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Discussion Starter #181
Yeah, I'm not in love w/ the front return at all. lol. I've had it run in the front, since I first purchased the IPS kit. I might have had it wrong, all these years. haha. I'd love to see a pic of how you ran yours. I just tried aiming the 90* fitting towards the back of the motor and it doesn't fit so well. lol. I have a ton of picture of various car builds, throughout the years. So I'm browsing through those, to get some ideas.

I'd love to have a neuralizer. lol. But as of right now, what has been seen, can not be unseen. lol
 

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I do not blame you at all lol. TBH, it almost looks like the line for the rear. I want to say that IPS revised the set at some point; mine were brand new and can be seen here, as requested.

http://instagr.am/p/ByriGORg5Lu/




Hopefully this helps! (I also have archived folders of various builds haha 😄 but who does not?!)

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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Discussion Starter #183
Thanks a lot for the pics. That is very interesting! In your pics, it looks like you have an upward slope, where the oil could "pool". I've always read that you're supposed to always have a downward slope, as it's gravity fed. You don't burn any oil or have oil in your intake pipes?

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I had the first version of the IPS return lines. I'll have to check, but I believe I still have them in a box somewhere. I just copied their design and made them a bit longer, as it was touching my O2 house and the line was starting to burn.
 

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That is correct, and it did originally bother me. It is very slight though. Fortunately, the lines are large, and it is mostly downward from the front. Both lines, IMO, are just a hair too long lol 😆 guessing they overshot from your "version"

No oil-related issues here as far as I can tell. Just this past weekend, I took a friend for a ride to include first through third, third, and a couple of stationary rev limits all back-to-back. I always feel bad about the abuse and look over things afterward haha 😅

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Discussion Starter #186
That is correct, and it did originally bother me. It is very slight though. Fortunately, the lines are large, and it is mostly downward from the front. Both lines, IMO, are just a hair too long lol 😆 guessing they overshot from your "version"

No oil-related issues here as far as I can tell. Just this past weekend, I took a friend for a ride to include first through third, third, and a couple of stationary rev limits all back-to-back. I always feel bad about the abuse and look over things afterward haha 😅

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That's why I replaced my set, as I wanted just the right length. But I digress. The way your hose is run, is kind of blowing my mind here. lol. I'm surprised, that IPS would have it hooked up that way. I'm scratching my head and wondering how that is working, w/o backing up. I know the turbo sits above it and gravity will push it down, like the pee trap B-Line mentions. I guess I thought it had to be free flowing, or your turbo would self destruct with oil spewing out the seals. I do have a few -10 AN adapters (straight/30*/45* and a 90*). So, I'm trying to play around with different configurations but none are great at the moment. Nevertheless, that's awesome that you aren't having any issues with that. I'll build one like it and test it out. lol.

I've also seen/heard of some people lowering the return on the pan, to get that fitting lower. I just don't feel like pulling off my pan, getting it welded on, then having to repaint it. Maybe I'm just over thinking this. lol



Looks like your front oil return line is a bit too long and creates a low point, like a pee trap.


Great build though and lots of quality parts used I see!

Was this regarding my picture or Alan's? I think Alan's looks more like a pee trap. haha. But yeah, my hose isn't any better. So I'll throw out the question, does the length of the return hose matter? lol. I noticed a both you and Alan mentioned it and wasn't sure why it mattered, (as long as it feeds back into the pan w/o any blockage).

And thanks man. Trying to do it right. Unfortunately, I know this is only half the work. After I drop the motor in, still gotta wire it all up, then find a tuner and work out all those kinks. lol. Luckily, I just happen to know two great tuners on this board, that might be interested. cough Alan or Eric cough. lol

Thanks again guys!
 

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Length isn't as much as an issue as the low bend it creates. It has the potential to create a restriction and will slow down the return flow. How much? I don't know, but if its easy enough to access and change now I would do it.
 

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I 100% agree with changing things for the better, however, I side more with the inconvenience like you, Richie lmao. FWIW though, I have 234 hard ass miles (as of today) on my build with the lines, and you have seen my posted Blackstone UOA reports. New MHI have been solid over the other set that was rebuilt once.

