to make since I still haven't disassembled the engine. I used the old stock turbo as a jig for holding the y-pipe in the stock location and then made a new downpipe for the new rear turbo. Pipe is 2.5". It should fit in to the car easy.



New JE forged pistons also arrived. I dropped off all the new forged internals (pistons, crank, rods) for balancing, should get them back after a week. After the front downpipe is ready I can disassemble the engine and take the block to a machinist for honing.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Front downpipe ready! Welds aren't that great but otherwise both downpipes turned out ok. Now most of the fabrication work should be done, next up engine rebuild with forged internals.



Also disassembled the whole engine already. The engine was in excellent condition, even the honing marks were still left in the cylinders. The oil pump gear was cracked tho, so good thing I started this build before it failed totally. Dodged a bullet there. The pump may have broken when I accidentally shifted from second gear to first gear and the engine over revved quite a bit. Also all the rod bearings had marks on them and two main bearings where really worn out, but the crank was in good condition. Block was really rusty so I will clean it up and paint it.






After the engine was disassembled I also disassembled the heads and lapped the valves. Heads were dirty but overall in good condition. Exhaust valves were a little burned, but nothing too serious.
 

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Water/meth helps that. Or going ethanol does too.
Yes I have water-meth injection and plan to convert to flex fuel so I can run on Ethanol when its available.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Not much going on lately, mostly just waiting for parts. Block and pistons are still at the machinist but got the heads back on Thursday, so I had the weekend to assemble them. I don't know if it was really necessary to resurface the heads but if the engine is going to see almost 2 bars of boost it might be for the be for the better. So heads are now assembled with new stem seals and valves lapped.




Received new 300M 18 spline outputshaft. Hopefully the transfer case holds, I'm under the impression that it is the next weakest link in the drivetrain. Also got back the new bottom end from balancing. If I get the block back this week I might have time to assemble the engine next weekend.



Friend got the engine pulled from the third GTO, he is also going for 19t's. Next season will be interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
One small step forward. Finally got the block back from the machineshop, and everything was ready for assembly. I painted the block with a two component paint and started assembling the bottom end. Cleaned everything off and installed new main bearings and ARP studs, and the found out that the thrust washers supplied with the crank were wrong. Should have checked them before I threw the old ones away. I asked from many autopart stores but none had any supply or inventory. So more waiting ahead. After I got over the frustration we gapped the piston rings and assembled the pistons with my friends. Stock rod + piston combo for comparison in the picture. Hopefully new thrust washers arrive quickly.




 

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Discussion Starter #35
Productive weekend, got the thrust washers and assembled most of the engine. I still have a lot of things to do before dropping the engine back in the car, but luckily I have most of the parts and everything still needed should be available locally. I might be able to start the engine for the first time by the end of the month.





 

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Wrong thread.
 

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1gen VR4 GTO. 4bolt block with forged crank. 15G hong kong hairdryers and supporting mods.
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Today we made some great success with my red GTO (also shown in the thread).

Whole week we tried adjust maps, recalibrate sensors and read datalogs, but the car did not behave well at almost any rpm range.

Today we found that i had some day uploaded a map with incorrect base advance. So we were pulling almost 1 bar at +50 degrees of advance. I think it is now proven that with ethanol our engine won't be blowing up with any insane amount of advance.

But I checked that everything was okay and set the ignition to match with the timing mark. Now it runs pretty well and we have some serious power.
 

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1gen VR4 GTO. 4bolt block with forged crank. 15G hong kong hairdryers and supporting mods.
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I got my car running nicely yesterday as I found loose electrical connection to one coil.

But then I could not get my boost even to 15psi. O checked my turbos and they were fukked :D Both of them.

286717


Luckily I'm not the one who is afraid that little dirt entering the engine is causing instantly catastrophical engine damage. But cleary I need new compressor wheels. Good excuse to pick bigger wheels, as last night I did some calculation and found out that the choke limit for my current 15G turbos is somewhere at 22Psi at 7000rpm.

I wondered if I should give a try to 19T, 20T or 22T compressor wheels to get my boost up to +30Psi. What I have read is that 22T is already pretty mismatched compressor to td04hl turbine, but I also have read that 22T works well with our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I too made some good progress with my car last week. I again disassembled the gearbox and installed the new 300M output shaft, and also repaired three broken threads. Since the transmission made really awful noises while operating it was rather surprising to see all the bearings inside were fine, even the shift fork that I repaired looked good. Guess I did something right when I swapped out the synchros last summer.


Installed new manifolds and turbos to the engine, OEM oil return lines and front turbo oil feed line fit good. I had to replace one turbo coolant line with an AN6 line but otherwise I use OEM hardlines. Modified y-pipe also fits good, hope it is not too difficult to install under the car. Clutch is still the same ebay sintered clutch, it held good last summer so no need to replace it. After the transmission wast bolted to the engine it was ready to be dropped back in to the car.


Almost everything cleared fine in the engine bay and the engine was easy to drop back in. Unfortunately the rear manifold hit the subframe a little, so I had to lift the engine back out and make some room for the manifold. A couple hits with a sledgehammer and the subframe was dented enough to clear the manifold. It might not be the most elegant solution, but it worked :D

New polyurethane bushings for engine supports helped to make the installation easier. Next up finishing it all up. Can't wait to get it running.
 

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This doesn't seem like a budget build but you may consider the Aladdin 20t turbos or just good old dr750s. There is a post somewhere that the 22t compressor is to large for the hl shaft.
 
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