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Brand New Turbos...Whats Wrong?

1470 Views 35 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Curt93T/T
I just completed a turbo swap, and i have smoke coming out everywhere when i drive. Also, my BOV is still spewing out oil! Whats wrong???

The smoke does not smell like oil. When i added coolant, i spilled a lot of it over the engine compartment, and i hope thats what it is. But i let it smoke for a while then test drove the car. It still continued to smoke after a 5-10 minute drive AND i now see oil spewing out the BOV! Could this oil just be the leftovers of what was sitting in the pipes and intercoolers? It seemed darker than the full synthetic i dropped in.

I performed the turbo swap pretty much by the book. The only question i had was on the Purge Control Valve (it is a black thing with several hoses coming out of it. It sits right next to the coolant reservoir.) There is a larger hose that connects to one of the turbo pipes, but then there are 2 smaller hoses on top. The both connect up to lines close to the wastegate on the front turbo. I pulled both of them off w/o realizing which goes where. Can anyone clue me in? Could this cause a serious problem? Thanks.
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Hooking up the hoses wrong wouldn't cause that. Where did you get the turbo's, and were they used? It sounds like one of the turbo's is shot.
They are the 13Ks from w3sa.com...both were very tight. Can anyone tell me which hose goes where and could my assumptions be right? Or am I SCREWED!
A few more details on the smoke... It started a few minutes after i started it up for the first time. It started coming from the front turbo area (but seemed to be not directly coming from where the coolant/oil lines meet. It was a little more towards the drivers side, but still hard to tell). The smoke got steadily worse, then seemed to simmer off. About that time, the rear started smoking, and a little later in between the intake plenum and valve cover. Most of the smoke now seems to come from the rear turbo area. Again, it doesnt smell like oil, and some more knowledgeable people than myself said it smelled like coolant with maybe a little oil.

I overflowed a lot of coolant when i was filling it. I spilled most of it around the cap near the y-pipe. Im praying that it ran down some of the coolant lines towards the front and rear. Sounds like a plan?
$hit I have no words to help you out except this to make you feel better ( i have no knowledge on this yet).

Hey, its probably nothing except some coolant that you spilled!...

Feel better?

No..? well good luck bro! someone else help him out! A good idea would be to take pics for everyone to see tommorow.
G
My friend's Eclipse GST did the same thing when he did turbo
upgrade.The mechanic told me that it is very COMMON for upgraded turbo cars to have smoke for the first time after the
turbo is installed.It's normal.

In his case,he let the engine idles for about 30 minutes,and
make sure you have good and fresh oil in the engine.The smoke
should disappear as your turbos start to break in.

So,my advice is to let your engine idles for a while,and don't
drive too hard.Once your turbos break in,you can push them to
the limit.

Well,I hope that's the case.Good luck...!:cool:
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The top line on the purge control valve should have a red stripe on it ,the next one down is solid black and then the big line to the intake tract. I don't see how having them wrong could cause a major problem but..................
Riskeavr4- I believe both of my hoses are black. Can you tell me which hose connects to which metal line? Like i said, they are right next to eachother, i just need to know which goes where.

Or can anybody else take a quick peak under their hood for me? C'mon guys, this stuff is keeping me from sleeping!
Of the three metal lines: left is turbo wastegate,center(red stripe on my car) goes to the top of the purge control valve, right to the lower fitting on the purge valve.
Awesome, thanks man. Now i just have to solve my pesky check engine light problem...Andrew Caple's FAQ; here i come!
Yeah, crap always burns off when you replace a turbo. Usually it's grease that got on the manifold that's burning off. It can be WD40 that was used during disassembly, etc.
A lot of places put that graphite crap on parts and it will cause some smoke and make a bad smell. But if you are saying that you have oil coming out of your BOV that is a big problem! Now if you were to have a little bit of oil on say your manifold it would smoke for quite some time, where as coolant would burn off faster. Now when you installed the oil line to the rear turbo did you push the line down and screwed in the b nut, or did you just tighten the nut? The proper way to install lines like this is to push the line and tighten the nut. If not you run a chance of having a leak.
Curt93, you hit the nail on the head. I found a little bit of oil leaking from that large nut that goes on the rear turbo. I took off the feed line and tightened it down as much as i could. I am weary because i broke off my forward oil feed bolt. That was ugly. Anyways, i tightened everything back and now i think the feed line isnt tight enough. Argh.

I found out what my check engine light was. Its #13: the Intake Air Temp. Sensor...or otherwise known as the MAS harness. If i did everything right on the test, i think i might have to replace the harness (and maybe all the wiring included). This is puzzling because i didnt come anywhere near the MAS wiring during the swap! At least i dont think i did!
Now when you say front oil feed bolt do you mean the eye bolt that goes into the turbo? If you are just talking the bolt the line should not have gotten shorter. Also, with the piece that goes into the rear turbo as well as the oil feed b-nut did you put some teflon tape on it?
I broke the forward eye bolt, but that is not the one you were referring to. I brought it up because i have become really cautious about torquing down hard on some of that stuff. That one incident really ruined my day.

But i know which one you are talking about. Tomorrow i am going to go out and push down on that oil feed line and re-tighten it down a little better. That big nut that the oil line goes into- is it supposed to have teflon? That sounds like a good idea. If so, wouldn't it be a good idea to put teflon on both bolts that feed the oil into that rear turbo?
Oh, i gotta another HUGE question here! I am hearing the turbo "whir up, whir down" and i can here the turbine blades spinning. Now originally, i only heard this when my old turbos started going bad. Does anybody else hear there turbos like this or do i have some duds?
You can hear my turbos quite clearly since I removed the precats. I can hear them spin if I tap the gas from idle.
As far as the two oil lines on the rear turbo goes, yes put a little bit of tape on both. The only way that your front oil line is too short is that when you over torqued the eye bolt you twisted the line. Now when you installed the turbo's did you have to readjust the clamp that holds the housings together? I had to because the hinge was in the way of one of the cooling lines. I loosened up the clamp bolt and moved it around. Put the car back together and when I pushed the accelerator down I could actually hear the turbo's spool up and stop almost instantly. I disconnected the hoses going to the inlets of the turbo's and tried to spin them by hand and the rear one would barely move. There is a heat shield inside the turbo and it shifted when I moved the clamp. What I would do is take those hoses off and see if your wheels spin. If there is any resistance yank them back out. Also, the oil feed lines are only 12ft/lbs(front) 14ft/lbs(rear).
Yeah, i had to mess with that clamp. Did you just re-tighten that clamp and everything was fine? I can reach the clamp but i am running out of time to really mess with it too much. I have a trip im taking next weekend and i gotta figure this stuff out ASAP.
If you had to mess with the clamp then your turbo probably did the same as mine:(. Take the hoses off the mounts to the inlet of the turbo and see if you can spin the wheel, if nothings wrong it will spin freely. But it sounds as though the wheel is grinding on the housing.
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