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Mitsubishi GTO twin 19T-HL E85 @22psi
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone! I'm a mitsubishi GTO owner from Finland, and I thought it would be fun to write little bit about my car here, hopefully someone finds this interesting. Long story short, I'm going to try to get at least 600hp reliably from the engine (laugh all you want). Here are the specs before starting the actual build:



-imported from Japan in 2007
-stock engine with stock turbos
-stock 5 speed 18-spline tranny with synchrotech carbon fiber synchros
-D2 coilovers
-MS3X ECU
-1200cc injectors
-Walbro 450
-E85
-ebay 6-plate sintered clutch

I will try to update here about the progress of the project as often as possible. As a start here is a little recap about things that happened with the car after I bought it.

I bought the car on May of 2019 as a project. I got a good deal, even though the car wasn’t working correctly, and it wasn’t inspected so I couldn’t drive it on the road. Luckily, we have these transfer license plates available here in Finland, so I was able to drive the car to the garage since I don’t have a trailer. The drive was around 400km (250 miles) and the car worked fine even though it was running with five cylinders. I thought that it would take a long time to get the car working and pass MOT but fortunately that turned out to be a wrong assumption.

Back then I also had another build turbo car which suffered an unfortunate fate: I flipped it over at a road course. Since it was also my daily, I had to get the GTO working quickly. The tires that came with the car were trash, so I got rims that would fit the semislic tires that were left over from the crashed car. These tires are normally used in rallycross but they do make great daily tires, the traction is unreal. The rear brakes where dragging and the pads where completely out so I changed those. Then I just decided to try my luck in MOT. Didn’t pass since emissions were too high, the car was still running on 5 cylinders. There weren’t any other complaints though which was good. Again, these problems were surprisingly easy to fix: I welded all the exhaust leaks and my friend noticed I had a bad spark plug wire and a bad coil. We have three GTO’s in our garage and my friend had a new coil and a spark plug wire laying around. With ll 6 cylinders now working the car passed emission and MOT and it became my daily. And of course it felt more powerful with the engine fully working, but I knew there wasn’t enough.

Never though that a GTO this cheap could be this good. I used it as a daily for the whole summer and it only failed me once, and that was completely my own fault. More on that later. I even made two road trips with the car full of people. The car was stock for most of the summer, apart from the aftermarket intercooler some previous owner had installed. The front bumper was also aftermarket. I changed that to an original one.



There was of course, one little problem: the synchro’s of gears 3 and 4 were really worn and the gears ground every time when shifting. Then came the possibility to drive a quarter mile. Despite the synchro problem decided to attend the event with my friends and just send it. First two passes went great, even though my times weren’t that great. 14.3 was my best pass, while my friend did 13.2 with his GTO. It has stock turbos and adaptronic ECU with E85 and launch control, so wasn’t really surprised my car was slower. During the third and final pass I trashed the gearbox. It got stuck to second gear, so I could barely make it back to the garage.


at the track

https://flic.kr/p/2gQAZGp GTO vs GTO (credits to Niko Michelsson)

There was no other option but to pull the gearbox out. Ordered new synchro’s from rvengeperformance and disassembled the gearbox. A pin that holds the shift fork to the rod had gotten lose and broken, leaving the gearbox stuck in second gear. The fork was also a little damaged, but I was able to fix it. Luckily it hadn’t completely broken, so the gears were undamaged. Replaced the synchro’s, put the gearbox back together, changed the clutch to an ebay 6 plate sintered clutch, and put the gearbox back to the car. Everything was working flawlessly again.


gearbox removed


crack fixed


new synchro

new clutch

Also as mentioned we have 3 GTO’s in our garage. One of them has/had TD04HL-15t turbos, got it finally working during this summer, but it spun a bearing during it’s first drive. Oil cooler line came loose. As of now it’s waiting for parts. We made a new aggressive timing map to the adaptronic driven GTO. It was enough to tear the stock clutch into pieces. Friend replaced synchro’s from his gearbox in the same time when fixing the clutch. He also installed the same ebay clutch as my GTO has.