Haha it goes without saying that either of us would totally be down to be involved with your build 🙂

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If you can at all, I would definitely shorten the oil return line and try to avoid a dip. -10AN is pretty big and a TD05 won't flow as much as a T4 or T6 for sure but I still like having good drains. I had some low profile 90 -10AN drain flanges but can't seem to find them. I think when I had a DR T3 setup I used an NPT drain flange with a 90 NPT to -10AN fitting and it turned quicker than a regular drain flange with a 90 degree AN fitting. You're kind of losing some height with that current AN fitting. I feel like if you could get that exit line a little higher you can go over the motor mount bracket and to the stock drain hole in the pan without any issues. All of the big turbo DR kits you had to move the drain another 1.5" lower in the pan which was not that bad.
 

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Well this thread sure is relevant to my interests.

Why'd you go with solid lifters? What clutch are you going to use?

Hopefully some of my meandering thoughts that follow are helpful or at least mildly amusing. I've got the same engine, cam gears, cams, oil pump gears, fluidamper, etc waiting for me to start the build. I got the AEM S2 w/ E85 and 1200cc injectors on my original engine to try to learn any hard lessons on it. Eric remote tuned it for low boost a while back. He's awesome, obviously.

It recently started stalling after spirited driving (it restarts but that pucker-up moment at the stop light is a treat...) and last drive it just slammed into a wall going way lean when I got into boost. Of course I wasn't logging. I suspect it's an AFPR issue but TBD.

Ordered a flex fuel kit for it because I desperately need 93 octane back in my life to keep the fuel system clean. E85 clogging injectors is very real and annoying AF. My injectors were super clogged and corroded after the few months it took to go from piggybacks to AEM. I used batteries and WD40 to get them to hack out gnarly loogies to get it to start before sending the injectors out for cleaning.

I've promised myself that when my build happens, if I reuse my DR TD05 kit, I'll hang studs from the O2 housing so reinstalling my 4" DP isn't such a big bag of dicks.

I'm also a believer that you want a steady downward return line. It being a little long shouldn't be a problem. Alan's working seems like a miracle, or at least not something I would roll the dice with given the choice. Also Alan! Based on your Sig your car must be flying right now!

I'm amazed that you're reinstalling your AC. I love the thought of it, but that cat is so far out of the bag on my car that it died of old age years ago.

Your interior, with all the gauges, has long been the best in the 3S world. That gaming rig you built is just ridiculously badass. You might not be able to TIG weld yet, but you're a gifted craftsman.
 

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Daaang! We have been blessed with Sir Adam's presence 😁 (NO sarcasm lol)

You will find me here since I have nothing worth posting in my own thread lmao 🤣 but thanks! Just trying to meet or beat yours and Trevor's old numbers 😅 silly I know... she definitely scoots though!

Gnarly story of yours too. Are you sticking with the 1200's long-term? New and modest 1440? 1650?

I had to use/insert the "motivational poster" of your car at the beginning of this year hahaha:
290220


-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Discussion Starter #192
Thanks all for the oil return line recommendations. I'll play around with it, to see if I can get something I'm comfortable with. I'm trying to locate some lower profile 90* fittings. I've have seen some low profiles fittings, that are a sharp 90* turn, instead of a gradual turn. But I'm staying away from those.



Adam,

Awesome to see that you're still around. You're one of the legends in my book. lol. But it's great to hear you're getting back into building your VR4. I think we'd all love to see you make a build thread on it. I know updating this thread, helps motivate me to keep moving. Wanted to respond and apologize for being a little wordy.

I'm actually using hydraulic lifters. I just had to use a single solid lifter temporarily, in order to degree the cams. You use the solid, as you don't want any lash or very little preload (0.005) on the rocker/valve, when doing the degree measurements. So I believe that's the picture you were referring to.

As for the clutch, I've had a few thoughts. I have a Spec 4+ that has a lot of life left in it. I only used it for 5k miles and looks to be in good shape. So I was going to burn through that. So I put new RPS C/C up for sale. However, it's not getting many hits. If it doesn't sell within the next month or so, it's going on the car. lol. If it fails prematurely, like the previous C/C revisions, then I plan on switching to a CM 850 strapped. Chris @ Rvenge is having really good reviews on his. So it looks promising.

But what kind of fuel setup are you running these days? I know you're running E85. So I'm wondering if a fuel pump or fuel filter could be clogged/failing and that could be causing your issues? Since you mentioned your injector were clogged, I'd be looking at those. If it's an AEM tuning issue, both Alan and Eric are AEM masters these days.

As for your injectors, thanks for that info. I'm using ID1300x, which uses stainless steel internals and is more "designed" for ethanol. So I'm hoping that these are more resistant to corrosion. But I'm also going FlexFuel as well. I plan on occasionally running pump gas, when I can't make the 30 mile ride out, to my closet E85 station.

