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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi folks,


I'm Henrique, I live in Brazil and I'm currently the owner of a 1994 Sable Black VR-4. I picked up this car in December 2020, and have been restoring it to its former glory since. I bought it out of my state and drove it home (~300mi), first impressions were not the best, car was feeling slow, although it easily walked my friends cars as expected (E36 325i Manual and an 2011 MB E350).




I had already noted that the car would overheat if ran hard, it leaked engine oil, and grinded all gears but 5th and 6th. In january it sat for about 7 days, and went out of timing when I tried to start it again. Upon disassembly I found that the hydraulic tensioner was installed loose and was completely extended. This was the push needed to take out the engine and trans. As always with these cars, I found way too many problems when I began to tear it apart, TC was almost empty, freeze plugs were rusted to hell, gearbox shifter shaft was leaking, cooling system was ran on water and was full of oxide... List goes on.









 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Next Step for me was to tear down the engine, as ordering parts from the U.S to Brazil is always both time and money consuming (import tax here is 60% and our currency is worth shit), and I needed to see what was the extent of the damage before ordering. With the engine already is a hoist, I started pulling out both turbos and the upper intake.







I found both turbos were rebuilt by a known company, and had virtually no play, but it seemed that whoever assembled those turbos left the wastegate rods adjustment way too loose as I could shake the rod and the valve in the housing by hand, I think this would explain the "lazyness" my car had, I know that even with the stock "boost gauge" showing 10psi, I could be boosting something like 5psi with the WG's like that.



I continued the engine disassembly and found it to be in good shape. Someone had rebuilt it not long ago, the honing was very pronounced and the bearings looked nice aside from some debris scoring. Intakes valves were bent and exhaust ones were fine.















All parts were cleaned and properly stored. Oil pump was almost new and in perfect condition, don't know if it is the stock Mitsubishi unit, but it looked great. So I will be replacing:
  • Pistons and Rings
  • Bearings
  • Intake Valves
  • All Gaskets and seals
  • Water Pump
  • Timing Kit

I ordered the parts from rockauto and waited patiently.
 

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1994 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR-4
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I wait patiently for more of that sweet sweet imagery! Awesome project you've got going on there.. I can't wait to tear into mine a little further, almost end of the driving season for me up here.
 

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Lovbyts
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Sounds like you more than you were expecting, in a good way. Its nice when you get lucky.
Ive only had that happen on 1 car I bought. Black 1991 RT TT. I flew from Wa to Ca to get it for $3000 about 15 years ago. it was running and driveable but low/no power. The owner figured it had a bad turbo. No rod knock. I checked out the car and other than no power it drove nice and made no noise but had a check engine light when you got on it.

After buying it I drove about 15 miles to a Walmart, bought some duct tape and wrapped it around the rubber hose that connects to the Y pipe and a hose clamp where it had been rubbing on a hose clamp and made a over 1in hole in the bottom of the hose.
I unhooked the battery for about 30 minutes while doing the work and after drove back home to Wa with no check engine lights nad boosting a little above 9lbs with no problem. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys!

Moving on to the gearbox disassembly.

As I previously stated, almost all gears grinded, TC had almost no oil when I drained it, and the gearbox oil looked bad, so I went for a complete overhaul.
TC turned out to be fine despite the lack of oil






Than I moved on to the gearbox itself. O.S was in good shape just like the TC Spool splines, other than that, the trans was dirty outside and inside, looked like no one has neves changed the transmission fluids on this car. Synchros were bad on 1st to 4th gears, 1st/2nd slider had broken springs and the fill plug was stripped, other than that it was all good in there.










All parts were cleaned and properly stored, with the parts list in my hands Chris from Rvenge hooked me up with the best parts avaliable for these transmissions. So I ordered:

  • All Gearbox and TC seals
  • Synchrotec's 1-6th carbon synchros
  • 1st/2nd Slider ball and springs

And I ended up buying all bearings locally, Timken branded.
As these 6 speeds are known to break the bellhousing between shafts, I made the famous bellhousing brace. I originally intended to do it like Chris, Ray and most old schoolers here do but my machinist tought otherwise and made it his way. Well, I did not like that he welded the plate entirely to the bell, but it was already done when I came to pick it up. I was worried with the bearing housing ID deforming with that much welding close to it, but we checked it on a mill and it ended up fine. I hope this doesnt bring me problems in the future.


That's it for now guys, I'll be back with more soon.
Cheers
 

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Thank you for putting in the work to bring her back to life. They are truly special cars and I see a lot of them that have been worked on by shade tree mechanics that don’t know what they’re doing. Sweet progress so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks man, appreciated.

So, after taking the engine and trans apart, I ordered all the parts needed for both rebuilds, an aluminium 2-row radiator, a brake master cylinder as my brake pedal was going almost to the floor but would come up if I "pumped" the pedal. I ordered a Sheridan Engineering ECU harness conector kit, a Speed Density conversion conector (just a male plug that fits into the stock MAF connector), and a TE 174915-6 (Stock ECU Female) in order to build a adapter harness to run my Megasquirt MS3 Gold Box using the stock wiring. At this point I defined what would be the engine mods and started porting the heads. Here in Brazil we have E100 (pure ethanol) at virtually every pump, and it is way cheaper than gas so in order to run ethanol fuel and take advantage of all its potential, when ordering the pistons I went for the N/A engine ones as I plan to have 10-11:1 CR. To take full advantage of the shipping time I started to port the heads and intake.

Intake mani



Porting & Matching:


Final Results:



Moving to the exhaust ports:



 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Now to the Valve Bowls correction
Stock:


Correction:



Moving to the intake side, valve bowl correction, divider profiling...






Intake Mani/Port Interaction:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I dont have a flow bench at the time, but these modifications are not very radical, I did not reshape the entire ports, just made common sense corrections, but I'm pretty confident that this will suffice my needs. A 3.0L engine with 10:1 compression, ported heads, aluminium FW and a MAFless intake ducting should add well to the engine's response.

Thats it for now, I'll keep posting until the car is ready, there are some things I still have to post to get you guys up to speed, but I'm going to do it in steps so more people can enjoy and comment without this being just a massive picture album of my car.

Cheers
 

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1994 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR-4
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Wow holy crap dude I was absolutely not expecting this level of professionalism. This is incredible work!
 

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Marshall Taylor
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You surely haven’t wasted any time getting things torn down and inspected. Obviously, you are a very skilled Technician. Good luck getting the parts in and on the reassembl.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Thanks Guys!

So, after the heads were ported, they were sent to the machine shop to have new guides and valves installed, and a valvejob. Meanwhile I was looking to get rid of the SUV like 20 inch rims with chinese tires that came with the car when I bought it, and there are not many options for these cars down here but after some watching on local "for sale" groups I found some OZ's from the early 00's that fitted the car style, kind of period correct, and bought a set of Yokohama Advan Neovas 255/35s, I would have gone 40's profile, but again, not easy to find down here, and importing tires is a major hassle, so I went with 35s anyway...







And since I was messing with cosmetics I sent my headlights to be cleaned and polished. I was very pleased with the results. My projector lenses were kind of opaque, and the entire thing looked like new afterwards.

Before:


Opened up, and after:


This is it for now, I'll be back soon with more badly taken pictures!

Cheers
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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nice looking car! keep gindin!
 
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SDSU Alumnus
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Excellent work, so far! You will like those Neova AD08R's 🙂

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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