In the end of summer I installed new D2 coilovers and megasquirt MS3X ecu and started using E85. The car felt much faster but it wasn’t enough. I also tested the car on a road course. Didn’t crash this time. I even dyno tested the car: the result was poor 350hp at the crank. Drove it daily until the end of November with 0 problems, the new ECU worked much better than the old stock one. Drove a total of 9000km (5600 miles) from May to November, the semislic tires were completely worn out. It was time to start the build for real.

new coilovers


new ECU and wiring


at the road course


on the dyno


Intro turned out to be a little longer than expected, sorry for that.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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Great write up!

Let's see pics of the car you rolled at the track. lol
 

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Mitsubishi GTO twin 19T-HL E85 @22psi
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Discussion Starter #4
Great write up!

Let's see pics of the car you rolled at the track. lol
As requested :D The car was an old mercedes 190E W201 with a M111 engine and a TD04L-19T turbo if someone is interested, power was somewhere between 260 to 300hp. According to GPS data from a laptime app impact was around 104km/h (64mph). Amazingly I only got small scratches and even drove my friends car after the track was cleaned.

Here I'm standing on top of the car and thinking "good thing that I already bought the GTO"


The aftermath. Luckily the only thing that was damaged was the chassis of the merc so I was able to sell it.
 

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1gen VR4 GTO. 4bolt block with forged crank. 15G hong kong hairdryers and supporting mods.
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Yeah hello all, I am the unlucky owner ot the red GTO.

Modifications done this far:

4bolt block
forged crank
wiseco forged pistons
some weird td04hl-15G turbos from mx5 aftermarket turbo kits
diy exhaust manifolds
diy intercooler piping
Big FMIC
Front mount oil cooler
Y-shaped 2x2.5 -> 1x3.0 downpipe
Rps aluminium flywheel
Some unknown south bend clutches pressure plate
XTD stage 3 ebay cluch
Ebay 100% china crap 1000cc/min injectors (defus injectors)
Walbro 450lph in-tank pump
AEM gen1 ECU and speed density system
Cool JDM dildo gearshift knob
Top raking steering wheel from ebay
Some unknown sport seats with diy rails and mounts
Almost every part I have bougth to this car have been pre-owned and used parts.

With my recent rebuild I wonder if I would wrap my engine bay completely with golden heat wrap tape. I guess I will get banned from here because of that.
 

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Mitsubishi GTO twin 19T-HL E85 @22psi
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Discussion Starter #6
Made some good progress with the car last week! Engine was removed and already made the rear manifold. Removing the engine was actually easier than I thought. Also noticed that some previous owner had timed the front half of the engine wrong, both cams where one tooth retarded. And I have driven it like that the whole summer :D

Here is what the engine bay looked like



Planning a place for the new turbo. Took some measurements and decided I could use the same place as the original turbo. I was able to mock up a manifold that clears the rear engine mount and subframe. The new turbo will also use stock coolant and oil lines!



I was unsure whether the new manifold and turbo would fit or not, so I decided to test fit the engine with the new turbo in the car. And it actually fit! I will have to make a heatshield for the brake lines and reroute the power steering lines but that should be easy. After confirming that the manifold fits I welded all the runners. Still need to weld the flanges to the collector and runners. I know the manifold is not pretty, but everything is self made and it should flow good. And yes, I'm definitely not a professional welder :D




The engine is a stock first gen 2 bolt block. I already have a forged crank for it, and will be ordering JE pistons and h-profile con rods. Why con rods? Because stocks are press fit and machining them for full float pins would cost as much as some Chinese rods here in Finland. I know that a stock engine would most probably hold the power I'm after (especially with good tune and E85) but since I'm tearing the engine appart anyway might as well go with a forged bottom end. What do you guys think about the stock bore JE pistons? I'm also considering the 300M 18 spline output shaft, but then again I could just go with the stock one and see how long it lasts. Next I will start making the front manifold.
 

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Mitsubishi GTO twin 19T-HL E85 @22psi
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Discussion Starter #8
What are you impressions of the D2 coilovers?
I like them, definitely quality coils. Easily adjustable height and dampening, and as you would expect the stiffest setting is really stiff. Almost feels like the shocks are solid :D As for the softest setting it is still far stiffer than the stock suspension, but I think it is daily drivable. D2 coilovers are also a lot lighter than stock coils. Lowering the car does seem to brake CV boots, probably because of the drive shaft angle. Both my inner front drive shaft boots broke after installing the set. For some reason the front coilovers don't have mounting threads for brake lines or abs sensor wires, I just used zip ties to tie them to the shocks. Worked well for thousands of miles. I'll try to come up with a better solution this summer. Those are really the only complaints I have, definitely a better set than stock and the car handles really well with these. Thats comparing to non ECS struts since my car only had those in the back (someone had swapped out the fronts) and the ECS computer didn't work because of that.
 