I haven't had the luxury of installing a DR kit. What's the difficulty in installing the downpipe? Just a space issue with the rear subframe, manifold and downpipe?

A/C is now a mandatory. lol. When I was in my 20s, I didn't mind as much. But I'm getting old and I no longer enjoy driving around with swamp butt. I have a family now and they are in the same boat. haha

Thanks for those comments. That really means a lot! I will learn to TIG weld before I die. lol. It's something I want to learn but I just didn't need a whole lot of welding work, to be done on this particular build. So I spent that welder money, on other items.

I do struggle with replacing the Nexus gauges, as I really enjoy them. However, they are getting swapped out with an AEM setup (AEM CD7, dual AEM W/B gauges and an AEM CANBUS gauge). Gotta reclaim my A/C vents back...lol. Chris @ Rvenge has the exact same setup, that I'm going to be running. Funny enough, I actually purchased the combo before he did last year. But since I'm going at snails pace, he got them installed and hooked up first. Which I'm glad as I might be hitting him up here shortly. His install also looks fantastic.

@bboyalan, really digging your Instagram page. Lots of good stuff in there. Thumbs up!

-Richie
 

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:LOL: Alan ... Mine's currently slow and fighting me but I can't stay mad at her.

The car was tuned on my old parallel walbro 255 setup. When i sent the DW1200cc injectors to be cleaned i also had DW inspect the pumps. One was a little sketchy, so I simplified things with a walbro 525. I think this setup will support 10 second passes before I retire the OG block.

Went for a drive yesterday, intent on logging the stalling issue and filling up on E85. Made sure to start the logger before I left and once hot, the car stalled as I approached a stop sign. Of course it wouldn't restart until I dialed AAA's #. During that butt puckering few minutes, i moved the key to the off position so I lost the log. Got to the E85 pump to discover it was out of service, lol. On the way home I did at least manage to see FP dropping as boost rose.
 

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Hahaha see now it feels like old 3Si days again 😁

Richie - The red '95 that I have been upgrading/tuning has a CM850 street, and the pedal effort is noticeably more than SPEC 4+ (LW and standard). It is manageable and grabby AF, but I figured it is worth mentioning here if that factor concerned you as mentioned in your FS thread. Definitely has a small window for slipping though compared to the race version (more on/off as described by Dmitri)

Adam - dang lol. Maybe you should set up internal logging so that you can just download it after the drive. You can always put a KB BAP on the 525 if you want to get by even longer than planned.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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RE: Front Oil Return
I have the IPS kit too, but it didnt come with returns. I pissed with the front forever. I ended up cutting a stock front drain (turbo side) and used a flapper wheel to create a barb. Was really easy. Then used a gates hose (red one) to go to pan. Cant remember pan fitting, but it was 10an barb I think. I did have to notch motor mount bracket, but it works great and was cheap/easy after all the initial fuss. If you want I can see if I have pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
I'd love to see some pics. I've been pissing around with this and am not finding a setup I'm completely happy with, with the Earls hose/fittings.
 

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As I recall, Chris "Mellon" did similarly to Aaron's approach, but he ended up cutting both return lines with a braided line segment in between them.

Nowadays, you can probably just buy one of the gillion DSM TD05 options and tweak it to work for your car lol.
 

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The issue is the low return angle in front. No standard fittings work. The stock return is perfect for it, and even has a built in heat shield. Here's what I did, and the hose I used. I did have to notch motor mount to the point I welded back in a piece to add strength back to it. It's worked great. IIRC, I used the other (pan) side of the stock line as well because the hose was a very tight fit. Just leave plenty of length on it.

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I had to do something similar to get the front to clear the motor mount bracket, still not completely happy with it, its on the todo list this winter when I install your stage 3 heads

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Discussion Starter #200
Thanks for the pics @Drweldin. I think that's exactly the piece that I need. I might grab one of those and see if it will fit around the IPS kit. Ideally, it would be nice to have an -10 AN fitting welded on. But I guess that would depend on the sizing and thickness.

@Chris @ Rvenge Performance, glad to hear this plagues us all. lol. Misery loves company. I actually thought you were running those heads already. lol Are you just running stock ones right now? Your car is a beast already and will be awesome to see it go up from here. Also, sorry to hear about your rear bumper. That really sucks man! Did you find a replacement yet?
 
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