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Discussion Starter · #321 ·
Haha, if I could fit those bad boys under my car, I’d might consider them. lol. Not sure my stock motor would make good use of them either. That’s a lot of meat. lol. But she’s looking bad ass Eric! Yeah, it’s crazy that these cars are retro. This kind of hurts to say, but I’ve had the red car for almost 20 years now.
 

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Almost 20?
Hell, mine hit the 20 yr. mark a couple of months ago :)

Bob.
 
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Hey guys,

Thanks for the suggestions. Those Radius R6 look pretty nice. Pretty close to the OEM 2nd gen wheels. I'll start looking into those, to see what I can find.



Hey Bob,

You actually did refer me to this website before and I completely forgot about it. They'll be on my list to reach out to. Thanks for reminding me.


I haven't gotten much done on the cars lately, as I've been doing chores around the house. We has a nasty storm a while back and lightning zapped a pine tree in my yard. I've lived in Florida all my life and I've never heard a lightning/thunder clap like that. It hit the tree so hard, there were pieces of wood everywhere. Unfortunately, it came through our cable line and fried about $2000 worth of electronics and cables. One of my ethernet switches literally was smoking. The strike blew up a couple of my external security cameras. So I spent the last week, running new ethernet cables through the attic and installing a brand new system. Glad that project is done, as it's getting blazing hot in that attic. So this weekend, I plan on getting more work done on the red car. Got an early Christmas present today:



These are the Superpro swaybars. The Superpro rear swaybar is on top, with the Superpro front swaybar in the middle. The front OEM swaybar, is on the bottom. The Superpro front is definitely thicker all around, especially around the ends. I'll be installing the front tomorrow and definitely looking forward to seeing how they perform.
I installed my front Superpro sway bar today and I noticed that if you run a lower ride height like I do then make sure to pull the sway bar down as much as you can when you mount it. Otherwise it will hit the steering rack. I'm gonna use an allen head bolt in the lower hole of the mounts in order to able to mount the swaybar as low as possible.

293686



293687
293688
 

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Like the swaybars. I really wanted to get on those, but really wasn't up for tearing into the car again. That and my back would hate me for sure.
I was just thinking the other day, I've had my 92 for 18 years now!o_O
 

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Discussion Starter · #325 ·
I installed my front Superpro sway bar today and I noticed that if you run a lower ride height like I do then make sure to pull the sway bar down as much as you can when you mount it. Otherwise it will hit the steering rack. I'm gonna use an allen head bolt in the lower hole of the mounts in order to able to mount the swaybar as low as possible.
Awesome. Thanks for the heads up. I have mine slid under the car and will be installing it today. I think I have a few 10.9 allen bolts left over. So they might be put to a good use, as long as they are the correct size/thread. Gotta jump under there and see.



Like the swaybars. I really wanted to get on those, but really wasn't up for tearing into the car again. That and my back would hate me for sure.
I was just thinking the other day, I've had my 92 for 18 years now!o_O
Yeah, I jumped on them as I wasn't sure how "available" they'd be in the future. Since my OEM swaybar is already out and actually sitting right next to me, figured now is the best time to do it. lol. I probably would've held off, if the car was already put together. That's awesome! Glad to see us old timers still holding on these cars.



On another note, I'm looking at a set of these wheels for the blue car. Someone has them for sale on Facebook and seem to be a good deal. They are a set of CCW SP505, that I think look nice. Opinions? Owner claims they came off a 3000gt, but he wasn't sure if it was a VR4 or N/A. The specs are below. Anyone smart wheel guy know if these would clear a 1st gen brake caliper and if the wheels would poke out or sit flush? A 10" wheel up front, seems like it would be too wide IMO, but I'm not 100% sure on these things. Gotta figure out how to calculate this crap. lol

19x10 +38
5x114.3
Center bore 2.5"
Backspacing 7"

 

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Your best friend for offset questions:
The spoke design sure looks like it should clear if the calculator looks good for other things.

 

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Discussion Starter · #328 ·
The bolts for the swaybar are M10x1,25 same thread as on the exhaust side of turbos.
Ah lame. Gotta order those. lol. In a pinch, our local ACE Hardware has a good selection of allen bolts and would just grab a few from them. But if memory serves me correctly, I think they only had 10x1.5 and not the "fine" 1.25 thread. I'll try to at least get it mounted and out of the way for now.



Your best friend for offset questions:
The spoke design sure looks like it should clear if the calculator looks good for other things.

Thank you sir. I'll check that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #329 ·
Got the front Superpro swaybar installed. I didn't have any issues with fitment. Getting the top bolts threaded, was my struggle. I must have fat hands. lol



Pic of clearance, with the power steering rack
 

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Have you checked how much you can move the sway bar up and down before it hit's the steering rack?

If I move mine upwards 1 cm at the wheels (that's with the car on the lift) it hit's the steering rack. That's not going to work for me at least as the sway bar will press against the steering column as soon as I lower the car onto it's wheels.

 

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Discussion Starter · #331 ·
This weekend was productive. I got the rest of the A/C lines polished and installed. Also finished re-looming the OEM harness, as it was crumbling into bits. Also inspected any wires or wiring that were damaged and repaired them. Overall, the wiring harness looks pretty good for being 28 years old. All tidy'd up and zip-tied back.



Then came the fun part. As much as it pains me to see it off the engine stand, it's time for it to go home....lol




The eagle has landed:




Home sweet home. I'm running Seattle motor mounts. The front and the rear were spot on but the driver's side required some "finesse" (i.e. a block of wood and a sledge hammer). But it's good to go now. Might be a bitch to get off, if I have to pull it for timing belt changes. But I'll cross that road when I get there.