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Welcome to the sickness :)
In my opinion, 600HP is a good target for a street and road course car. Beyond that its difficult to maintain sufficient cooling for much more than 1/4 blasts (even in Finland). I have mine tuned down to 650 crank 515 WHP for this reason and can still spin all 4 tires if I'm not careful.

You will definitely need heat shields for the rear turbo and header. Re-routing and heat shielding the brake and clutch lines is also a good idea. The clutch line is a particularly prone to overheating. Hot clutch fluid overwhelms the self-adjuster and causes clutch drag when everything becomes heat soaked. You will find it during a long track session or a long spirited blast in the twisties - it gets harder and harder to swap gears as everything heats up. Then it all goes back to normal after the car cools down.
 

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Mitsubishi GTO twin 19T-HL E85 @22psi
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Discussion Starter #11
Welcome to the sickness :)
In my opinion, 600HP is a good target for a street and road course car. Beyond that its difficult to maintain sufficient cooling for much more than 1/4 blasts (even in Finland). I have mine tuned down to 650 crank 515 WHP for this reason and can still spin all 4 tires if I'm not careful.

You will definitely need heat shields for the rear turbo and header. Re-routing and heat shielding the brake and clutch lines is also a good idea. The clutch line is a particularly prone to overheating. Hot clutch fluid overwhelms the self-adjuster and causes clutch drag when everything becomes heat soaked. You will find it during a long track session or a long spirited blast in the twisties - it gets harder and harder to swap gears as everything heats up. Then it all goes back to normal after the car cools down.
Sounds awesome, what mods have you done to improve cooling? And yes, I'll definitely shield the brake lines. I don't think the clutch line will be a problem since the car is a RHD GTO so the clutch line is not near the turbo or the header.

Regarding power I'll most probably be limited by the stock fuel lines and a single walbro 450. Planning on upgrading the fuel system later with dual 450's and new lines. I'm also planning to make a dual table switch for the megasquirt ECU so I can drive with a lower or higher boost setting when needed. Good to know that cooling might be a problem, will have to look into it.
 

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For sustained high output - cooling is the major limiting factor for this platform. With a stock radiator and stock motor boosted to 14lb (~400 crank HP) and race gas, I struggled to maintain decent temps at track days here in CA.

For this big upgrade, I went with a Mishimoto radiator, EVO style vent at the front of the hood, heat wrap around the headers and turbo hot-sides, '99 front end with a splitter and ducts. Its in the shop for paint atm, but will get separate cold air ducting to the rear turbo next. The full list of mods is in my signature and there is a thread on some of my build.
 

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Mitsubishi GTO twin 19T-HL E85 @22psi
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Discussion Starter #13
Made some progress with the front header today. Trying to get it done this week so I can finally start making the downpipes. The new turbo is again positioned so that it uses OEM oil and coolant lines.




 

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1gen VR4 GTO. 4bolt block with forged crank. 15G hong kong hairdryers and supporting mods.
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Yesterday I broke 2nd ring of a piston during install.

Wisecos don't use stock piston rings. However 1st piston ring of stock pistons is only 0.01mm different in heigth so I re-used it. See how it works.
 

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Mitsubishi GTO twin 19T-HL E85 @22psi
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Discussion Starter #16
Looking great. Need bigger wheels though.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I will not have money for new wheels after this :D Besides I need 17" rims since thats the only size I can get those semislic tyres cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Front header done! Here are some pics. Still need to mill down the flanges and give the headers a coat of paint or something.






Next I will start making the downpipe. My car already had a aftermarket stainless steel Y pipe from the downpipes onward, plan is to modify that a bit. I will put the OEM front turbo and header on the engine and use that as a reference where the new rear downpipe will go. After that I'll do the same with the new front header. Downpipes will be 2.5" stainless steel with v-band clamps.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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Nice work!

What turbos are you doing?
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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Not sure I understand building manifolds then. The turbine housing and wheel of the td04 is the restriction, not the stock manifolds. A lot of work for td04 turbos! Would have been cool to see you go td05.
 
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