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Discussion Starter #102
If you plan to push some boost, I recommend a good front mount intercooler. IAT data from upgraded side mounts on a car I tune has not been positive.

Edit: I scrolled back and you want to Max out 16gs. Get a good FMIC, IMO.


Also, project is looking killer!!
Thanks Eric. I always appreciate your input. That’s very interesting. Do you mind sharing what side mounts you’re seeing this on? All good if you don’t. Do you know if the car you tune, is using the OEM ducting at all? If not, might be a reason for bad IATs?

I just purchased a set of Bob’s SMICs and his modified CX Racing pipes. This is to replace the IPS FMIC kit, I was previously running. I also just re-purchased all of the OEM plastic bumper ducting, to use with them and the radiator.

I actually have two main reasons for swapping back to SMICs:

The first reason is because I’m putting the A/C back in. My boys are now older and liked to go joy riding in it (prior to the tear down). We live in Florida and the last time we rode in it, the boys just baked like potatoes, in the back. lol. So the only request my wife has ever made with the car, was to put the A/C back in it.

From my FMIC experience, the car would eventually overheat at idle or in stop/go traffic, when using the A/C. If you’ve ever driven in Florida, even our interstates are stop/go. lol. In between the front IPS header/manifold heat soaking the radiator and the FMIC blocking airflow, it would overheat. Some fixes I tried were: ceramic coating the headers, making aluminum ducting for the FMIC, using Water Wetter, using a slightly lower t-stat and hot wiring my OEM fans, to improve air flow. But I still couldn’t keep the temps down. Without using A/C, it was perfectly fine and I didn’t have any overheating issues.

The second reason is, I also had the infamous FMIC BOV “surge”, when cruising or gradually coming into boost. I eventually added a balance tube, between the front and rear turbos intercooler piping. It did seem to help, but didn’t fully eliminate the issue. So that was super annoying problem, that I’m hoping to get ride of, with the SMICs.

I still have my IPS FMIC and was planning on selling it. I might just keep it now, just in case I see the same issue and revert back. I wish I would have kept my eManage logs, to see what my IATs used to be. Ah well..lol
 

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Brian has FMIC and A/C. If you wrap the exhaust, you can keep the FMIC. I always thought our OIL pump needs some porting at the outlet. Like how LS people do. If I kept my stock pump, I would have done that to mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Yes sir. I had thought about Brian and how his 3000GT was surviving the Florida heat. So I asked him and Kelly, who they used to shield the headers. Kelly provided me the contact info and I sent my IPS headers/turbos/O2 housings down to Advanced Thermal Products, to get the same treatment done. So I'm doing all I can, to keep the underhood temps and heat soaking under control. If the IPS FMIC didn't have surging, I'd still have that in the game plan. Since this is moving to more of a street car, I'm trying to get rid of those drivability issues. However, if IATs are too high, then I'll switch back to the IPS FMIC and deal with the surge issue. It will be a good test, to see how Bob's SMIC stack up.
 

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Yes sir. I had thought about Brian and how his 3000GT was surviving the Florida heat. So I asked him and Kelly, who they used to shield the headers. Kelly provided me the contact info and I sent my IPS headers/turbos/O2 housings down to Advanced Thermal Products, to get the same treatment done. So I'm doing all I can, to keep the underhood temps and heat soaking under control. If the IPS FMIC didn't have surging, I'd still have that in the game plan. Since this is moving to more of a street car, I'm trying to get rid of those drivability issues. However, if IATs are too high, then I'll switch back to the IPS FMIC and deal with the surge issue. It will be a good test, to see how Bob's SMIC stack up.
How much did that set you back if you don't mind me asking? I've noticed heat problems creeping up with my FMIC and I'm looking for solutions myself because the AC is staying.
 

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How much did that set you back if you don't mind me asking? I've noticed heat problems creeping up with my FMIC and I'm looking for solutions myself because the AC is staying.
He actually answers that on page two heh:

For everything in the picture, it was around $2k. It sounds expensive just for shielding and it is. But this is the best solution and I will no longer have to worry about it. ATP really does an excellent job and I have no idea how they conform this stuff to fit. It looks like aluminum foil but it's way thicker (like 1/16").

This was really the only option left for me. I don't like header wrap, as it's ugly and can soak up oil and be a potential source of engine fires. I previously tried my hand at creating aluminum shields. There weren't enough mounting points and I just couldn't find a way, to encase the whole manifold/turbo/o2 housing.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, my main issue was with the front turbo setup, heat soaking the radiator, radiator pipe, alternator and A/C compressor. So I'm pretty sure I could have gotten away with just doing the front setup, which would have been half the cost. But if I didn't do the rear turbo setup, I probably would've regretted it down the line.
-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Yes sir. I had thought about Brian and how his 3000GT was surviving the Florida heat. So I asked him and Kelly, who they used to shield the headers. Kelly provided me the contact info and I sent my IPS headers/turbos/O2 housings down to Advanced Thermal Products, to get the same treatment done. So I'm doing all I can, to keep the underhood temps and heat soaking under control. If the IPS FMIC didn't have surging, I'd still have that in the game plan. Since this is moving to more of a street car, I'm trying to get rid of those drivability issues. However, if IATs are too high, then I'll switch back to the IPS FMIC and deal with the surge issue. It will be a good test, to see how Bob's SMIC stack up.
IMO if you run e85, you will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
IMO if you run e85, you will be fine.
Cool. I do plan on running Flex Fuel but I'm sure the majority will be E85. Unfortunately, the closest E85 gas station to me, is in Daytona (~45 minutes away). So there might be some days where I need to throw in some 93. Luckily, I do have a ton of gas cans, due to hurricane season. So once the car is ready, I'm sure I'll be making some trips in the truck, to fill them up. The other option is grabbing some One Ethanol "R" from Real Street Performance. They are pretty close by and could always pick some of that up. But it's currently $12 a gallon for the "R" and $9 a gallon for the "S". 😬
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
Made a few more tiny strides, on the car:

Mounted a new A/C condenser. Good fitment. Purchased at Rockauto. This should make the wife and kids happy. lol




Received the Setrab 592SLM-10 oil cooler, I ordered earlier this month. Oil cooler is going to be mounted in front, just like Unlogic's setup (thanks again for the suggestion dude). Also received Earl's AN fittings & hose, for both the oil cooler and radiator. Got some additional AEM temp sensors and plan to monitor before and after temps (because I'm a nerd). Also ordered and installed the Earl's 991966ERL A/N "quick-disconnect" fittings, for the AEM Flex Fuel sensor. Do yourself a favor and don't use ever those fittings, on that sensor. Once installed, you're not getting them back off. The "quick disconnect" tools have no clearance to get in there. I tried for 2 hours and it ain't coming off. I'd have to take a hacksaw the sensor tubes first. So I'm praying they'll never leak. lol.




Got the driver's side Megan coilover all cleaned up, from the painter's overspray. Also, got the driver's side control arm bushings installed, mounted on the car, rotors and calipers mocked up and finally picked up off the garage floor.




Got the Mishimoto radiator back from Bob and test fitted. Also wanted it out of the way in the garage. I picked up polishing buffer a few weeks ago and put it to work, on the top the radiator. It's shiny now vs the brushed aluminum. Also gotta figure out what I'm doing with the 3SX radiator brackets. I might polish them as well or powder coat them black. The silver looks a little weird.




All in all, I'm still slowly chipping away at everything. Tomorrow, I pick up the rest of the engine brackets, from the powdercoater. Then I can finish the re-assembly of the engine. Engine tasks I still have to do are:
  1. Install all the brackets and shields.
  2. Remove the baffles from the valve covers and clean those out.
  3. Port and polish the lower intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
I've been working on getting the Setrab front mount oil cooler mounted, the past few days. I think I finally got it completed. I followed Unlogic's installation but had to tweak it a bit. I mounted it up a higher, as I'm going to be using the OEM plastic radiator ducting. Where the bottom of the cooler sits now, is where the bottom of plastic OEM ducting is. I actually wasn't expecting the OEM ducting to come up that high. I tried to fit it lower, just like Unlogic install. But cooler's AN fittings would have hit the duct brackets and when I put the ducting on, only the top 3 rows would have been adequately cooled.

Either way, went over to Home Depot and picked up some aluminum angle and flat stock, then went to work. Trimmed up the angle stock, with a router and Diablo flush trim bit (to improve air flow). I really wish I had a mill for this but it the router/router table did the job. I made the l-brackets by measuring, cutting and bending the flat stock in a vise. I still have to plumb the power steering cooler in there some how. It then got painted with some Rust-Oleum bed liner and voila:

 

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Looning good!

Which front spoiler will you be running?

I'm using a 99 frontend with a gen 2 eurospec plastic radiator ducting. That setup allows me to mount the oil cooler very low and still be covered by the duct.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Thanks man!

I'm just running a 1st gen Stealth R/T bumper w/ the OEM ducting. Nothing too crazy/fancy. But that makes a lot more sense, why you were able to mount it lower. When I was test fitting everything, I was scratching my head on why you were able to mount it that low. lol. I then just assumed that you might not be running a duct. I'm sure that 99 front end/duct, allows for a much better breathing ability than my bumper!
 

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Which condenser is that from rock auto, and does it have the normal 1g bolt style connectors?
 

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This one was the APDI/PRO 7014310. I'll snap a quick pic for you of the connectors.
It'd be much appreciated. My current condenser core is pretty nasty looking and thus blocking airflow to my radiator. Gonna try cleaning it first before I replace it, because I don't wanna lose my R12, that stuff is like $60 a can for the legit stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
It'd be much appreciated. My current condenser core is pretty nasty looking and thus blocking airflow to my radiator. Gonna try cleaning it first before I replace it, because I don't wanna lose my R12, that stuff is like $60 a can for the legit stuff.

Here's a pic of the connectors. Hope this helps. They still have the plugs installed:

 

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Discussion Starter #119
I just finished removing/cleaning/re-tapping the baffles from the valve covers last night. It was a pretty straight forward job, made easier by Alan's write-up. It just took a while getting all that crap out of there, with a wire brush. Thanks again Alan, for typing this up!

How To: R&R Valve Cover Baffles for Cleaning

BTW, I made the same mistake and accidentally drilled through the valve cover, in the exact same place!!! It was super thin in that area and the pilot drill punched through that spot, like a piece of paper. There were a few explicits, that came out of my mouth. I read the write up before hand, so I knew what to look for and it still happened. Ah well. I took the same approach and just applied JB weld to the hole and I'm sure it will be fine.

I didn't take any before pictures but the covers looked pretty similar to Alan's, with the front cover being significantly more nasty. The only thing I did extra, was I also RTV'd the baffles back in with "The Right Stuff". I used the same bolts, Irwin tap and red Loctite, that Alan suggested.

Some quick after pictures:

Without baffles:


With baffles not bolted down:
 

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Awesome! 🤣😂 I lost it at "explicits" lmfaooooo 😆

For me, it is always "ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!" sprinkled and seasoned with choice words LOL!

Everything looks amazing so far. Are you shooting for a certain date-ish of completion, or are you just going with the flow at a convenient and relaxing pace?

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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