I already have a few things I have to correct. The suction A/C line, that runs across the back of the firewall won't install, due clearance issues with the rear Kinugawa wastegate. I had the wastegate adjusted perfectly on the stand. I honestly didn't think it was going to be that close to the rear firewall. Luckily, the wastegate is adjustable. I just don't know how far up I can adjust it, w/o it binding. I'll have to play around with it.




I then went to hook up the A/C lines to the compressor and quickly realized something ain't right. lol. I apparently purchased A/C lines from a 2nd gen. facepalm. So, I either have to look at getting a 2nd gen A/C compressor/bracket or find a set of 1st gen lines and then re-polish them. Not a huge deal but a PITA, nonetheless. Honestly, might not be a bad idea to go 2nd gen, as 1st gen compressors are hard to find. I personally don't know if the one I have in there now, is any good. I purchased it about 10 years ago from Autozone and never used it. Of course it's remanufactured, but I have heard that these black painted compressors, don't last very long.

The last issue I ran into was with my RPS flywheel. I decided that if I couldn't sell the RPS C/C clutch, I was just going to run it. I got a few hits on buyers, but nothing materialized. So I'm just gonna run it and if it gives me any issues, I'll eventually go with a Clutchmaster 850 strapped. Anyways, I tried bolting the chromoly flywheel up and it was about 3mm loose. WTF, so I bolted an RPS aluminum flywheel up and it was fine. Apparently, the OEM bolts were bottoming out before it was able to clamp the flywheel down. So obviously, this C/C flywheel needs shorter bolts. I ended up searching around for M10x1.0 flywheel bolts and luckily, ARP sells them in the exact size this flywheel will need. I had to order two sets of ARP 206-2803, since they only came in sets of 6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #333 ·
I literally just - today was trash day - JUST threw away my 1G AC lines. Damn!

Everything else looks awesome!
Ah, son of gun. lol. Day late and a dollar short. Thanks for thinking of me though. lol. I’ll ask around on Facebook or search on eBay, to see if any one has some for sale. I wouldn’t mind trying to run this compressor, as it’s “ready to go”.
 

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That sucks lol. I actually have an entire 2G A/C setup here that is fully polished (even the compressor!) from someone's show and go build. It is unlikely that I will ever use them, but I have not decided on selling yet.

Interestingly, I had a similar conversation with Chris (Rvenge) two years ago regarding FW bolts when checking between my SPEC and RPS. I did not want to wait for an M10x1.0 set to chase threads through, so I tested grade 8 zinc washers and scoped their clearance - still holding up well heh.


Plenty of room from disc

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Discussion Starter · #336 ·
That sucks lol. I actually have an entire 2G A/C setup here that is fully polished (even the compressor!) from someone's show and go build. It is unlikely that I will ever use them, but I have not decided on selling yet.

Interestingly, I had a similar conversation with Chris (Rvenge) two years ago regarding FW bolts when checking between my SPEC and RPS. I did not want to wait for an M10x1.0 set to chase threads through, so I tested grade 8 zinc washers and scoped their clearance - still holding up well heh.

Plenty of room from disc

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
If you're interested in selling, definitely hit me up. I have to do some reading, to see what's involved in the 2nd conversion. I know the connectors are different, along w/ the front lines, bracket and compressor of course. Just not sure if anything else is.

As for the bolts, I was super tempted to just run down to ACE and pick up some 10.9 bolts for this. The clearance was really my biggest concern and the ARPs looked like they were stock (minus being shorter length wise and using a 12 point head). But glad to see grade 8 bolts work and thanks for the pic. I know you definitely have put them through their paces, as l've seen some of your videos..lol. The ARPs should be here Friday and then I can get the clutch and transmission installed and move a long. Maybe by this weekend, I can actually have the car on the ground and rolling around. lol. I still gotta refresh these front half-shafts though. I heard raxles.com rebuilt our axles and I just called them up and nope. lol.



As if this thing is even going to accumulate 60k and any reasonable timeframe, lol.
Bwahahahahaha.....you speak the truth. Maybe I should call it a 5 year tune up, or however long a timing belt is supposed to last for?
 

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Whoa, whoa, whoa.....

I just NOW noticed that back hatch!

You have a VR4 hatch? Do you have working active aero?

You damned kids have all the toys (engine hoists, HUGE tool cabinets.....)

Bob. :)
 

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Oh, and what's with the GREEN tape on some connections? CHECK ME before starting? lol

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #339 ·
Whoa, whoa, whoa.....

I just NOW noticed that back hatch!

You have a VR4 hatch? Do you have working active aero?

You damned kids have all the toys (engine hoists, HUGE tool cabinets.....)

Bob. :)
Haha, yes sir. AA works but it's on a manual DPDT (double pole/double throw) switch. I had plans on hooking it up to an Arduino/speed sensor, to make my own makeshift AA controller. But I just haven't had time to dive more into it. So on a switch it stays, for the time being. lol

Yeah, I didn't realize when I got into the 3/S game, that I'd be investing so much into tooling. At this point, I could honestly open my own shop. lol.

Oh, and what's with the GREEN tape on some connections? CHECK ME before starting? lol

Bob.
That's exactly what it is. haha. Bolts and connections that I have to tighten or torque down.
 

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Haha it was just the washers - still OE bolts. There was a similar question asked recently:


What exactly needs rebuilt? New bearing for DS half shaft to axle? New grease and boots? I am fairly certain that the same boot kit and PN's for the rear also work for the front (similar process since you did 300M too)

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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