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Discussion Starter #1
the reason why I ask this is because of my earlier post on page 2. That my car feels like a turbo is working much harder than the other...but maintains 15psi but when I see the gauge go up, it feels that each psi does not have much power influence on the engine...its when 15psi hits and then you may feel the car move a little faster...so I am assuming that it's the one of the wastegates that is unbalanced. Also, roger, I tried spraying around the area where I heard the hissing noise with carburator cleaner...but found nothing...hissing still there...any advice???? PaulH, suggested that it could be the hose that attaches to the y-pipe that's leaking...a whole or something I guess I'll check it this weekend...please post any advice...thanks!!!!


p.s. so if the wastegates are unbalanced all I have to do is tighten the nut to make the wasteges close a little more, right? and how do I know if my actuators are working well? pump some air and see if they expand and then contract????

[This message has been edited by fastboy (edited December 21, 1999).]
 

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very dificult if not impossible to do on the car correctly.. I feel that it is unlikely that they are unbalanced.. Have you checked your EGR like I told you????? I still have not heard back from you on this one yet..
 
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Brian:

I missed whatever post you're referring to about the EGR. Based on what I'm reading, do you think it's stuck open?

Just curious,

Bill Wagner
 

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I just had a problem with an engine we swapped last weekend and it "hissed" allover the engine. Unfortunately, the problem was the intake plenum as it cracked at one of the throttle cable holder and leaked under pressure. But it was very visible.

In your case, I'd replace all hoses (good time to dress up, hehe) with correctly following the drawing in the manual. Also remove and inspect the BPV and the y-pipe. Especially check the y-pipe if the nipple is broken or the sealing has cracks.

For the wastegates you must loosen the WG actuator mounting bolts, then remove the securing spring at the wastegate handle and then lift it off. The nut is only there to secure the lever and it mus be loosen first. Then open and closing the wastegate should be very easy. Adjust the lever so the WG is fully closed but not under too much pressure from the spring in the actuator. I do not think that they are unbalanced but maybe not adjusted. Doing the job at the rear turbo is almost inpossible but with the intake plenum removed you should have more room.

For testomonials, use a handpump that is able to hold 6 psi and apply the pressure to the wastegate line with BOTH actuators attached. Then around 3-5 psi the actuators start to move the levers. Use a mirror on the rear side to see this. They should move simultanusly. If not, one is having a problem then.

Good luck,
Roger
 

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Brian,
yes, I took a look at the EGR...but did not take it out...cuz didn't have time...I saw a small vacuum hose coming out from it. I turned to the manual and the manual explain a test with a pump...do I have to take out the plenum before I do the test? and Must I take out the plenum to take out the egr valve? how many bolts are there on the egr? approx? I'll get down there possibly this weekend and will post my findings...thanks brian.


Roger,

thanks for your advice also. Yeah, I think I am going to replace all the vaccum hoses with new ones...and see how that goes. I saw that you posted somewhere that one must cap off the top rubber hose going to the top of the stock boost solenoid...what I have is the hks evc ez and I already plugged the bottom one...the top one is still connected to the stock solenoid and is not plugged. If I plug that will I get the power back to normal? but I doubt it cuz b4 when I was running the stock solenoid...my car was running like this already....I guess I'll have to follow your advice and dress up the engine with vaccum hoses
Pain in the you know where...take care and please keep me up to date with new findings and insights!!!


thank you all for replying!!!
 
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